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Author Topic:   Trailer Lights
NYonthebeach posted 06-29-2006 09:34 PM ET (US)   Profile for NYonthebeach   Send Email to NYonthebeach  
I have running lights and brake lights on my trailer. The turn signals light and flash for 30 seconds then stop on both my truck and my trailer. My hazard lights don't work at all when hooked to the trailer.

My truck works fine without the trailer hooked up. Is it a voltage [problem]? Do I need to boost the voltage to the trailer when hooked up and if so, how?

jimh posted 06-29-2006 09:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Trailer lighting circuits are designed to operate on 12-volts, just as the lighting circuits in your vehicle.

Refer to this prior discussion for information on diagnosis of trailer lighting circuit problems:

Trailer Wiring

Remote diagnosis of electrical problems is difficult. It will be much easier for you to diagnose the problem if you have some simple electrical test equipment and can take measurement of the voltages and resistances on your trailer. Can you do this?

Begin by testing all of the trailer lighting circuits. Use a separate 12-volt battery and apply power to the appropriate pins of the trailer connector. Then measure the voltage at all lamp socket terminals. Let me know your findings and we can help diagnose the problem further.

TC Goldman posted 06-30-2006 09:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for TC Goldman  Send Email to TC Goldman     
I am not a expert in electrical problems. But maybe someone can add to what I'm trying to say. I remeber a few boats/ trucks ago- I had a problem like Yours and the problem was the truck was not really set up with the "trailer package". In my case there was a fuse or "black box thing" (???) in the fuse block. It controled the blinkers on the truck and need to be replaced with a "heavy duty" fuse(?) for trailing.
Can someone add to or correct what I am trying to say.
Chuck Tribolet posted 06-30-2006 12:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
What truck?


PeteB88 posted 06-30-2006 12:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Gotta know the make and model of your vehicle. Does it use a converter?
PeteB88 posted 06-30-2006 12:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
I found a good trick - Use a battery charger to test your trailer lights - saves fuses and blown circuits. You must make certain your trailer wiring is intact, no shorts or rodent stripped wires. Using the battery charger to power up your trailer lights for testing saves damage to your vehicle electrical circuit and electronics. Esp if you have a converter requirement like my Toyota Camry. As I understand it shorted out circuits blow diodes in the converter that are potted into the device with epoxy thus impossible to repair.

In my case, mice stripped at least 50% of the wiring harness that ran through the tubes of the Karavan trailer.

It's probably best to just rewire your trailer double checking your own connections. I bought entire wiring kit and new lights for under $25 bucks. LEDs are about $50 bucks.

RickS posted 06-30-2006 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for RickS  Send Email to RickS     
As Todd suggested, older vehicles need a heavy duty flasher in the fuse panel instead of the regular flasher, An easy replacement.

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