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Author Topic:   Bow/Anchor Light Problem - Outrage
cindalyn posted 01-01-2008 10:55 PM ET (US)   Profile for cindalyn   Send Email to cindalyn  
I'm having a problem with the anchor & bow lights on a 1993 Outrage I recently pruchased. I'm suspicious that the wires on the rocker switch may be attached incorrectly. The one position on the switch turns on the bow light - no problem. The other position (NAV Lights - Bow & Anchor) on the switch immediately pops the breaker.

When I disconnect the gray & gray with white stripe on Right Top Terminal (RT) [see below] the bow light continues to work in the one position and the breaker in the other position does NOT pop and the anchor light still does not work.

The anchor light is connected to a black wire and a gray wire with a white stripe. I have continuity on each of these wires (from the switch to the light) and they are not shorted across each other.

On the rocker switch there are six screws. Looking at the back of the switch (anchor-left, NAV- right)I'll reference each screw as follows:

Left Top (LT) - 2 light blue wires jumpered to (LB) with short gray wire*

Center Top (CT) - 1 red wire

Right Top (RT) - 1 gray wire w/ white stripe jumpered to (CB) with another short gray wire**

Left Bottom (LB) - 1 gray wire jumpered to (LT) with another short gray wire*

Center Bottom (CB) - 1 gray jumper to (RT) with short Gray wire**

Right Bottom (RB) - 1 black wire

Can anyone tell me if this is wired correctly. It doesn't look right but I'm not sure how to reconnect it.

I ASSUME that the RED wire is (++, the BLACK wire is (-), the GRAY w/ WHITE Stripe is the anchor light and the Light BLUE wires are the bow light. Is this correct. Why are there 2 light blue wires? These wires are all in a harness and appear to be original.

Does anyone have a schematic for the 17' Outrage? I'd imagine the 18' and possible other models are wired the same.

Thanks

Casco Bay Outrage posted 01-02-2008 11:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Casco Bay Outrage  Send Email to Casco Bay Outrage     
Ron -

I don't believe there is a standard wiring diagram for the older whalers. Through the years, owner/yards tend to change accessories and often the appropriate color code is not used. When troubleshooting my classic Montauk and Outrage 17, I ended up rewiring both. What a mess they both were.

Is this one of the 3 position pull switches or a 3 position rocker (modern style) switch?

Have you checked the wire at the stern light? How about the light socket? Any splices in the stern near the light bracket. I had a splice 1' from the light and it was a poor connection. I redid the butt connectors and sealed it.

Any photos of your Outrage 17?

CBO

cindalyn posted 01-02-2008 05:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for cindalyn  Send Email to cindalyn     
CAsco Bay - thanks for the reply.
This is the 3 position rocker switch ON-OFF-ON and I'm pretty certain the wiring is original since the individual wires are coming from a tied wire harness.

I did check the light socket and connections and found no apparent problems. There is no break in the wires and they are not shorted. I'm pretty certain a wire is connected to the wrong terminal on the rocker switch but not positive.

I'll send some pictures to your Yahoo address.

Chuck Tribolet posted 01-02-2008 06:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
ABYC color code from http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html :

Blu - Instrument & General Lighting
Gry - Running Lights
Gry/Wht - Anchor lights.
Red - Battery Feeds
Blk - Grounds - General

This is exactly the set of wires that would be involved.

It sounds like you have a Double-Pole, Double-Throw, Center-OFF
switch. Throw it one way and CT connects to LT, and CB
connects to LB. Throw it the other way and CT connects to
RT and CB connects to RB.

The breaker pops because the circuit is as follows:
CT switched to CR jumpered to CB switched to CR
That shorts 12V to ground. POP!.


Here's how I'd rewire it:

Red to CT and CB.
Gry and Blu to LT
Gry/Wht to LB and RB

If there's an odd seventh screw, connect black to that,
it's the ground for the pilot light, but only connect it
after you get the lights running. (Electrons respect baby
steps!)


Chuck

Chuck Tribolet posted 01-09-2008 01:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
cindalyn: Any progress?


Chuck

cindalyn posted 01-10-2008 12:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for cindalyn  Send Email to cindalyn     
I got all the lights working properly. Thanks for all the help.

I'm going to add a kill switch now. From all the posts and the research section it looks to be pretty simple i.e. just connect the switch to the magneto and ground - right?
If correct, the switch has to be normally open - correct?

Also the boat has 2 bilge pumps. The one connected to the "Bilge" switch works OK. The other one doesn't work and I haven't had time to trace out the circuit but it 'looks' like it's tied into the other pump. If I determine the pump is working, wouldn't it make more sense to wire it to the 'accessory' switch which doesn't appear to have anything 'working' from it but wires are connected. I'll have to trace these out also.

It looks like the pump was intented for the livewell but no hoses were connected to the livewell.

This boat was rewired several times and old wires were left connected to switches and cut off under the floor which isn't easily accessable so it's been a bit time consuming.


Chuck Tribolet posted 01-10-2008 09:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
For the kill switch, get the factory service manual for the
motor and wire it that way. What motor?

Does it have more than one Accessory switch? You'll need one
for the VHF, GPS, fishfinder, etc.


Chuck

cindalyn posted 01-10-2008 11:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for cindalyn  Send Email to cindalyn     
The motor is a 1999 Evinrude (Suzuki).

I only have one accessory switch.

Currently I only have a fishfinder which is hooked up directly to the +/- buss via a fuse. I have to use the on/off switch on the FF to use it.

At some point I will be adding a VHS radio and GPS.

It sounds like you're telling me to attach the FF, GPS & radio to the Accessory switch which, of course, goes through a breaker and has an 'on' indicator light.

Chuck Tribolet posted 01-10-2008 04:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Yes, I'm suggesting you attach the FF, GPS & radio to the Accessory switch. Have you got space to install an second
bilge pump switch?


Chuck

cindalyn posted 01-10-2008 07:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for cindalyn  Send Email to cindalyn     
Yes, installing additional switches is a possibility.

I'm new to saltwater (fishing from a boat) and was thinking that the FF would be used when the radio, GPS and other accessories wouldn't be necessary. If I attach the FF to the accessory switch then all the equipment would be running and drawing on the battery. That's why I wired it to the buss and use the FF switch.

Is my logic flawed?

Chuck Tribolet posted 01-11-2008 03:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
If you wire them all to the Acc switch, you can turn them all
off at once when get home. And KNOW they are off and not
draining your battery. If you just want to run some of them,
just don't turn them on.

BTW, if you have a VHR radio you are required to monitor Ch. 16.
And besides, you might just hear where they are biting.


Chuck

JMARTIN posted 01-11-2008 05:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for JMARTIN  Send Email to JMARTIN     
Having the GPS on is nice when you are fishing also. Hit the "Man Overboard" button when you get a fish on and you can come back to the same spot. John
cindalyn posted 01-12-2008 11:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for cindalyn  Send Email to cindalyn     
Interesting comments. I'm sold!

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