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Author Topic:   Hourmeter installation

fizzboater posted 01-22-2006 08:26 PM ET (US)
Hi folks. I am new to boating and have just about completed refurbishment of a 15' Glasscraft pleasure boat. I have installed all new instrumentation and have a question about the hour-meter.
Where is the correct point to connect this to? I have a 1988 Johnston 90hp o/b, Model # J90TLCCA and only want the hourmeter to run when the engine is running - that's logical isn't it? Is there provision for this with this engine, or should i just wire it across the DC bus AFTER the main DC Isolating switch, given that this will just record DC-on time?
Also, I am istalling a big fat DC isolating switch between the battery and the starter wire to the engine (200 Amp capacity), but not sure of how to wire the separate DC feed to the instrumentation up front, plus lights etc. I am considering installing an ON/OFF toggle switch (20 Amp DC) at the battery-end as a "master-switch", but what conventions are there about this? Should I put a suitably-rated circuit/breaker there instead of a toggle switch, or both (in series)? What variations are permissable?
I have been reading many of the topics on this website (particularly interested in the subject of cable-crimping etc) and am impressed by the helpful responses and friendliness evident between posters here (i.e. the abcense of 'smart' replies or criticisms -v. good to see). Just had to join up!!
jimh posted 01-22-2006 08:40 PM ET (US)
Check the REFERENCE section for the color code of the wiring used by OMC. You'll find the wire from the ignition switch which has 12 VDC when the switch is in the RUN or START position. That's where to connect the hour meter.
See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html#OMC
Hint: It's the violet wire.
Conductors connected to the battery positive should be protected against over-current by a fuse or circuit breaker mounted close to the battery. The typical installation has a circuit breaker. If you are going to use it as an ON/OFF switch, too, be sure to get one that is rated for a lot of cycles.
fizzboater posted 01-22-2006 09:37 PM ET (US)
Thankyou Jim for your helpful reply and information. I have printed out the relevant documents. This is a great website!
One more query for now: I have installed an electrical fuel-level sender in the 40-gallon stainless steel fuel tank. This unit is mounted thru an 1.5" hole in the top of the tank. It requires a ground circuit back to battery neg of course (which is located right next to the tank - is that a good idea for battery placement?). My question is, is it ok to ground the fuel tank as this will happen when I screw down the metal flange of the sender unit into the metal top.


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Author	Topic: Hourmeter installation
fizzboater	posted 01-22-2006 08:26 PM ET (US) Hi folks. I am new to boating and have just about completed refurbishment of a 15' Glasscraft pleasure boat. I have installed all new instrumentation and have a question about the hour-meter. Where is the correct point to connect this to? I have a 1988 Johnston 90hp o/b, Model # J90TLCCA and only want the hourmeter to run when the engine is running - that's logical isn't it? Is there provision for this with this engine, or should i just wire it across the DC bus AFTER the main DC Isolating switch, given that this will just record DC-on time? Also, I am istalling a big fat DC isolating switch between the battery and the starter wire to the engine (200 Amp capacity), but not sure of how to wire the separate DC feed to the instrumentation up front, plus lights etc. I am considering installing an ON/OFF toggle switch (20 Amp DC) at the battery-end as a "master-switch", but what conventions are there about this? Should I put a suitably-rated circuit/breaker there instead of a toggle switch, or both (in series)? What variations are permissable? I have been reading many of the topics on this website (particularly interested in the subject of cable-crimping etc) and am impressed by the helpful responses and friendliness evident between posters here (i.e. the abcense of 'smart' replies or criticisms -v. good to see). Just had to join up!!
jimh	posted 01-22-2006 08:40 PM ET (US) Check the REFERENCE section for the color code of the wiring used by OMC. You'll find the wire from the ignition switch which has 12 VDC when the switch is in the RUN or START position. That's where to connect the hour meter. See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html#OMC Hint: It's the violet wire. Conductors connected to the battery positive should be protected against over-current by a fuse or circuit breaker mounted close to the battery. The typical installation has a circuit breaker. If you are going to use it as an ON/OFF switch, too, be sure to get one that is rated for a lot of cycles.
fizzboater	posted 01-22-2006 09:37 PM ET (US) Thankyou Jim for your helpful reply and information. I have printed out the relevant documents. This is a great website! One more query for now: I have installed an electrical fuel-level sender in the 40-gallon stainless steel fuel tank. This unit is mounted thru an 1.5" hole in the top of the tank. It requires a ground circuit back to battery neg of course (which is located right next to the tank - is that a good idea for battery placement?). My question is, is it ok to ground the fuel tank as this will happen when I screw down the metal flange of the sender unit into the metal top.