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Transducer cable routing on 1995 21' Outrage?
|Author||Topic: Transducer cable routing on 1995 21' Outrage?|
posted 07-21-2006 06:35 PM ET (US)
This morning I pulled my 1995 21' Outrage with custom T-top out of the water to replace the transducer and speed sensor in preparation for installation of a newer Lowrance sonar/GPS unit. Both the old transducer and speed sensor were on the transom, with their cables routed up and over the transom, and I mounted the new ones in the same locations.
From there, the old cables and a bunch of engine cables disappear into an opening just forward of the transom on the starboard side. Does this tunnel run continuously to the console so that I can pull cable from one end to the other? Or is it necessary to open up the big panel on the deck underneath the seating?
Also, any other tips for making the cable-pulling go easier? I was thinking of tying some strong poly cord to the old transducer cable, pulling it out from the transducer end, then tying the new transducer cable onto the poly cord and pulling it from the console end. Is there a better way to approach this? Also, does the tunnel generally have a fair amount of leeway with an average amount of cabling installed, or does it tend to be a bear?
posted 07-21-2006 07:11 PM ET (US)
I have a different Whaler, so can't offer specifics regarding your hulls routing configuration.
However, in general you have the correct idea in
utilizing the old cable to fish the new, and shouldn’t need to remove any decking in the process. This spring
I replaced a transducer - had attached to the old cable to the new cable and a small poly line for future use. Used electrical tape to form a smooth taper at the front in hoping to minimize any hang ups as the bundle makes it way over existing cables, wiring, etc. May need to use a good quantity of electrical tape in smoothing out any bumps such as the new transducer's connector. Apply grease to this leading taper. Have some one at the transom side feed the bundle as directionally correct as possible into the tunnel, (if applicable, arm extended as far as possible into the bilge), and then you pull from the front. If it gets hung up and you can't tug over some obstacle, just have the person at the transom tug it back a bit and then try pulling again. For hang ups, it's also possible that rotating the old cable while pulling could help. Be patient, eventually you'll succeed.
posted 07-21-2006 08:20 PM ET (US)
On my 1997 21 Outrage the rigging tube runs from the area you describe to the console floor on the starboard side. Look in the console on the floor, you should see the control cables, engine harness etc coming out of the floor. You don't have to pull the floor to run the transducer cable. Look under the gunnel on the starboard side all the way back, there should be an access panel with 4 screws in it. Remove that panel and you will see all the wires that enter at the transom section, then enter the rigging tube. I found it easier to remove that panel to fish the wires forward.
When replacing items run through the rigging tube, I use the item I am removing to run the new wire. Find the old transducer cable, cut it at the transom, attach the new transducer cable to the cut end with electrical tape and pull the new through. Wrap it real tight, and cover the connector real well so it does not get hung up.
If there are alot of wires in that rigging tunnel it may be tough to pull it through. Jiggle and wiggle, pull forward than back and be patient.
If you can't get it through that tunnel, there is another wire chase attached to the bottom of the floor panel on the port side that leads to another opening in the console port side floor. That is where my saltwater washdown hose runs from the pump in the console to the pickup on the port side. Open the big hatch back by the engine, stick your head in there and look at the back of the fuel tank, you should see it. You can run wire up that chase too. That is where I ran all my control cables, harness and battery cables for my kicker.
posted 07-22-2006 12:09 PM ET (US)
There is a graphite loaded grease especially designed for pulling cables through conduit that is available at your local electrical supplier. I would not use grease that was not designed for this purpose in case the insulating jackets of wires in the chase are not totally resistant to it. Another option is plain old liquid dish detergent.
If you cannot pull it through the tunnel with the existing cable try a "fish tape". You can get a short 20' "fish tape" at Home Depot for about $20. Sometimes the original cables are bundled together before being run through the chase. This could result in the original cable being wrapped around another cable in the bundle and using it can prove difficult.
If using a fish tape, tape the new connector to it so that you are not pulling exclusively on the connector and taper the leading edge to avoid snags.
posted 08-24-2006 06:50 PM ET (US)
Just to resurrect this topic -- after a few weeks of being distracted with other things, last week I ran the transducer cables over the deck and plugged them in to the Lowrance (LCX-17M) to verify that the sonar works (it does). Now I need to get the transducer and speed sensor cables fed through the channel under the deck.
I tried attaching the transducer cable to the old one to pull it through the channel that way, but it got caught up pretty hard and wasn't going to budge. I'm suspecting the bundle of steering and other cables may have additional cable ties around them under the deck. So I'm thinking it's better to forget the old cable, and instead feed a fish tape through the tunnel and use that to pull the cables through. Besides the fish tape, I have cable-pulling lubricant at the ready. But I hear from many friends that this is a time-consuming process, and may involve recruiting buddies with the inducement of six packs and so on.
At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it would be better to (a) connect the transducer and speed sensor cables together, and pull them through all at one time, or (b) pull them through separately in two different operations. Can any voices of experience offer an opinion on what would be the better way to go here?
posted 08-25-2006 09:51 AM ET (US)
Just did this last weekend...I had to replace my old trandsducer as I hit something while trolling. Anyway, I first un-hooked the old transducer cable from my sonar unit up on the console. Next I tied a 20' (or so) peice of 80lb mono fishing line to the connector of the old cable. Next I went back to the transom and just pulled the old cable out. Once it was out, I un-tied the fishing line from the old cable connector and re-tied it to the connector for the new transducer cable. I gently fed he connector to the new cable into the rigging tunnel and continued to push about 12" of new cable in. I changed places with my son and had him feed cable in as I layed inside the console and gently pulled it through. When we hit snags, he'd pull 5" or so back out and then feed it back in again as I tugged from the console end of the tunnel. Go easy and be patient, it will go - you just gotta be patient and go slow sometimes. Whenever it seems you've hit a snag and she won't go any further, stop and go back the other way a few inches then repeat the gentle pulling process. Its much easier with two people. I find the fishing line routine worked better than even the cord Whaler installs from the factory. This was on an '05 170 MONTAUK but it can't be much different than yours - GOOD LUCK!
posted 09-10-2006 11:15 PM ET (US)
To resurrect this topic another time -- I liked rtk's suggestion in a post higher in this thread:
"If you can't get it through that tunnel, there is another wire chase attached to the bottom of the floor panel on the port side that leads to another opening in the console port side floor. That is where my saltwater washdown hose runs from the pump in the console to the pickup on the port side. Open the big hatch back by the engine, stick your head in there and look at the back of the fuel tank, you should see it. You can run wire up that chase too. That is where I ran all my control cables, harness and battery cables for my kicker."
I checked out the chase on the port side, and easily got a fish tape through from the console to the bilge. My only question now is, what's a neat and tidy way to get the transducer and speed sensor cables from over the transom down into the bilge? I'm not seeing a way to do it on my 1995 21' Outrage without leaving one of the hatches open -- having to do that permanently doesn't seem like an ideal solution. Thanks for any suggestions if there's a routing here I haven't seen yet.
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