Recommendations for bullet-proof LED trailer lights?

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
  Recommendations for bullet-proof LED trailer lights?

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Recommendations for bullet-proof LED trailer lights?

sail16 posted 08-31-2005 08:52 AM ET (US)
I'm going to replace the square stud mount lights on my trailer with a new LED set. Among the various manufacturers, is there one that is considered the most durable?
Robob2003 posted 08-31-2005 10:36 AM ET (US)
Nothing electric likes water, especially saltwater:-(
I learned long ago that the best way to keep lights from being destroyed is to put them up high on the trailer guideposts where they will stay dry.

Bob on Tampa Bay
kingfish posted 08-31-2005 10:58 AM ET (US)
I don't disagree with Bob, though the advertising indicates that LEDs are hermetically sealed units that are submersible plugged in. I have all LEDs on my trailer, and have had for 3 or 4 years, and I have the full array down low (stop/turn/run, clearance and over 84" W lights), as well as stop/turn/run and clearance lights up on stalks. I started out with Piranhas when they were in the range of 40 or 50 bucks each, and have had to replace a couple of the combination lights from partial diode failure; when I bought replacements, I bought them at a local truck stop, and I can't recall the brand name but they were like 20 bucks each, and have operated as well as the remaining Piranhas. I understand Piranhas are less costly these days. I leave the lights plugged in and running when I drop and pick up the boat (they look pretty cool under water at night!)
John
jflots posted 08-31-2005 04:11 PM ET (US)
I found LED's in the Boater's world catalogue that are about 1 1/2"W x 15"L. I don't think they're water tight but they fit nicely, mounted vertically on a guide post. Keeps me from backing them into something. We're on our 2nd season with them on both boats, they work great.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v413/jflots/13%20Whaler_Tidbit/
Robob2003 posted 09-01-2005 02:06 PM ET (US)
jflots,
Nobody can say they can't see them from behind:-)
Good idea.
Bob on Tampa Bay
kingfish posted 09-01-2005 03:12 PM ET (US)
jflots-
I had looked at your photos earlier, but until I read robob's post, and went back and looked again, I didn't see the lights - they are really nice for guide posts! Are they combination tail/turn/brake?
John
where2 posted 09-01-2005 09:15 PM ET (US)
For additional longevity, wire all 3 wires to each (brake/tail) light rather than using the trailer frame for the ground wire. Use 2 conductor wire to each side marker light, and the over 80" clearance lights (if required).
I have had one "Road Warrior" LED light partially fill with water on a trailer that was NEVER dunked. The manufacturer happily replaced the light with a redesigned model. After receiving a light that looked completely different, I contacted them again, and they sent a replacement light for the opposite side of the trailer so the lights would match.
Not much complaint when the Mfg stands behind their product. No complaints after using 3 conductor wire to the brake/tail lights, and 2 conductor to the side marker lights.
TRAFFICLAWYER posted 09-02-2005 08:20 PM ET (US)
Whaler replaced the led lites on my new 15' with a set of WESBARS, which I installed, very nice!
devildog posted 09-10-2005 10:11 PM ET (US)
I'll agree with Bob: "Nothing electric likes water, especially saltwater."
I use a removable light bar. I mounted a set of trailer lights to a 6' length of perforated steel channel. I bungee it to the trailer and remove it before dunking so it never gets wet. After years of replacing trailer lights, this is much easier for me.
Jeff
swist posted 09-14-2005 08:26 AM ET (US)
Watch out for the complete LED trailer rewiring kits available at most boating/trailer places. It is an unusual experience in boating that you can't pay enough for something decent. I found that, while the light units themselves may have been sealed and of reasonable qaulity, the wiring, connectors, and other parts of the kits I looked at were pretty much crap.
You are better off buying the lights separately, and then using marine grade wiring and connectors.....

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Recommendations for bullet-proof LED trailer lights?
sail16	posted 08-31-2005 08:52 AM ET (US) I'm going to replace the square stud mount lights on my trailer with a new LED set. Among the various manufacturers, is there one that is considered the most durable?
Robob2003	posted 08-31-2005 10:36 AM ET (US) Nothing electric likes water, especially saltwater:-( I learned long ago that the best way to keep lights from being destroyed is to put them up high on the trailer guideposts where they will stay dry. Bob on Tampa Bay
kingfish	posted 08-31-2005 10:58 AM ET (US) I don't disagree with Bob, though the advertising indicates that LEDs are hermetically sealed units that are submersible plugged in. I have all LEDs on my trailer, and have had for 3 or 4 years, and I have the full array down low (stop/turn/run, clearance and over 84" W lights), as well as stop/turn/run and clearance lights up on stalks. I started out with Piranhas when they were in the range of 40 or 50 bucks each, and have had to replace a couple of the combination lights from partial diode failure; when I bought replacements, I bought them at a local truck stop, and I can't recall the brand name but they were like 20 bucks each, and have operated as well as the remaining Piranhas. I understand Piranhas are less costly these days. I leave the lights plugged in and running when I drop and pick up the boat (they look pretty cool under water at night!) John
jflots	posted 08-31-2005 04:11 PM ET (US) I found LED's in the Boater's world catalogue that are about 1 1/2"W x 15"L. I don't think they're water tight but they fit nicely, mounted vertically on a guide post. Keeps me from backing them into something. We're on our 2nd season with them on both boats, they work great. http://photobucket.com/albums/v413/jflots/13%20Whaler_Tidbit/
Robob2003	posted 09-01-2005 02:06 PM ET (US) jflots, Nobody can say they can't see them from behind:-) Good idea. Bob on Tampa Bay
kingfish	posted 09-01-2005 03:12 PM ET (US) jflots- I had looked at your photos earlier, but until I read robob's post, and went back and looked again, I didn't see the lights - they are really nice for guide posts! Are they combination tail/turn/brake? John
where2	posted 09-01-2005 09:15 PM ET (US) For additional longevity, wire all 3 wires to each (brake/tail) light rather than using the trailer frame for the ground wire. Use 2 conductor wire to each side marker light, and the over 80" clearance lights (if required). I have had one "Road Warrior" LED light partially fill with water on a trailer that was NEVER dunked. The manufacturer happily replaced the light with a redesigned model. After receiving a light that looked completely different, I contacted them again, and they sent a replacement light for the opposite side of the trailer so the lights would match. Not much complaint when the Mfg stands behind their product. No complaints after using 3 conductor wire to the brake/tail lights, and 2 conductor to the side marker lights.
TRAFFICLAWYER	posted 09-02-2005 08:20 PM ET (US) Whaler replaced the led lites on my new 15' with a set of WESBARS, which I installed, very nice!
devildog	posted 09-10-2005 10:11 PM ET (US) I'll agree with Bob: "Nothing electric likes water, especially saltwater." I use a removable light bar. I mounted a set of trailer lights to a 6' length of perforated steel channel. I bungee it to the trailer and remove it before dunking so it never gets wet. After years of replacing trailer lights, this is much easier for me. Jeff
swist	posted 09-14-2005 08:26 AM ET (US) Watch out for the complete LED trailer rewiring kits available at most boating/trailer places. It is an unusual experience in boating that you can't pay enough for something decent. I found that, while the light units themselves may have been sealed and of reasonable qaulity, the wiring, connectors, and other parts of the kits I looked at were pretty much crap. You are better off buying the lights separately, and then using marine grade wiring and connectors.....