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Author Topic:   Water Pressure Gauge Installaton
Ry8n posted 03-21-2007 06:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for Ry8n   Send Email to Ry8n  
I've seen some threads on installing water pressure guages, but without much detail (or enough in my case). [Seeks a] photo showing where the cooling lines run or guide me in the right direction? I have a 1995 Rage 14 with the 115 OMC jet. I know my way around my Jeep's engine, but I'm a novice with marine applications. Thanks in advance!

PS this is an invaluabe resource for Whaler info!


where2 posted 03-21-2007 07:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
I attached mine using a T fitting in the hose pair that come off the top of each head and join to go as one hose to the muffler. I see 0-2psi at idle, and around 20psi at wide open throttle. My setup is on a 1995 15_Rage with 115Hp OMC.

With the plastic shroud off the top of the engine, peering down in the engine compartment facing the rear of the boat, behind the flywheel, you will see a hose coming from the top of the head on the right, and another from the top of the head on the left. The two hoses join together between the heads and go off to the left to a 90° fitting on the muffler (that large oval contraption on the left nestled into the notch in the grey plastic so it fits inside of the engine compartment).

Tapping into the hose on the left, installing a T fitting, and reconnecting everything, you will see changes in the cooling system pressure as you would expect based on the throttle position.

Whether this is the factory correct position to monitor cooling system pressure, I have not been able to determine. It does give a reference which is what I was interested in.

I am still looking into an accurate way to monitor the head temperature while running to determine when I am nearing an overheating condition. Absolute pressure did not provide all the "warning" I am looking for.

Ry8n posted 03-22-2007 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ry8n  Send Email to Ry8n     
Where2, very helpful description, thank you. I wondered what that oval-shaped monstrosity was. I found the fittings on the cylinder head. My kit comes with either a plastic tee for the hoses, or a brass tee and fittings for the block. I'm leaning toward the brass fittings as there's no modifications involved and the hose is already teed shortly after it leaves the block.

Now as far as the screen to prevent foreign material from entering the cooling system, where would that be located in all of this?

Thanks again!

where2 posted 03-24-2007 12:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
The "Screen to prevent foreign material" (generally called a strainer), is installed between the cooling water inlet flange at the transom and the 90° fitting on the underside of the block.

Looking back into the engine compartment, if you follow that 2" rubber hose that makes a U-turn down on the right side, you will see a single 1/2" hose coming in with two clamps on it. Not the smaller hose going to the plastic fitting, but the larger hose going to a metal fitting right next to the 2" exhaust hose.

That should be your incoming water from the impeller assembly. If you follow that hose, it should disappear under the engine on the right side and go into a 90° fitting on the bottom of the engine.

You want to add the strainer anywhere between those two points. In my boat, I ran it all the way around to the left side of the engine compartment and mounted it up high where I can see what's in it without having to stand on my head. For hose, I used heater hose from the auto parts store since it is gasoline/oil resistent, and cheaper than boat hose.

For a strainer, I bought a Groco and some 90° barbed nylon fittings to go into and out of the strainer. That way the hose is less likely to kink.

If you have more questions, let me know...

jimh posted 03-24-2007 04:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I don't see any electrical nature to this discussion. Is there any?
where2 posted 03-27-2007 09:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
To make the night time illumination work in your water pressure gauge, attach one lead of the light circuit to a suitable grounding cnnection behind the instrument panel. Attach the other lighting lead to the same connection that the running lights use. Wired in this manner, your gauge will light when the running lights are on, but not when you are at anchor.
contender posted 03-28-2007 09:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
I just got a plastic tee and went off the pee outlet of the engine. Ran the tubing up to the gauge and power from the light switch...good luck

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