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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
OUTRAGE 18 Electrical Re-work Parts
|Author||Topic: OUTRAGE 18 Electrical Re-work Parts|
posted 04-09-2007 02:41 PM ET (US)
I'm reworking the electrical system in my OUTRAGE and will be wiring the batteries in the console. My system will have a BEP mini battery selector switch flush mounted for exterior access as well as a BEP [voltage sensitive relay].
Currently I am leaning towards AGM starting and deep cycle battery duo. I was searching for a dual battery case to recess into the new KING StarBoard console floor but will probably manufacture my own integral box or well from the same material.
I have a few more items to get for this coming weekend so a few questions have come about.
--what gauge wire to connect from the voltage sensitive relay to the batteries?
--what gauge battery cable to run from the 1998 Johnson 150 to the battery?
--what gauge battery cable to connect batteries to house panel and ground bus?
--is KING StarBoard a good material to use for battery boxes?
---Online source for affordable cable and wiring accessories?
|Over the LINE||
posted 04-09-2007 06:19 PM ET (US)
I recently did a rewire on my 18’ OUTRAGE.
I used [2-AWG] gauge wire from my two-stroke 150-HP Mariner carburetor motor to the battery switch. I used [2-AWG] gauge for battery switch to batteries also. I bought two twentyfive-foot spools of [2-AWG] gauge, fittings and an ANCOR hammer-blow crimp tool (locally sorry no supplier suggestions).
I used 10-AWG gauge to connect bus and fuse panel to batteries.
In my opinion, a battery box [made from KING StarBoard] not a good idea. You may do OK with the KING StarBoard but the adhesive? I prefer a box with no joints.
This discussion shows what I did. The two boxes are not too bad. I did cut the tops and boxes to make them a fit a little better.
posted 04-09-2007 08:11 PM ET (US)
The proper size of the wire to use depends on two factors:
--the current carrying capacity of the wire
The current carrying capacity is a rating which depends on the application. For wires which are not in a cable with a bundle and surrounded by more insulation, that is, wires in free air, the current carrying capacity is generally higher.
The voltage drop depends on the length of the conductor and the current being carried. In the case of the outboard motor the manufacturer will usually have a recommendation about the proper size of wire to use depending on the length. If you move the battery away from its most important load and charging source, you will likely need to increase the size of the wiring between battery and motor in order to prevent the voltage drop from becoming excessive. The real concern is during engine cranking, when the current will be very high.
In other branches of the primary wiring you should use a conductor size which is suitable for the current to be carried. In the case of a voltage sensitive relay, the manufacturer of the device will give a recommendation about the current capacity. Use a wire that can handle the maximum current capacity of the device, or whatever the manufacturer recommends.
If you are going to use a sealed battery like a valve-regulated lead-acid absorbent glass mat battery (VRLA AGM), you really do not need a battery box. The purpose of a battery box when using a flooded-cell lead-acid battery is to contain any acid which might be spilled in the event of a rupture of the case or other expulsion of acid from the battery. With an AGM you can generally count on the battery not leaking acid, even if the case is damaged.
If you do not use a battery box, you must still protect the battery terminals and insulate them from contact with other conductors.
posted 04-09-2007 08:21 PM ET (US)
For more information on American Wire Gauge ratings, see
For a calculator to compute voltage drop see
posted 04-17-2007 10:09 AM ET (US)
Anyone happen to know what the proper size of battery wire to use depending on the length for a 1998 OMC 150hp? I don't have any manuals.
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