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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
|Author||Topic: Re-wiring 18-footer|
posted 03-04-2007 11:41 AM ET (US)
Just curious if anyone here has detailed photos of re-wiring their Outrage 18, materials used, breakers used, mounting locations, etc. I've searched through a month's plus posts and have not found too much on this subject.
Getting ready to start this project soon and I'm looking for some ideas. Goal being to keep the inside of the console as clean, neat, and functional as possible. Batteries are already in the console. Current wiring was performed by some guy named Helter Skelter with add-on's over the years resulting in one giant tangle of wires and connections.
I'm replacing the aluminum dash plates with 3/8 thick teak and adding a 6-switch panel on the right side which will control running lights, anchor light, spreader lights, electronics, livewell, and a spare. Bilge pump will remain on its own separate switch and power supply.
|Over the LINE||
posted 03-04-2007 09:12 PM ET (US)
I recently rewired my 18’ Outrage.
1. Removed all old wiring except from bow lights themselves to behind starboard cover panel. Installed buss under this panel to cut down on wires running to console (from six to two). Best picture I have of buss.
2. Bench built new electrical panel on marine plywood. Panel includes battery switch (1-2-Both-Off), Fuse panel, Negative buss, Terminal strip and VHF/FM antenna separator.
3. Bench re-built switch panel for running/anchor lights, compass/dash lights and bilge pump. I used a 5 conductor wire made by Ancor. It is normally for wiring the inside of a sailboat mast but makes for a clean install and is color coded.
4. Installed new wiring for engine to batteries, stern light (included a hard mounted Perko Socket. I hate hanging wires) and bilge pump. No photos of this.
5. Mounted electrical panel, switch panel, stereo and antenna in/on console. Installed console and made all connections.
I used Cole Herssee switches (I like the push pulls). I used mostly Blue Seas parts and Ancor wires. Take your time and cut all the wires to the proper length. Extra length makes for a sloppy install.
posted 03-07-2007 08:54 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the excellent pics of the rewiring of the Outrage. I am preparing to rewire my Newport and welcome this information. Do you happen to have any pics available of the Installation of the new wiring for engine to batteries, stern light (included a hard mounted Perko Socket, and bilge pump. I know you said there were no pics but I thought that may just mean in the photobucket. Perhaps you have pics that are not included in the photobucket album. This is where I am planning on getting started.
|Over the LINE||
posted 03-07-2007 11:01 AM ET (US)
I will not be able to do any more pics for about a week.
The Perko socket is "Deck Connection Cat. No. 1190DPOCHR". It is mounted in the teak vertical piece directly in front of the light pole.
I do not think how I mounted my bilge pump will help you (different boats) but the wiring to the switch is visible in the attached photos (switch is mounted in black switch panel).
I ran 2 ga. wires to the engine through the rigging tunnel. The bundle of wires exiting the rigging tunnel is visible in the first photo.
Look through the whole photobucket page, you may see more to help you.
Also, there are some excellent reference articles on this web site to help with wiring diagrams.
posted 03-07-2007 07:19 PM ET (US)
I am looking for a new way to mount my bilge pumps so photo's will be great. I only have two wires from the bow lights, so curious as to whatelse you have wired to the buss bar under the access pannel? It is a great idea.
|Over the LINE||
posted 03-07-2007 10:01 PM ET (US)
The bus bar has two pair of wires for the bow lights and a pair for the stern light. Then one pair only running from the bus bar to the console.
The bilge pump itself is mounted in a pretty standard position, just inboard of the drain plug in the lowest part of the "bilge". The only weird thing I did was how the pump is routed overboard. I attached the hose to the steering cable and added a ninety degree fitting close to the motor. The ninety directs the water overboard very well.
Sorry for the poor quality pictures
posted 03-07-2007 10:27 PM ET (US)
I've got a quick question.
The bus bar in this picture.. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v442/OTL4343/18%20Outrage/ ?action=view¤t=out120.jpg
|Over the LINE||
posted 03-08-2007 10:22 AM ET (US)
The large bus with four wires links battery negative to the fuse panel negative and the small negative bus. I still have a couple of items I may add and wanted to make sure I had enough negative spaces without having to "piggyback".
The terminal strip is a midpoint between switch and item allowing for easy disconnect to remove console or change part.
posted 03-13-2007 09:53 PM ET (US)
[Made images into in-line images.]
posted 03-13-2007 10:27 PM ET (US)
I do not think there is much difference between wiring an 18-footer and a 25-footer. There are good practices for wiring any outboard powered recreational boat. The manufacturers of boat electrical equipment generally provide good guidance on how to wire a boat. I would recommend following their guidelines.
posted 03-23-2007 06:22 PM ET (US)
Just thought I'd bring this back to the top and thank everyone for all the useful information and Jim for posting the pictures in the thread. Now all I need is to have the snow melt so I can pull the boat around into the driveway to begin the project!
posted 05-04-2007 10:40 AM ET (US)
I have spent a lot of time looking at this particular project, and I have figured everything out except the terminal block that looks to be wired in with the mast assembly wire you used for the push-pulls and some other stuff.
How exactly does that terminal work? I understand the bus bars and the fuse block, but the terminal is over my head. I am going to be rewiring my Outrage as well next week, I just ordered all the necessary parts for it, as well as my VHF and GPS.
|Over the LINE||
posted 05-04-2007 11:50 AM ET (US)
That terminal block is a disconnect point for switched items. From fuse panel to switch, then from switch to terminal and on to device.
From top to bottom:
It was done to primarily to clean up the wiring. It allowed five conductor wire from the switches to join individual and three conductor wire without splices. It also allows easier disconnect in the event the console needs to be removed.
posted 05-05-2007 12:22 AM ET (US)
There is a general rule in electrical wiring practice which requires that only one conductor should be under a terminal post or binding screw. This practice is facilitated by using bus strips with multiple binding screws or binding posts to aggregate common connections. This can be seen in the wiring practice shown in the photographs above.
posted 05-07-2007 12:28 AM ET (US)
Thanks for that snswer Over the Line,
I have been lurking in this thread too. I just copied your setup for my 17 foot boat. I also wondered about the terminal block where the wires just join up on their way to the individual components. It seems redundant unless you want to remove something and leave half the wires intact at the console.
I have a similar yet simpler setup. I have a couple of spare switches on my panel that I have some ideas for. I am thinking of installing a "console" light using those red LED trailer marker lights for night driving. I also have a bait tank with its own set of wires at the stern.
Thanks again for the great photo tutorial on boat wiring. I was able to benefit from the photographs.
|Over the LINE||
posted 05-07-2007 09:51 AM ET (US)
Before you try to convert a trailer light, you may want to look for an LED "courtesy light". You can find some reasonably priced surface mount versions in red and white at most of the standard boat supply stores.
As you can see from the photos, I did most console assembly before installing the console. I did most work with the console lying on its "face?" so I could work on a horizontal surface instead of vertical. Electrically speaking this left only a few connections to be made, at that terminal block, after the console was screwed down.
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