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Author Topic:   Electrical Panel
Ferryman posted 08-11-2007 12:34 PM ET (US)   Profile for Ferryman   Send Email to Ferryman  
To get Post Production CE certification on my 170 Montauk. one of the requirements is a battery isolator switch.

Having looked at the various options I decided to go for a twin battery isolator as I intend fitting a second battery later on.

The problem was how should I fix the Isolator to the console.

I did not like the idea of drilling 4 holes in the console and just bolting the isolator to the GRP.

My solution is to make a distribution board from a piece of 12" X 6" X 3/8" marine ply.

I plan to mount the Isolator, Busbar and a 6 way fuse block.

I would welcome other peoples experience on mounting battery isolators.

Now I just need to figure out how to fill and finish the redundant screw holes in the top of the console where I removed the Humminnbird Matrix 27 which I am replacing with a Garming GPS/Fishfinder etc.

jimh posted 08-11-2007 01:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
My battery switch is through-bolted to a fiberglass panel. The switch is on the interior side of the panel (in the stern compartment of my boat, a REVENGE 22 W-T WD). Fiberglass is a fine electrical insulator, at least at 12-volt DC potential.
Chuck Tribolet posted 08-12-2007 12:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Filling the screw holes is relatively easy. Just search this
site on Spectrum Gelcoat.


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