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Author Topic:   Bilge Pump Wiring

davej14 posted 10-15-2005 09:29 AM ET (US)
The bilge pump wiring on my 2000 Dauntless is interesting. I have a switch on the factory wired control panel for the bilge pump and can turn it on or off from there. I don't uinderstand why there would be a second on/off switch that would override the automatic operation of the float switch. Turning the pump on without water doesn't seem to be a good idea and if the switch is inadvertently bumped, the pump will run and drain the battery. Are the float switches prone to failure? If I replace the bilge pump with a unit that has a built in float switch, doesn't this panel switch become useless?
jimh posted 10-15-2005 09:48 AM ET (US)
The panel switch which operates the bilge pump may be wired in parallel with the float switch (assuming there is one), forcing the pump to run when the switch is operated. This is useful for clearing the last bit of water in the sump.
To make a float switch reliable, you have to set the ON threshold a bit higher than the absolute minimum level of water that the pump can evacuate, otherwise the pump would run all the time. Having a manual ON switch allows you to pump out the last bit of water that else would remain when the float switch shut off the pump.
Dick posted 10-15-2005 10:27 AM ET (US)
Another plus for the switch is that if your auto switch fails, which they do, you can still turn the pump on.
davej14 posted 10-17-2005 12:50 AM ET (US)
Good point about getting out the last bit of H20. I hadn't considered that.
Do the "Rule" pumps with integrated float switches have a terminal for bypassing the internal switch?
jimh posted 10-17-2005 09:16 AM ET (US)
I am certain that RULE can answer the question about the specifics of their products. Perhaps they maintain a website wherein they provide product literature about their pumps. That might have the answer.

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Author	Topic: Bilge Pump Wiring
davej14	posted 10-15-2005 09:29 AM ET (US) The bilge pump wiring on my 2000 Dauntless is interesting. I have a switch on the factory wired control panel for the bilge pump and can turn it on or off from there. I don't uinderstand why there would be a second on/off switch that would override the automatic operation of the float switch. Turning the pump on without water doesn't seem to be a good idea and if the switch is inadvertently bumped, the pump will run and drain the battery. Are the float switches prone to failure? If I replace the bilge pump with a unit that has a built in float switch, doesn't this panel switch become useless?
jimh	posted 10-15-2005 09:48 AM ET (US) The panel switch which operates the bilge pump may be wired in parallel with the float switch (assuming there is one), forcing the pump to run when the switch is operated. This is useful for clearing the last bit of water in the sump. To make a float switch reliable, you have to set the ON threshold a bit higher than the absolute minimum level of water that the pump can evacuate, otherwise the pump would run all the time. Having a manual ON switch allows you to pump out the last bit of water that else would remain when the float switch shut off the pump.
Dick	posted 10-15-2005 10:27 AM ET (US) Another plus for the switch is that if your auto switch fails, which they do, you can still turn the pump on.
davej14	posted 10-17-2005 12:50 AM ET (US) Good point about getting out the last bit of H20. I hadn't considered that. Do the "Rule" pumps with integrated float switches have a terminal for bypassing the internal switch?
jimh	posted 10-17-2005 09:16 AM ET (US) I am certain that RULE can answer the question about the specifics of their products. Perhaps they maintain a website wherein they provide product literature about their pumps. That might have the answer.