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Author Topic:   DAUNTLESS 15 WIRING

Mambo Minnow posted 11-05-2005 04:51 PM ET (US)
98 Dauntless 15 with Merc 60HP 2 stroke. Boat has been flawless from maintenance perspective to date - do all mechanicals myself but not an electrician.
Last time out, the tach and voltage gauges were fluctuating.....tach at idles would not go below 1000 RPM. Trouble starting from anchor. When I got back to ramp - totally dead at restart - no ignition kickover, not even tilt/trim on button at the motor. I had to manually raise.
Once back home however, kicks over but the tach is still off.
I recently replaced battery and two years ago installed an Eagles finder/plotter at local dealer with no problems. Checked the fuse under the cowling - not blown. Unscewed gauge panel off center console, some verdigris, but no noticeable disconnects.
Six years is a long time...mostly indoors storage in NE, outdoors covered last year in FL. Is there only some many years before wiring replacement/instrument panel replacement is a given?
Any troubleshooting tips and techniques welcome!

jimh posted 11-05-2005 10:47 PM ET (US)
In a battery operated system is not unusual for there to be:
--problems with the battery itself; check the state of charge of the battery.
--problem with the charging system; check that the motor is providing proper charging current to the battery when the motor is operating at a fast idle speed or higher.
--problems with connections or cables; check all the connections involved to be sure they are tight and there is no corrosion. In a 12-volt system it only takes a very thin layer of oxidation to stop the flow of current, and a connection can appear to be good mechanically but be no good electrically. Also check the cables themselves. If water has penetrated the insulation the copper wire will quickly oxidize and lose conductivity.
Mambo Minnow posted 11-07-2005 05:44 PM ET (US)
Ok Jim, took to local Mercury dealer to trouble shoot. He reports nothing major, just loose ground wire at battery - corrected. Put on shop tach and says he checked the onboard check and test sat. Could not duplicate the tilt/trim failure.
I still have my doubts...when I turn Perko battery swith "on" and crank ignition short bursts (like fogging the motor at plugs) the tach meter jumps over 1000 rpm and is very, very slow to "fall" back to zero idicator mark.
Battery level gauge reading a steady 12V.
Boat cranks/tilt trim operates...I just hate to get out on open water with kids and go DIW...
jimh posted 11-07-2005 06:27 PM ET (US)
Were you using wing nuts to make the battery connection?
Cf.: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000624.html
Mambo Minnow posted 11-07-2005 08:46 PM ET (US)
Yes, been using since bought boat in 99.

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Author	Topic: DAUNTLESS 15 WIRING
Mambo Minnow	posted 11-05-2005 04:51 PM ET (US) 98 Dauntless 15 with Merc 60HP 2 stroke. Boat has been flawless from maintenance perspective to date - do all mechanicals myself but not an electrician. Last time out, the tach and voltage gauges were fluctuating.....tach at idles would not go below 1000 RPM. Trouble starting from anchor. When I got back to ramp - totally dead at restart - no ignition kickover, not even tilt/trim on button at the motor. I had to manually raise. Once back home however, kicks over but the tach is still off. I recently replaced battery and two years ago installed an Eagles finder/plotter at local dealer with no problems. Checked the fuse under the cowling - not blown. Unscewed gauge panel off center console, some verdigris, but no noticeable disconnects. Six years is a long time...mostly indoors storage in NE, outdoors covered last year in FL. Is there only some many years before wiring replacement/instrument panel replacement is a given? Any troubleshooting tips and techniques welcome!
jimh	posted 11-05-2005 10:47 PM ET (US) In a battery operated system is not unusual for there to be: --problems with the battery itself; check the state of charge of the battery. --problem with the charging system; check that the motor is providing proper charging current to the battery when the motor is operating at a fast idle speed or higher. --problems with connections or cables; check all the connections involved to be sure they are tight and there is no corrosion. In a 12-volt system it only takes a very thin layer of oxidation to stop the flow of current, and a connection can appear to be good mechanically but be no good electrically. Also check the cables themselves. If water has penetrated the insulation the copper wire will quickly oxidize and lose conductivity.
Mambo Minnow	posted 11-07-2005 05:44 PM ET (US) Ok Jim, took to local Mercury dealer to trouble shoot. He reports nothing major, just loose ground wire at battery - corrected. Put on shop tach and says he checked the onboard check and test sat. Could not duplicate the tilt/trim failure. I still have my doubts...when I turn Perko battery swith "on" and crank ignition short bursts (like fogging the motor at plugs) the tach meter jumps over 1000 rpm and is very, very slow to "fall" back to zero idicator mark. Battery level gauge reading a steady 12V. Boat cranks/tilt trim operates...I just hate to get out on open water with kids and go DIW...
jimh	posted 11-07-2005 06:27 PM ET (US) Were you using wing nuts to make the battery connection? Cf.: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000624.html
Mambo Minnow	posted 11-07-2005 08:46 PM ET (US) Yes, been using since bought boat in 99.