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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Replace Fuse Block
|Author||Topic: Replace Fuse Block|
posted 07-31-2006 02:55 PM ET (US)
I have been having intermitent electrical problems, i.e. my GPS turning off in the middle of trip and my engine not getting power, then getting power. (Almost had to be towed in)
My initial thought was the ignition switch, but after putting the two problems together, I believe the problem is my fuse panel. It is the old glass fuse style.
I was wondering if any had any tips or suggestions on how to properly switch the fuse block out. I have purchased a Blue Seas Fuse block PN 5026.
Any suggestions would be greatly aprreciated.
posted 07-31-2006 04:25 PM ET (US)
I just did this on my Dauntless. You will need to get a quantity of insulated ring terminals for #8 screws. I suggest the Anchor double crimp style. They will require a relatively inexpensive crimping tool for insulated terminals. I also suggest you get a few heat shrink insulated Anchor butt splices for any leads that are not long enough to reach the new location. You will probably be able to use the existing battery feeds for the new Blue Seas block, just make sure they are in good shape and at least 10 gage marine wire with a #10 ring terminal for the fuse block termination.
Chances are you have a common bus for battery negative (black) wires in addition to the fuse block for the positive (red wires). I found that locating the Blue Seas block in the location of the common bus made the installation easier because the black leads were shorter on my boat. If the existing connections are "stake-on" type you will need to cut them off and replace them with the ring terminals. Write down each positive lead location and function as you go and make sure that you use the proper amperage fuses. Where there were in-line fuses I cut them out so as to only have one.
Additional supplies to consider are nylon wire ties and
If you have to work inside the console it is tough to squeeze your shoulders in there. Add some padding to the doorway and get ready to sweat if it is a hot night.
posted 07-31-2006 04:27 PM ET (US)
A little about fuseblocks. Picture a wire dangling in the air attached to something at each end. Then cut that wire and put it back together using a fuse inline with that wire. That's called 'in series'. That gives the wire the oppertunity to melt the fuse instead of itself in the advent of an unexpected high amount of amps (current)applied to that wire. Now picture a bunch of those wires that some engineer had to figure out how to put them together in a nice neat concise manner. That is a fuseblock. Each segment of a fuseblock is a circuit. You have an in and an out with a fuse in the middle. Understanding that, the rest is just logistics. When you look at the old fuseblock and the new fuseblock you will notice they are not physically the same. If the old fuseblock is larger than the new one you may have to fabricate an adpter plate. Or, conversely, you may have to enlargen the hole. Remember, if you were a wire on a terminal strip, the guy you want to connect to is directly across the street, never next door. So mark your wires as you take them off; red in, red out. Blue in, blue out; so on and so forth. Good luck, and I agree with you. The fuseblock needs replacing.
posted 08-01-2006 08:21 AM ET (US)
You sure the engine juice goes through the fuse panel? Mine
doesn't. There's a fuse or two under the cowling.
posted 08-06-2006 10:07 AM ET (US)
I had a similar problem on my 14' Rage. I switched out to circuit breakers. No more carrying fuses or issues with the contacts becomming corroded. I also installed the waterproof boots on them to give them a nice long life. A marine surplus store can probably set you up with an appropriate panel reasonably.
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