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Author Topic:   Engine won't turnover

kamie posted 05-25-2006 07:33 PM ET (US)
I put in a new battery today and went to start her for the first time this season. Battery reads 12.5 volts on the navman and as soon as I turn the key it drops to 9.5 volts. It seems like it never gets close to turning over? Just looking for a few simple suggestions to try although I will call the marina tomorrow and see if I can drop her off this weekend.

ConB posted 05-25-2006 08:36 PM ET (US)
I would say your new battery is no good.
Are your connections clean and tight?
It should take a load and still have well over 12 volts.
Con
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-25-2006 08:41 PM ET (US)
No, under cranking the battery voltage can drop a good bit.
As low as 6V for some engines and weather conditions. IIRC,
my Evinrude 90 specs about 8V.
Is the engine frozen? Turn the ignition off, pull the
spark plug wires, put it in gear, and see of you can turn
it with the prop.
Chuck
kamie posted 05-25-2006 09:39 PM ET (US)
Thanks folks,
In the morning I will pull the spark plugs and check the state to see if it's frozen.
I have checked the fuse and it's fine, and replaced the starter solenoid last season as well as the wiring harness. What's left in the manual to check is, outboard not shifted into netural (covered), weak battery or connection loose or starter motor failure.
Also potential are fouled spark pluges as noted under the 'Engine will not Start' section of the manual
I did remove all electronics from the battery so the only thing hooked up is the engine.
ConB posted 05-25-2006 10:10 PM ET (US)
Yes, Chuck, but when done cranking the engine, should the battery voltage be back over 12 volts if the battery is good?
Con
Tom W Clark posted 05-25-2006 10:47 PM ET (US)
Kamie,
Forgive me for asking the obvious, but you say you put a "new" battery in, but is it fully charged?
kamie posted 05-26-2006 05:52 AM ET (US)
Tom,
I thought about that and was going to toss it on the charger to make sure.
seahorse posted 05-26-2006 07:37 AM ET (US)
When you installed the new battery, did you sand or wirebrush the terminals so instead of the dull grey, they were a shiny silver? Did you also clean each of the battery cable ends so they polished up nicely? If not, you can get a poor connection and quite a voltage drop thru the connections, with symptoms such as what you have now.
Do not use the wing nuts that come with batteries, use stainless steel nuts and lockwashers for a secure connection.
davej14 posted 05-26-2006 08:17 AM ET (US)
Where are you reading the battery voltage? If you are reading at the battery itself with a VOM and the battery is not defective then something must be getting hot. If that isn't the case I would have the battery tested. Since it is the component you changed it is the most likely suspect.
jimh posted 05-26-2006 09:12 AM ET (US)
I offer this general rule, which is based on over 30 years of diagnosing and repairing electrical and electronic devices which operate from battery power:
IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH A BATTERY OPERATED ELECTRICAL DEVICE, THE FIRST COMPONENT TO CHECK IS THE BATTERY.
You will be amazed how much time can be saved by following this rule.
Backlash posted 05-26-2006 12:20 PM ET (US)
And I offer this general rule based on over 30 years of buying various wet-cell batteries: I HAVE YET TO BUY ONE THAT WAS FULLY CHARGED WHEN NEW.
kamie posted 05-26-2006 02:22 PM ET (US)
Issue resolved. It was a combination of the battery needing a charge and a loose wire.
I put the battery on the charger this morning and it was fully charged when I got home. Reinstalled the battery, better but still not quite turning the engine over.
I had checked all the spark plug wires but only at the spark plug end. It seems there is a connection at the other end that can come loose. I was pusing against them and one snapped back into place. Once that was resolved she started right up with the growel and a puff of smoke.
I was considering taking her to Rolling Thunder but didn't think the hose would reach so I guess I will finish up the remaining todo items. Thanks all for the suggestions.
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-26-2006 06:01 PM ET (US)
I'm glad Kamie is up and running.
Conb: yes, the voltage should go back up after you are done
cranking.

