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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
|Author||Topic: Re-wiring Project|
posted 05-09-2007 10:04 PM ET (US)
It hasn't even been a month of owning my 1983 Outrage 18 and I am starting to rewire it. So I went ahead and spent an obscene amount of money on all Ancor and Blue Seas components. I will also be incorporating a new Garmin 540S and a Standard Horizon Phantom PS1000. Here's the start:
Today I started tearing apart the existing wire, which looked like this:
I am opting to keep the batteries in the splash well so I didn't have to mess with any of the engine wiring. The wiring for the engine wouldn't reach the console so I am going to go with splash well batteries and under-gunwale battery switch mount, on the starboard side.
After gutting all the old wiring that was being replaced, here is what I am left with:
My problem now, is the engine wiring harness is an absolute mess and I cannot figure out how to clean it up. There are splices on every line and I don't know why they do that. Why would you splice every single wire on the engine wiring harness? Can I just cut out all this wiring, shorten it to what fits, and butt all the wires back together? Should I even take it to the Suzuki dealer and find out what I can do about a new harness all together?
posted 05-09-2007 10:09 PM ET (US)
In addition to forgetting to add URL tags, I also forgot to mention my engine is a 1999 Suzuki DT140. When I bought the boat, the tachometer and the temp/oil gauge were inoperative. I am hoping that in re-wiring everything, I may have a chance to get these working again.
|Casco Bay Outrage||
posted 05-10-2007 12:41 PM ET (US)
I rewired my 1991 Outrage 17 last year and can empathize.
Since you already have spent an obscene amount of money, consider buying a new harness. I think a rigging guide (from your dealer) will help you match colors and the wires.
I labeled every wire end prior to disassembly and also did a full wiring diagram. I needed both by the time I got to putting everything back together.
Compared to my boat http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j291/CascoBayOutrage/ Outrage%20Rewire%20project/ , yours actually looks pretty good.
Hope this helps.
posted 05-10-2007 09:27 PM ET (US)
1. I'd be REAL nice to my local Suzuki parts guy. I wouldn't
go see him any time that might be busy. I suspect Mondays,
Fridays, lunch time, and late afternoon are busy.
2. How was the harness spliced? If the splices aren't sealed
with hot melt lined heat shrink, replace them, and you will
likely need to replace the harness too (see below).
3. Do the wires at the splices look like copper, or black
posted 05-10-2007 09:34 PM ET (US)
Now that I see the pictures: UGH. AutoParts/HW store connectors. And a whole bunch of unshrunk heat shrink.
Replace them. I'd do solder and hot melt glue lined heat
Plan things a lot to tuck the wiring out of the way. Right
posted 05-10-2007 11:56 PM ET (US)
I am going to talk to the dealership tomorrow, see how much a new harness would be, and what kind of information they can provide as far as color coding goes.
In the mean time, I am wondering about sending wires from the starboard gunwales (nav lights/VHF coax) to the center console. Is there a good way to run a wire through this passage? Because it has to make 2 bends to get to the console, and right now I am stumped on a way to send new wires through this.
posted 05-11-2007 12:21 AM ET (US)
Many of the connections I see in your photographs are the OEM connections which are common on Japanese outboard motors. They use male-female plug-in connectors with a translucent blue-green cover. The connectors more or less seal themselves when mated together. Those connections are just the typical way the wiring harness from the motor connects to the various gauges, switches, lights, and so forth at the helm dashboard.
There are some red crimp-on splices, too. But most of those look like they are in some other wiring, not the engine harness.
|Casco Bay Outrage||
posted 05-11-2007 12:07 PM ET (US)
To add to Jim's observations above.
My Yamaha's ignition leads, gauges and harness all had these male/female connectors. Some refer to them as "bullet" type.
In my project, all the OEM bullets came apart and did not show much corrosion. I think the clear cover and dielectric grease kept them in good shape.
I really like the bullet type and used them for my new wiring. The bullets I found were crimp type and did not have heat shrink. I added liquid electrical tape over the crimp ends, added dielectric grease and then the clear covers. Pricey but effective.
While I kept my main and ignition harnesses, they are way too long and will probably replace them in the future when I pull my deck and replace my fuel/vent hoses. That project will be next fall.
posted 05-11-2007 01:56 PM ET (US)
I spent a little more time today looking at things and pulling the rest of the electrical tape off the wires. I think I am going to label every wire that is actually being utilized by the tach, temp gauge, ignition, kill switch, and motor trim. Then take every wire that is NOT being used and just cut it out of the current mess. Then I can go back through what I have labeled, cut and reconnect all the wires to the necessary length.
I did contact Diamond Suzuki here in New Smyrna Beach, FL about the harness. I found out that they do not perform ANY maintenance on the 2 strokes anymore. They also told me that they do not have any literature for the wiring harness or color codings, other than what you can find in a service manual, which I do not have. I was very disappointed because I heard a lot of great things about that particular dealership.
|JR in NJ||
posted 05-13-2007 08:26 AM ET (US)
I have the exact same engine, same year. I can take pictures of the wiring to the tach and oil temp gauge, which are attached even though the motor isn't currently mounted. I also have the Seloc Repair manual which has a wiring diagram and may be more helpful. I'll scan the pages and send them over.
posted 05-14-2007 09:33 AM ET (US)
Jim, that would be fantastic if you could show me a diagram of the wiring. What I really need to see right now is what needs to get power. Because I am pretty sure that both the tach and the temp/oil gauge need to have a power source other than the main power that goes to the engine from the batteries.
I am moving right along, I finally got the battery switch installed and cleaned up all the wires in the aft.
I plugged in the GPS and the VHF, that worked. The NAV lights worked. The motor trim at the throttle worked as well.
Here are some pictures of the wiring harness. I just opted to clean it up a little bit and get rid of some of the bad connectors.
I redid the NAV lights as well, and soldered and sealed on a new wire running to the console.
I cannot say enough good things about ANCOR products. The heat shrink tubing that they manufacture is pretty amazing, as well as the heat shrink ring terminals. The adhesive that puts the final seal at the ends of the tubing seems to work very well.
|JR in NJ||
posted 05-16-2007 10:03 AM ET (US)
Unfortunately my motor is sitting in the garage and the gauges are not attached to the harness(I thought they were). I did find these threads on wiring the tach, which may be of some help, if you haven't found them already.
Good luck and keep posting as others will follow,
posted 05-17-2007 01:01 PM ET (US)
Thx for your time to pix/post.
Nice work, inspiring.
I only need TIME to start on my 19 rewire project.
Im too dumb to remember a wire code (what each color means), so,
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