posted 03-27-2007 11:34 AM ET (US)        

I'm only concerned with removing the engine cover and having the wires on some type of quick-release mechanism. I would like to avoid installing one of those pole mounted lights because of waterskiing lines, and don't want a quick release type. Mounting it on the transom is a possibility, but I don't think the light will be high enough from the surface of the water on my 15' (regulations)

The light is a Lopolight all-around LED, and it is going on an Evinrude E-TEC 75 HP.

posted 03-27-2007 02:27 PM ET (US)            

At that level, your night vision will also be ruined if you glance aft to check for oncoming traffic or whatever in the course of operating the boat.

I'd recommend the standard pole-mounted light that came with the boat. When skiing - this pole should be removed and stowed aboard.

I would also invest in a Perko plastic glare guard on the pole just below the lamp to shield you and your occupants from backscatter when underway at night.

posted 03-27-2007 07:17 PM ET (US)            

I have read of the installation of the sort of lighting you are describing, but I do not think it is in compliance with the regulations.

posted 03-27-2007 10:14 PM ET (US)            

Yes, I bought two, Item numbers 200-003 and 200-012. The only importer of LOPOLIGHTs in the US is about 30 minutes from where I live, in Newport, Rhode Island. Apparently the lights are so good that they are using them on submarines. They gave me a decent price for the lights (its all relative, but i paid over $500 for both). The idea is that once I wire the lights, they will not need any attention for many trouble free years, and they draw very little battery power. Plus they are great looking, but just a little bigger than I expected.

Buckda Dave,

I've had bad luck with those poorly made lights on a pole. The idea is this will be completely out of the way, and require no setting up or taking down to perform tasks.
As for visibility, I have a red/green on the bow, and the 360 degree white on the stern, which yes may not be visible for some if my head were blocking, but it would be the same unless I had one of those ridiculous looking 5 footers with a very small bulb inside. These lights are rated for boats up to about 65' feet, and are visible from 2 nautical miles. Other boats WILL see me.. even if its a 45mph blurr. That is the only thing I'm not worried about. Although, being blinded by the light will most likely occur, you got me there.

jimh,

I will look into the COLREGS, and maybe those describe more in depth what you said... But what do you mean by 'required vertical separation from the sidelights'?

I assume that the white all around stern light must be higher than the red/green affixed to the bow, but how much higher? How would one measure this?

Also, I have no trouble installing a light of this quality onto the cowling of a motor, it would not surprise me if the light actually outlives the engine... LEDs last thousands of hours in any environment, whether its moisture, or vibrations, nothing will stop them...

posted 03-28-2007 12:52 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for that link. It looks like 1(one) meter is the minimum. I don't think the top of my engine is much more than a foot higher than my red/green sidelight. Looks like if I go through with it I could potentially get a violation. I know my harbor master, and for the last 5 years my white stern light only faced backwards, and was mounted on top of my transom, with no problems. This will be much closer to 'legal' placement. Regardless it will be mounted higher than anything else on the boat and will be visible from 360 degrees when my engine is trimmed down. I don't foresee any problems, as most of the boats around here are wood skiffs driven by locals who have very little concern with the law (my father being one) and at best carry a flashlight.

Contender,

If you have any pictures of your light would you mind emailing them to me? I would like to see how you routed the wires inside of the engine cowling specifically. Or second best, describe the wire placement? I don't want them to become tangled in any moving parts. How can I mount them to the cowling without screws? The wires are both housed inside of a coating that would allow me to glue them to the cowling with some type of adhesive. Lastly, your rubber coated connector sounds like the ticket to pull it all together, literally. I'll look for one of those. Thank you,

posted 03-29-2007 08:32 AM ET (US)            

I still insist that the 360 degree light is NOT visible for 360 degrees if you or any passenger is aboard the boat.

Do I think you'll get a ticket? No, I do not.

Honestly, this coming from a guy with 30 extra ponies on the back of his boat...it's more about the liability should there be an accident than it is about the potential to be cited during everyday circumstances. This is a risk calculation that only you can make.

Heaven forbid that something bad happens, but if it does, you could be found at least partially at fault and be responsible for some of the ramifications of whatever happened.

Just throwing it out there.

Good luck!

posted 03-29-2007 12:28 PM ET (US)            

Your information does apply to me, as my 15' is a 1976. Thank you for the good news. After my complete overhaul it may be difficult to convince someone this boat is over 30 years old, though.

Dave, I do sit rather low in the 15' as I have the regular sport seat configuration(slightly modified to lift everything one inch), so i'm not sure how much higher I will be relative to the light, we'll see in a couple weeks. I'm still convinced this will not be an issue, a boat directly in front of me will be able to see both red and green, making it clear that my heading is directly toward them. I hope that I will be able to see them.

posted 03-29-2007 01:13 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

Honestly, this coming from a guy with 30 extra ponies on the back of his boat...

