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Author Topic:   2007 E-TEC and I-Command Wiring

ratherwhalering posted 08-02-2006 03:04 PM ET (US)
Oh so confusing! But here is my best guess on installation.
Dual Batteries, located in console.
EMM to Hub Harness. Installs inside engine cowling.
Terminator harness. Installs inside engine cowling.
Data harness, from inside engine cowling, 20 feet to Power hub, mounted in console.
Terminator, in power hub.
Power supply harness, from power hub to batteries.
Tachometer harness from power hub to (1) Tachometer and (2)Speedometer.
2-inch instrument harness to other gauges.
Soooooo,
What about the key switch, warning horn, and control box wiring, is this a completely different harness?
ratherwhalering posted 08-02-2006 04:52 PM ET (US)
Answering my own question here, based on the information on this site::
20-foot ignition/Tilt adapter harness for trim switch, key switch, and neutral safety. Part No. 763554
10-foot EMM harness from engine to under gunnel. (763541)
to
8-inch terminator harness (763472)
to
15-foot Data Harness (763556)
to
Power hub in console (763538) with terninator (763363)
Power hub to batteries via power supply harness (763360)
Power hub to Transducer (763440)
Power hub to tachometer/spedometer harness (763358 included with instrument)
Warning horn (763598) attached to tachometer/spedometer harness.
2-inch gauge harness attached to tachometer/spedometer harness (763359 included with instrument)
The only problem is that by substituting the 8-inch terminator harness for the consolidator hub, only one 'N' Duesch connector is left on the power hub.
BRP told me that instead of using the 8-inch terminator harness, I can remove its female Deusch connector, and substitute it for the male Deusch connector on the network data harness, then run this to the consolidator hub, and then to the power hub, gaining three additional input ports.

seahorse posted 08-02-2006 07:21 PM ET (US)
Here are some links that may help you:
http://www.e-tecinfonet.org/id10.html
http://trailerboats.com/output.cfm?id=1092943
ratherwhalering posted 08-03-2006 01:57 AM ET (US)
Thanks Seahorse! I've got it figured out. Actually it is quite simple, something akin to setting up a wireless network on a computer.
seahorse posted 08-03-2006 07:48 AM ET (US)
RatherWhaling posted:
Actually it is quite simple, something akin to setting up a wireless network on a computer.
BINGO !
andygere posted 08-03-2006 11:32 AM ET (US)
Rob,
I installed the following system in my Outrage:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/NMEA2000/ iCommandSingle729x337.png
From memory, it looks like your parts list is correct. Call me at home and I can check my invoice to be sure. I also have the BRP shop manual, and can copy the installation pages for you if you need them. I installed the power hub in the console, and extended the power supply wires back to my battery switch cluster.
Why do you need additional connectors in the hub? Since all the gauges daisy chain from one another, you would need only one additional port if you plan to integrate a plotter, etc.
For the 2" gauges, I selected trim and water pressure, and I am very happy with that choice. Water pressure since I often fish in areas thick with kelp, and have experienced blocked intakes on my old motor from time to time. This is an expensive option, but a good one since it uses an electronic sending unit instead of a fragile bit of water filled tubing as in the conventional style gauges. Also, since the confidence stream from this motor discharges straight back, it's hard to see from the helm. A quick glance at the gauge tells me all is cool. The trim gauge is also quite handy, and allows me to keep my eyes forward when running the boat. I've never had a functional trim gauge on any of my previous boats/motors, and it really is a nice luxury. The resolution on the gauge is quite good.
ratherwhalering posted 08-03-2006 12:14 PM ET (US)
Andy, that's the problem. I'm helping one of our less reputable members with this install, and he's something of a gaget hound. His plotter (Garmin 172) doesn't have tri-ducer capacity, so that function will required in the remaining N1 port. To tie in the GPS, he'll need an additional port, and I suspect he'll want a fuel tank sender, oil tank sensor, water pressure sender,...blah, blah, blah.
I am informed by BRP customer service that the data cable can be modified, as described, to function as an EMM harness extension, thus allowing a straight shot to the power hub in the console, and then use another data cable to add a consolidator hub, thus increasing the number of N1 ports.
andygere posted 08-03-2006 12:55 PM ET (US)
10-4 Rob. As neat as it sounds, I don't see a huge benefit to networking plotters, etc. into the system unless you want to calculate real time miles per gallon. Note that in order to use any of the fuel tank level instruments, you need the speedo in addition to the tach.
mfrymier posted 08-04-2006 05:05 PM ET (US)
"less reputable members"
ouch.
ratherwhalering posted 09-12-2006 01:41 PM ET (US)
I have some new information from BRP.
This makes the project much easier.
If you buy the digital gauges, the consolidator hub and power distribution hubs are not needed.
You just need an EMM harness
Extension harness (to get to the console)
3 T-connectors, in series, with terminators on both ends of the series.
I-Command Digital gauge.
Power harness.
You can just add more T-connectors to the series for fuel sensor, GPS harness, etc.
Cheaper to boot.

