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Author Topic:   Power Distribution For Accessories
davej14 posted 03-08-2006 10:04 AM ET (US)   Profile for davej14   Send Email to davej14  
I have quite a few electronics upgrades to install this Spring. I want to start the process of cleaning up the wiring in my center console by first installing a fuse or breaker connection block for the new electronics. Eventually I will move all wiring to this new central point. What recommendations do you have? Any pictures would also be appreciated.
bsmotril posted 03-08-2006 01:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
Look here for some good ideas:

I used the "Glass Fuse Block with negative Bus" panel under my console. A single pair of power wires goes from this panel to the battery. All the console electronics, nav lights, gauge lights etc then are powered from this fuse panel. BillS

LHG posted 03-08-2006 02:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for LHG    
Second Bill's recommendation of Blue Sea. I recently used their 6 slot combination fuse/terminal block (about $30 at West marine) in re-wiring my 21 Outrage. They also make one with 12 slots. Very high quality equipment.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-08-2006 03:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Casco Bay Outrage  Send Email to Casco Bay Outrage     
I appreciate this thread as this item is on my list of to-do's this spring.

The fun part will be figring out how the prior owner's marina wired everything up on my Outrage 17. Inside the console and the rigging tunnel are a scary mess of wires.

Looking at installing this to clean everything up on the dash. l2=7990

Chuck Tribolet posted 03-08-2006 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
I don't think you need separate switches for all the
electronics. They have their own on/off switches, so all
you need is a master switch so you can be sure everything is
off when you park it.

I used the same unit bsmotril used. Be sure to get the version
that has the negative bus. Wire from the Acc switch to the
fuse block, then from the fuse block to the units.


bluewaterpirate posted 03-08-2006 08:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for bluewaterpirate  Send Email to bluewaterpirate     
You can wire 6 or 8 different devices using a fuze block wired thru the battery switch and a common ground. It can be wired with either 4 or 6 awg wire to connect to the battery switch and common ground. The picture is of a 6 device fuze block.


rtk posted 03-08-2006 09:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for rtk  Send Email to rtk     
The Blue Sea fuse panels are very nice units, and I agree they are high quality.

I installed the 12 fuse (blade style) with negative buss and cover last year.

They come with stickers for the clear panel cover so you can cleanly mark the fuse location for each accessory.


Chuck Tribolet posted 03-08-2006 11:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
You won't need anything like 4 or 6 gauge wire for the
electronics. 12 gauge TOPS.

4 gauge is for like 50 amps.
6 gauge is for like 30 amps.
12 gauge will handle about 12 amps.
Typical whaler electronics suite will pull about 6 amps.

Blue Sea has a set of labels, and you can order individual
labels for the strange stuff. Or just get out the Brother
label maker.


bluewaterpirate posted 03-09-2006 08:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for bluewaterpirate  Send Email to bluewaterpirate     
But Chuck that what is recommended by the manufacturer on the install instructions.


Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-09-2006 10:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Casco Bay Outrage  Send Email to Casco Bay Outrage     
Chuck -

The VHF and GPS and sounder are hardwired (no switches) with inline fuses. The master switch is adjacent to the battery in the stern. Will leave this alone.

Since I will be adding a bilge pump and floor lights, may as well replace the two switches (accessory, nav lights). I prefer the rockers with a light over the pull type.

Here is what the dash looks like now. jpg&.src=ph

Switch install I did on my Montauk. jpg&.src=ph


Chuck Tribolet posted 03-09-2006 12:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
You mean the install instructions from Blue Sea on their
panel? That would be true if you were using it in a high
current application, but this isn't high current. Fuse
the wire at the battery with a fuse appropriate for the wire,
and no problem.

Casco Bay Outrage:
Those rocker switches make a nice clean install. I like to
a terminal block when a switch is running a bunch of different
devices because you have to bring all those wires together
somehow, and the terminal block does a sanitary job of it.
The one thing I don't like about the rockers is that they
use quick disconnect connections, and they sometimes
disconnect quickly ;-)


rtk posted 03-18-2006 12:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for rtk  Send Email to rtk     
I just received my Blue Sea Systems 8 position DC power distribution panel 8271/8371.

It is a very nice product.

The guarantee on the product caught my eye.


Any Blue Sea Systems product with which a customer is not satisfied may be returned for a refund or replacement at any time."

How could you possibly go wrong with any of their products? I don't think I have ever seen that with a marine product, especially an electrical item.


wwbach posted 03-21-2006 11:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for wwbach  Send Email to wwbach     
Tom (bluewaterpirate), In the picture of your Blue Sea Fuse Panel, it looks like some of the connections have a an in-line (yellow and white) fuse as well. Am I miss interpreting what this is or what is the purpose? Thanks. -- Bud
crusty crab posted 03-21-2006 04:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for crusty crab  Send Email to crusty crab     

Although I am totally impressed with your organized and well thought-out installation I wanted to point out that generally one shouldn't coil up cables in circles, especially communication, shielded or antenna cables to make them neat. Electricity running through coiled cable creates a magnet i.e. EM field, i.e. noise. The more current and the more coils, the stronger the effect so this is especially important for high current unshielded power lines in proximity to communication or shielded antenna lines, electronics, compasses, etc..

The more coils, the worse it is. It's better to flatten out extra cable in long rows (as few rows as possible) if you don't want to cut it.

Sorry to nitpick.

bsmotril posted 03-22-2006 08:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
The easiest waht to get around this is to give the coil a half twist so it is now a figure eight versus a coil. Secure it in place that way. The two now counter oriented coils null out any reception of noise. BillS
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-22-2006 02:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
More importantly than the coils generating noise is the
coils picking up noise. It's the area of the loop that
counts. And four loops is four times more area than one loop
the same size, but four loops is four times better than the same wire making one big loop.

HOWEVER, if the outbound and inbound wires are together, and
even better twisted a little, they cancel each other out,
and it really doesn't make any difference how you coil it.


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