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Author Topic:   Tilt Trim Wiring Options

Einar posted 09-17-2005 12:36 PM ET (US)
I have a 1981 Montauk with a same year Johnson 75 HP motor. Twice in the last year I have washed out the tilt / trim control box mounted on front of the splash well. Both times resulting in the relays being fried. I now want to relocate the control box to the safety of the console. I have also heard there are alternative ways to re-wire the tilt / trim using a pair of solenoids in lieu of relays. This was presented as a more reliable set up. Has anyone tried this?
I would be interested in learning about all creative solutions to this problem. Thanks for your time.
Al

Chuck Tribolet posted 09-17-2005 08:39 PM ET (US)
A true solenoid is makes a mechanical movement, not closing
electrical contacts. And will be just as sensitive to getting
wet.
Don't relocate the control box to the console. You will be
runing fairly high current to the console and back. Either
find a way to stash it under the cowling (the factory box for
mye '96 Evinrude 90 is there) or find a REAL box to mount on
the splashwell. Maybe a small pelican case.

Chuck
where2 posted 09-18-2005 03:03 PM ET (US)
On my 1985 70Hp Johnson, I added the factory trim & tilt kit. As you described it came with a box intended to be mounted on the transom. Having a 15' Sport, I envisioned the transom mounted box to be a nightmare, so I removed the relays from their mounting box and nestled them down under the terminal strip on the engine block (under the cowling). They've worked flawlessly there. I tapped my +12V power off the battery lead connecting to the starter solenoid, and used a bolt on the engine block for the negative lead.
If you take one of your relays to an auto parts store, they should be able to locate a relay with similar switching characteristics which also has a mounting tab to accept a screw. I simply made an aluminum plate which the two tabbed relays attach to, and thus they are held fast under the cowling and do not short to anything as the engine vibrates. I simply epoxied some plastic I had lying around to the factory relays in order to create a mounting tab which I then screwed to my aluminum mounting plate.
There was not anything particularly elaborate in the terminal box provided which proved a hassle to recreate under the engine cowling. If you need additional pointers, feel free to contact me. Its worth the investment in a few hours time to relocate the relays.

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Author	Topic: Tilt Trim Wiring Options
Einar	posted 09-17-2005 12:36 PM ET (US) I have a 1981 Montauk with a same year Johnson 75 HP motor. Twice in the last year I have washed out the tilt / trim control box mounted on front of the splash well. Both times resulting in the relays being fried. I now want to relocate the control box to the safety of the console. I have also heard there are alternative ways to re-wire the tilt / trim using a pair of solenoids in lieu of relays. This was presented as a more reliable set up. Has anyone tried this? I would be interested in learning about all creative solutions to this problem. Thanks for your time. Al
Chuck Tribolet	posted 09-17-2005 08:39 PM ET (US) A true solenoid is makes a mechanical movement, not closing electrical contacts. And will be just as sensitive to getting wet. Don't relocate the control box to the console. You will be runing fairly high current to the console and back. Either find a way to stash it under the cowling (the factory box for mye '96 Evinrude 90 is there) or find a REAL box to mount on the splashwell. Maybe a small pelican case. Chuck
where2	posted 09-18-2005 03:03 PM ET (US) On my 1985 70Hp Johnson, I added the factory trim & tilt kit. As you described it came with a box intended to be mounted on the transom. Having a 15' Sport, I envisioned the transom mounted box to be a nightmare, so I removed the relays from their mounting box and nestled them down under the terminal strip on the engine block (under the cowling). They've worked flawlessly there. I tapped my +12V power off the battery lead connecting to the starter solenoid, and used a bolt on the engine block for the negative lead. If you take one of your relays to an auto parts store, they should be able to locate a relay with similar switching characteristics which also has a mounting tab to accept a screw. I simply made an aluminum plate which the two tabbed relays attach to, and thus they are held fast under the cowling and do not short to anything as the engine vibrates. I simply epoxied some plastic I had lying around to the factory relays in order to create a mounting tab which I then screwed to my aluminum mounting plate. There was not anything particularly elaborate in the terminal box provided which proved a hassle to recreate under the engine cowling. If you need additional pointers, feel free to contact me. Its worth the investment in a few hours time to relocate the relays.