Pump Wiring, Pump Location: Boston Whaler MONTAUK

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Author Topic:   Pump Wiring, Pump Location: Boston Whaler MONTAUK

grocks posted 02-24-2008 01:19 AM ET (US)
[I plan to] install a small pump in the [cockpit sump] area on my Boston Whaler Montauk. The problem is that area is somewhat congested with cables. Is there a standard area to install the pump? Is there a standard procedure to installing a electric pump? Can I wire it through the [rigging] tunnel to my battery which is in the center console?
Chuck Tribolet posted 02-24-2008 10:02 AM ET (US)
Which Montauk, the recent 17'0" or the 16'7" classic?
With the 16'7" classic, at the aft end of the tunnel, the
cables tend to be pushed to the port side of the boat, so
the place to put the pump is on the starboard side of the
tunnel, under the forward part of the access hatch. The Rule
500 GPH pump fits nicely (at least on mine) with maybe 1/4"
of clearance on top. Build a then "hat" for the pump so the
access hatch holds it down (assuming your hatch is screwed
down). Yes, you can wire it through the tunnel, in fact,
there may already be wire in the tunnel, though it may
be corroded beyond use by now.
I like the Rule smart pumps. They run for a few seconds, and
then shut off if there's no load.
Use hose with a smooth inside. It flows a noticeably better
volume than the cheap corrugated on the inside stuff. Route
it up and over the transom. Terminated it over the side,
but well above the water line.
On the 17'0", it's also possible, but I don't remember the details.

Chuck
jimh posted 02-24-2008 12:31 PM ET (US)
The electrical details on installing a cockpit sump pump are shown in an article in the REFERENCE section. See
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/bilgePump.html
The small centrifugal pumps often used in this application have very poor ability to self-prime or lift water into the pump, so the pumps have to be installed in the deepest part of the sump area so that they will always be covered with water.
The usual location for a cockpit sump pump in a Boston Whaler MONTAUK is in the deepest part of the cockpit sump, which is at the rear of the rigging tunnel. Most of the small centrifugal pumps can be mounted to the deck there. Be sure to use proper sealing techniques on the mounting screws so that water will not have ingress into the hull.
It is common practice to run electrical wiring through the rigging tunnel. There is really no other path for electrical wiring to pass from the center console to the stern on a Boston Whaler MONTAUK.
grocks posted 02-25-2008 12:53 AM ET (US)
Thanks to both of you for your great replies. Chuck--you talk about making a hat. I am confused.
Yes, I have a 1989 Montauk with tan interior.
[Shifted the topic to one which is not related small boat electrical systems. To discuss soaps and cleaning agents, please use the REPAIRS/MODS discussion. The SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL discussion is focused only on electrical or electronic topics--jimh]
Chuck Tribolet posted 02-25-2008 10:21 AM ET (US)
There's about 1/4" between the top of the pump and the bottom
of the hatch. A hat, about that thick, will hold the pump in
place without drilling any holes in an area that's always wet.

Chuck
Newtauk1 posted 02-25-2008 11:02 AM ET (US)
A small dab of matineTex will hold the bas down as well. I have found that I can wedge he rule500 pump in between rigging wires and securing it that way. Avoid drill this area if possible.
DeeVee posted 02-25-2008 09:30 PM ET (US)
I used an Atwood 400 GPH automatic pump in my old Sakonnet. It was a little larger than the regular pumps. It fit in the sump rather tightly with all the other rigging.
I wired it with a standard on/off switch. When I turned it on, if there was not enough water to actuate the float switch, it would stay off. It came on as a normal pump if the water level was high enough.
I used enough wire so that the pump could be lifted out of the sump for cleaning or when adding/removing other rigging.
When bay fishing, I would install the boat plug from the outside. When fishing the ocean, I would install the plug from the inside. In an emergency, if the boat took on water beyond the capacity of the pump, I could quickly evacuate water from the boat by removing the plug and pulling ahead as quickly as possible.
This was a very simple system that worked great for 15 years. I think I replaced the pump once in that time.
Doug
roloaddict posted 02-26-2008 12:11 AM ET (US)
You will want to be able to access the pump for cleaning and repair. My observation over the years has been that there is a high probability that any debris or gunk in the boat will end up in the pump and need to be removed at the most inconvenient time.
John
JMARTIN posted 02-26-2008 12:30 AM ET (US)
I am putting in a Rule 500 but not the smart one, this weekend. We got something like a float switch but it senses the water. It is tight in there. My main concern was still being able to get the plug out in a hurry just in case we take on a "boat load" of water.
Whats with the rigging tunnel anyhow? It's got a lip on it that prevents some of the water in it from draining into the bilge. John
roloaddict posted 02-27-2008 12:35 AM ET (US)
In response to my dislikes of the pump mounting locations on the classic Whaler, this is how I have addressed this issue.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24237893@N08/

