Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Engine Fails To Crank
|Author||Topic: Engine Fails To Crank|
posted 08-17-2005 09:11 PM ET (US)
Hello all, here's my story. I was out enjoying the day on the water. had been running my 1971 Evinrude 50 hp throughout the day and all was well. I docked and went to get the trailer...came back to load the boat and it wont start. I got the boat home, charged the battery, checked fuel and still wont start. I turned the ignition and heard a noise similar to a loose connection but did't find anything. The boat will not start at all. I bypassed the solenoid to the starter and it will turn over. Is it common for the starter solenoid to go that quickly?
any help would be appreciated.
posted 08-17-2005 09:25 PM ET (US)
By "not starting" do you mean that it will not crank?
They do just decide to stop working, just like any other electrical component.
There is a recent thread in this section on toubleshooting solenoid problems posted by Buckda.
posted 08-17-2005 09:29 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply, I will look for that posting. When I say wont start I mean it will not crank. It is just as if there is no power to the motor at all.
posted 08-18-2005 07:43 AM ET (US)
Two quick thoughts:
Is it in gear when you turn the key? Adjust the position of the throttle.
Is the starter gear caught in the flywheel? Take off the cover and look. Jiggle the flywheel back & forth.
posted 08-18-2005 08:32 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply Jim. The motor appears to be completely "normal" when I bypass the solenoid and connect the starter motor to a power source it will crank over. I think I have isolated the problem to the solenoid or the ignition. I have the three button (forward, neutral, reverse) Evinrude ignition. It is in neutral and the throttle is set to start.
posted 08-18-2005 10:51 PM ET (US)
Try jumpering to the lead on the solenoid that would normally energize via the key when you switch the key to "start". (or check it with a volt meter). It technically is possible to have the solenoid go, but with electric shift there are probably more electrical connections in the control box than most people here are used to. I'm young, but I have heard my father's stories about electric shift from "back in the day".
posted 08-26-2005 08:36 PM ET (US)
A new solenoid costs about $30 or less. If you suspect it is the cause of your problem it is not unreasonable to replace it.
I recently replaced the solenoid on my 1992 OMC motor. Your motor is 21-years older. A new solenoid may help.
posted 05-03-2006 12:12 AM ET (US)
there is a fuse yo the right of ignition mod. in a water proof conecter had same prob. on my 71 50hp i changed out ignition switch and stoped blowing fuses. sorry i dint see youre post sooner
posted 05-04-2006 06:01 PM ET (US)
See that page for a similar problem and advice from others here...
posted 05-05-2006 07:09 AM ET (US)
If I remember correctly on those older motors, there was a switch that was activated by the spark advance lever which completed the ground circuit for the solenoid. Check the wire from one of the small solenoid posts to where it goes to the switch, and check the switch itself.
Start in gear protection was not a requirement back then and this switch limited the throttle advance so the motor would not start above a fast idle in case someone did not have it in neutral.
Check the switch for continuity to ground when the throttle is at idle or just above, and make sure it "opens" as the throttle is advanced. You can loosen the screws and move the switch slightly for adjustment.
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.