---

posted 03-29-2007 10:43 PM ET (US)            

I can't believe the cost of these LED lamps. They are nice looking lamps, but at $150 per lamp, it is going to cost a bundle to equip a small boat with them.

Generally a small boat like a Boston Whaler SPORT 15 is not operated a great deal of the time after dark. I'd just go with the usual combined sidelights at the bow and have an all-around white light on a pole for the stern that can be rigged when needed.

posted 03-30-2007 12:41 AM ET (US)            

I think you are wrong. While I understand your reasoning, indeed there is some logic to it, I do not believe there is any obligation to update an older boat to new standards. Indeed, I have never heard of such a case.

posted 03-30-2007 12:57 PM ET (US)            

Jim - I've heard boats have been defined as holes in the water for money(or something). Although expensive, this little boat will have very little if any electrical problems with the nav lights. My source told me that these lights are being installed on submarines, where they would spend hours hundreds of feet below the waters surface. I even went so far to buy a completely sealed push/pull switch that prevents water intrusion. Is there a cost to peace of mind?

Where2, I am trying to avoid the pole mounted light, I don't think they are good looking, I'm weary of breaking it off, they never last more than a couple seasons (harsh conditions in Massachusetts). Just out of curiosity: your friends need a ladder to get into a 15'? If you can water ski you'd better be in good enough physical condition to climb over 1' of freeboard. I do not have space for a ladder in my boat, plus with a fresh paint job i wouldn't want to scuff the boat.

posted 04-03-2007 08:19 PM ET (US)            

Where2, frequently my waterskiing trips involve pulling four people at once behind the boat on regular boogie-boards. As you can imagine its pretty crowded... not to mention another 3 people in the boat. It gets pretty wild at times as battles ensue more often than not. Having a brittle aluminum pole would probably be more dangerous, I could easily see someone getting impaled, or at least cut if the pole were to break off. I'll be satisfied with a little light on top of the engine.. very out of the way.

Your ladder is mounted? I'm curious how that works.. Is it off the transom? I've never seen a boat that small with a ladder? If someone very heavy or just two people try to get on the side of my boat at one time the gunnel is almost submerged..

Jimh, at least we're not getting into the electrical systems / electronics of English cars...

posted 04-11-2007 11:53 AM ET (US)            

Now, if somebody is dead set on going after that Buck Rogers look, or something, and has decided that this is more important than the safety of his vessel and those of others, then he is taking a risk and also putting others at risk to do so.

To have a white all-around light with enough vertical separation from the red/green nav lights, many boats use a pole mounted light. These are not built to be terribly sturdy, because they don't have to be. They have but one purpose: to support a small, visible for two miles, white light. Virtually all of the models available are easily removable for daytime stowage. A meter is the minimum; a light tall enough so that it truly can be seen a full 360 degrees is the actual idea.

Water-skiing (or other similar watersport) is definitely not a consideration here because these lights are stowed when not in use, i.e. during the daylight hours of operation. Water-skiing is illegal at night in most (likely all) States, and for good reason: it is dangerously reckless.

Having the same light as a submarine or a 65 foot yacht is not an acceptable reason to stray from the rules that are designed to protect us all from collisions.

posted 04-11-2007 06:41 PM ET (US)            

I suspect that you can simply run the wiring down the cowling and out the front with the fuel hose and battery cables. It should fit. The only thing I'd do is include a loop so you can disconnect it to remove the cowling.

I'd use zip ties and glue zip tie holders to the cowling from the center to the front and down. I would not run the wires along the powerhead (heat and risk of catching moving parts).

I'd inspect the glue bond each year before commissioning to make sure the wires would continue to be secure.

Good luck, and I hope Contender gets photos to you so you can complete your project and get on the water.

One final thing though - consider slowing down a bit at night....no matter how bright your lights are, 45 MPH with other traffic present is TOO FAST at night.

Cheers,

posted 04-20-2007 09:46 PM ET (US)            

Obviously I wouldn't travel at fast speeds while at night. I hope when I said that people understood my intended sarcasm.

posted 04-23-2007 05:21 PM ET (US)            

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/Roswell_Underwood/

Contender, Thanks for your input, it was actually easier than I had anticipated, there weren't many moving parts right under the cowling so the wires are out of the way, and somewhat easy attach and disconnect, we'll see once im on the water though, hopefully my new engine won't need much work!

posted 04-23-2007 09:45 PM ET (US)            

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/Roswell_Underwood/DSC06849.jpg

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/Roswell_Underwood/?

posted 04-23-2007 10:53 PM ET (US)            

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/Roswell_Underwood/?

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/Roswell_Underwood/DSC06849.jpg