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Author	Topic: Pump Wiring, Pump Location: Boston Whaler MONTAUK
grocks	posted 02-24-2008 01:19 AM ET (US) [I plan to] install a small pump in the [cockpit sump] area on my Boston Whaler Montauk. The problem is that area is somewhat congested with cables. Is there a standard area to install the pump? Is there a standard procedure to installing a electric pump? Can I wire it through the [rigging] tunnel to my battery which is in the center console?
Chuck Tribolet	posted 02-24-2008 10:02 AM ET (US) Which Montauk, the recent 17'0" or the 16'7" classic? With the 16'7" classic, at the aft end of the tunnel, the cables tend to be pushed to the port side of the boat, so the place to put the pump is on the starboard side of the tunnel, under the forward part of the access hatch. The Rule 500 GPH pump fits nicely (at least on mine) with maybe 1/4" of clearance on top. Build a then "hat" for the pump so the access hatch holds it down (assuming your hatch is screwed down). Yes, you can wire it through the tunnel, in fact, there may already be wire in the tunnel, though it may be corroded beyond use by now. I like the Rule smart pumps. They run for a few seconds, and then shut off if there's no load. Use hose with a smooth inside. It flows a noticeably better volume than the cheap corrugated on the inside stuff. Route it up and over the transom. Terminated it over the side, but well above the water line. On the 17'0", it's also possible, but I don't remember the details. Chuck
jimh	posted 02-24-2008 12:31 PM ET (US) The electrical details on installing a cockpit sump pump are shown in an article in the REFERENCE section. See http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/bilgePump.html The small centrifugal pumps often used in this application have very poor ability to self-prime or lift water into the pump, so the pumps have to be installed in the deepest part of the sump area so that they will always be covered with water. The usual location for a cockpit sump pump in a Boston Whaler MONTAUK is in the deepest part of the cockpit sump, which is at the rear of the rigging tunnel. Most of the small centrifugal pumps can be mounted to the deck there. Be sure to use proper sealing techniques on the mounting screws so that water will not have ingress into the hull. It is common practice to run electrical wiring through the rigging tunnel. There is really no other path for electrical wiring to pass from the center console to the stern on a Boston Whaler MONTAUK.
grocks	posted 02-25-2008 12:53 AM ET (US) Thanks to both of you for your great replies. Chuck--you talk about making a hat. I am confused. Yes, I have a 1989 Montauk with tan interior. [Shifted the topic to one which is not related small boat electrical systems. To discuss soaps and cleaning agents, please use the REPAIRS/MODS discussion. The SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL discussion is focused only on electrical or electronic topics--jimh]
Chuck Tribolet	posted 02-25-2008 10:21 AM ET (US) There's about 1/4" between the top of the pump and the bottom of the hatch. A hat, about that thick, will hold the pump in place without drilling any holes in an area that's always wet. Chuck
Newtauk1	posted 02-25-2008 11:02 AM ET (US) A small dab of matineTex will hold the bas down as well. I have found that I can wedge he rule500 pump in between rigging wires and securing it that way. Avoid drill this area if possible.
DeeVee	posted 02-25-2008 09:30 PM ET (US) I used an Atwood 400 GPH automatic pump in my old Sakonnet. It was a little larger than the regular pumps. It fit in the sump rather tightly with all the other rigging. I wired it with a standard on/off switch. When I turned it on, if there was not enough water to actuate the float switch, it would stay off. It came on as a normal pump if the water level was high enough. I used enough wire so that the pump could be lifted out of the sump for cleaning or when adding/removing other rigging. When bay fishing, I would install the boat plug from the outside. When fishing the ocean, I would install the plug from the inside. In an emergency, if the boat took on water beyond the capacity of the pump, I could quickly evacuate water from the boat by removing the plug and pulling ahead as quickly as possible. This was a very simple system that worked great for 15 years. I think I replaced the pump once in that time. Doug
roloaddict	posted 02-26-2008 12:11 AM ET (US) You will want to be able to access the pump for cleaning and repair. My observation over the years has been that there is a high probability that any debris or gunk in the boat will end up in the pump and need to be removed at the most inconvenient time. John
JMARTIN	posted 02-26-2008 12:30 AM ET (US) I am putting in a Rule 500 but not the smart one, this weekend. We got something like a float switch but it senses the water. It is tight in there. My main concern was still being able to get the plug out in a hurry just in case we take on a "boat load" of water. Whats with the rigging tunnel anyhow? It's got a lip on it that prevents some of the water in it from draining into the bilge. John
roloaddict	posted 02-27-2008 12:35 AM ET (US) In response to my dislikes of the pump mounting locations on the classic Whaler, this is how I have addressed this issue. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24237893@N08/