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Author	Topic: 2007 E-TEC and I-Command Wiring
ratherwhalering	posted 08-02-2006 03:04 PM ET (US) Oh so confusing! But here is my best guess on installation. Dual Batteries, located in console. EMM to Hub Harness. Installs inside engine cowling. Terminator harness. Installs inside engine cowling. Data harness, from inside engine cowling, 20 feet to Power hub, mounted in console. Terminator, in power hub. Power supply harness, from power hub to batteries. Tachometer harness from power hub to (1) Tachometer and (2)Speedometer. 2-inch instrument harness to other gauges. Soooooo, What about the key switch, warning horn, and control box wiring, is this a completely different harness?
ratherwhalering	posted 08-02-2006 04:52 PM ET (US) Answering my own question here, based on the information on this site:: 20-foot ignition/Tilt adapter harness for trim switch, key switch, and neutral safety. Part No. 763554 10-foot EMM harness from engine to under gunnel. (763541) to 8-inch terminator harness (763472) to 15-foot Data Harness (763556) to Power hub in console (763538) with terninator (763363) Power hub to batteries via power supply harness (763360) Power hub to Transducer (763440) Power hub to tachometer/spedometer harness (763358 included with instrument) Warning horn (763598) attached to tachometer/spedometer harness. 2-inch gauge harness attached to tachometer/spedometer harness (763359 included with instrument) The only problem is that by substituting the 8-inch terminator harness for the consolidator hub, only one 'N' Duesch connector is left on the power hub. BRP told me that instead of using the 8-inch terminator harness, I can remove its female Deusch connector, and substitute it for the male Deusch connector on the network data harness, then run this to the consolidator hub, and then to the power hub, gaining three additional input ports.
seahorse	posted 08-02-2006 07:21 PM ET (US) Here are some links that may help you: http://www.e-tecinfonet.org/id10.html http://trailerboats.com/output.cfm?id=1092943
ratherwhalering	posted 08-03-2006 01:57 AM ET (US) Thanks Seahorse! I've got it figured out. Actually it is quite simple, something akin to setting up a wireless network on a computer.
seahorse	posted 08-03-2006 07:48 AM ET (US) RatherWhaling posted: Actually it is quite simple, something akin to setting up a wireless network on a computer. BINGO !
andygere	posted 08-03-2006 11:32 AM ET (US) Rob, I installed the following system in my Outrage: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/NMEA2000/ iCommandSingle729x337.png From memory, it looks like your parts list is correct. Call me at home and I can check my invoice to be sure. I also have the BRP shop manual, and can copy the installation pages for you if you need them. I installed the power hub in the console, and extended the power supply wires back to my battery switch cluster. Why do you need additional connectors in the hub? Since all the gauges daisy chain from one another, you would need only one additional port if you plan to integrate a plotter, etc. For the 2" gauges, I selected trim and water pressure, and I am very happy with that choice. Water pressure since I often fish in areas thick with kelp, and have experienced blocked intakes on my old motor from time to time. This is an expensive option, but a good one since it uses an electronic sending unit instead of a fragile bit of water filled tubing as in the conventional style gauges. Also, since the confidence stream from this motor discharges straight back, it's hard to see from the helm. A quick glance at the gauge tells me all is cool. The trim gauge is also quite handy, and allows me to keep my eyes forward when running the boat. I've never had a functional trim gauge on any of my previous boats/motors, and it really is a nice luxury. The resolution on the gauge is quite good.
ratherwhalering	posted 08-03-2006 12:14 PM ET (US) Andy, that's the problem. I'm helping one of our less reputable members with this install, and he's something of a gaget hound. His plotter (Garmin 172) doesn't have tri-ducer capacity, so that function will required in the remaining N1 port. To tie in the GPS, he'll need an additional port, and I suspect he'll want a fuel tank sender, oil tank sensor, water pressure sender,...blah, blah, blah. I am informed by BRP customer service that the data cable can be modified, as described, to function as an EMM harness extension, thus allowing a straight shot to the power hub in the console, and then use another data cable to add a consolidator hub, thus increasing the number of N1 ports.
andygere	posted 08-03-2006 12:55 PM ET (US) 10-4 Rob. As neat as it sounds, I don't see a huge benefit to networking plotters, etc. into the system unless you want to calculate real time miles per gallon. Note that in order to use any of the fuel tank level instruments, you need the speedo in addition to the tach.
mfrymier	posted 08-04-2006 05:05 PM ET (US) "less reputable members" ouch.
ratherwhalering	posted 09-12-2006 01:41 PM ET (US) I have some new information from BRP. This makes the project much easier. If you buy the digital gauges, the consolidator hub and power distribution hubs are not needed. You just need an EMM harness Extension harness (to get to the console) 3 T-connectors, in series, with terminators on both ends of the series. I-Command Digital gauge. Power harness. You can just add more T-connectors to the series for fuel sensor, GPS harness, etc. Cheaper to boot.