Chuck

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Author	Topic: Engine won't turnover
kamie	posted 05-25-2006 07:33 PM ET (US) I put in a new battery today and went to start her for the first time this season. Battery reads 12.5 volts on the navman and as soon as I turn the key it drops to 9.5 volts. It seems like it never gets close to turning over? Just looking for a few simple suggestions to try although I will call the marina tomorrow and see if I can drop her off this weekend.
ConB	posted 05-25-2006 08:36 PM ET (US) I would say your new battery is no good. Are your connections clean and tight? It should take a load and still have well over 12 volts. Con
Chuck Tribolet	posted 05-25-2006 08:41 PM ET (US) No, under cranking the battery voltage can drop a good bit. As low as 6V for some engines and weather conditions. IIRC, my Evinrude 90 specs about 8V. Is the engine frozen? Turn the ignition off, pull the spark plug wires, put it in gear, and see of you can turn it with the prop. Chuck
kamie	posted 05-25-2006 09:39 PM ET (US) Thanks folks, In the morning I will pull the spark plugs and check the state to see if it's frozen. I have checked the fuse and it's fine, and replaced the starter solenoid last season as well as the wiring harness. What's left in the manual to check is, outboard not shifted into netural (covered), weak battery or connection loose or starter motor failure. Also potential are fouled spark pluges as noted under the 'Engine will not Start' section of the manual I did remove all electronics from the battery so the only thing hooked up is the engine.
ConB	posted 05-25-2006 10:10 PM ET (US) Yes, Chuck, but when done cranking the engine, should the battery voltage be back over 12 volts if the battery is good? Con
Tom W Clark	posted 05-25-2006 10:47 PM ET (US) Kamie, Forgive me for asking the obvious, but you say you put a "new" battery in, but is it fully charged?
kamie	posted 05-26-2006 05:52 AM ET (US) Tom, I thought about that and was going to toss it on the charger to make sure.
seahorse	posted 05-26-2006 07:37 AM ET (US) When you installed the new battery, did you sand or wirebrush the terminals so instead of the dull grey, they were a shiny silver? Did you also clean each of the battery cable ends so they polished up nicely? If not, you can get a poor connection and quite a voltage drop thru the connections, with symptoms such as what you have now. Do not use the wing nuts that come with batteries, use stainless steel nuts and lockwashers for a secure connection.
davej14	posted 05-26-2006 08:17 AM ET (US) Where are you reading the battery voltage? If you are reading at the battery itself with a VOM and the battery is not defective then something must be getting hot. If that isn't the case I would have the battery tested. Since it is the component you changed it is the most likely suspect.
jimh	posted 05-26-2006 09:12 AM ET (US) I offer this general rule, which is based on over 30 years of diagnosing and repairing electrical and electronic devices which operate from battery power: IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH A BATTERY OPERATED ELECTRICAL DEVICE, THE FIRST COMPONENT TO CHECK IS THE BATTERY. You will be amazed how much time can be saved by following this rule.
Backlash	posted 05-26-2006 12:20 PM ET (US) And I offer this general rule based on over 30 years of buying various wet-cell batteries: I HAVE YET TO BUY ONE THAT WAS FULLY CHARGED WHEN NEW.
kamie	posted 05-26-2006 02:22 PM ET (US) Issue resolved. It was a combination of the battery needing a charge and a loose wire. I put the battery on the charger this morning and it was fully charged when I got home. Reinstalled the battery, better but still not quite turning the engine over. I had checked all the spark plug wires but only at the spark plug end. It seems there is a connection at the other end that can come loose. I was pusing against them and one snapped back into place. Once that was resolved she started right up with the growel and a puff of smoke. I was considering taking her to Rolling Thunder but didn't think the hose would reach so I guess I will finish up the remaining todo items. Thanks all for the suggestions.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 05-26-2006 06:01 PM ET (US) I'm glad Kamie is up and running. Conb: yes, the voltage should go back up after you are done cranking. Chuck