Forum: WHALER
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  No Lighting or Accessory Power

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Author Topic:   No Lighting or Accessory Power
TomTonge posted 07-06-2006 01:32 PM ET (US)   Profile for TomTonge   Send Email to TomTonge  
I just bought a 1988 REVENGE 22 WT. The navigation lamps both bow and stern and accessories are not getting power. I attached a depth gauge directly to the battery. It works. I attach it to the accessory wiring block under the dash and it doesn't work! I measure the voltage under the dash and it reads 12+ volts.I'm stymied. I'm also electrically deficient! I wish I had a owners manual as they sometimes include a wiring diagram. [Give me a] wiring diagram for a 1988 Revenge 22 WT. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Tom Tonge
CatBoatSailor posted 07-06-2006 05:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for CatBoatSailor  Send Email to CatBoatSailor     
I'm not familiar with a specific wiring diagrams for different Whaler models. The reference section of this site has a lot of great information and includes the manual for Whaler models 18-25 ft. (of which your Revenge is one)

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/index.html

Also the search tool located at the top of the forum pages is great for narrowing in on previously discussed topics. It's a good place to start before posting a new topic.

That being said, if you're getting 12V from the battery, and also at the bus under steering console, but no components are operating, I would first check fuses. I can access the bulk of the wiring under my steering console on the Revenge from insided the cuddy. There is access on the interior bulkhead behind the storage pockets. (the pockets are held on by snaps)

This pic shows the opposite side, but you get the idear.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/mhryan/ Revenge%20Nantucket%20Trial/DSCN1793.jpg

jimh posted 07-06-2006 09:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
There are no known specific wiring diagrams available for classic Boston Whaler boats.

Check for a blown fuse in the distribution panel. Check the main circuit breaker in the stern splash well on starboard.

The factory wiring on a classic Boston Whaler is extraordinarily simple and for the most part all circuits are clearly visible. There is practically no concealed wiring save for the run to the sidelight combination lamp. This runs in the bow railing.

Allow me to repeat my basic electrical troubleshooting procedure:

Basic Electrical Troubleshooing

Basic electrical troubleshooting procedures will help you find the problem.
Begin at the load where you anticipate having voltage. Measure the voltage. If there is no voltage, follow the conductor from the load back toward the source of the voltage. When you reach the next device, measure the voltage. At some point you will find the voltage. You have now found the point from which the problem is downstream. Begin to inspect all devices such as connections, splices, terminals, fuses, switches, circuit breakers, lugs, crimps, etc., looking for some device or connection which has failed. In this way you will locate the problem. When you locate the device causing the problem you can choose to repair or replace the device.

In circuits which operate at 12-volts DC it is very common that a slight bit of corrosion or insulation on a conductor will prevent conduction. With a low voltage circuit the Electromotive Force (EMF) or voltage will not be able to jump through the insulating layer and restore the circuit. In higher voltage circuits the EMF can jump through small amounts of insulating corrosion and self-restore the circuit. With 12-volts it takes but a very thin layer of insulation to prevent flow of current.

Because boats are operating in a wet environment, it is common for electrical connections to become corroded. If you have any bare copper conductors, they will form an oxide of copper which may not be conductive. Silver is much preferred because silver oxides are conductive. For this reason almost all wiring used in a marine application should be tinned and connections should be tinned or silver plated, not bare copper.

Switch contacts should not be cleaned with rough abrasives. Usually a switch contact can be restored by careful cleaning. If an abrasive is needed use 600-grit emery cloth. You can wet-sand with a cleaner like WD-40. The contacts should be very smooth, almost polished.

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