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Author Topic:   Identifying connector type on ignition wires
Frank O posted 04-27-2008 11:38 AM ET (US)   Profile for Frank O   Send Email to Frank O  
Yesterday while slinging dive gear around the deck of my 1995 Outrage 21, a scuba tank unfortunately made a close pass by the console. This sheared off the ignition key for my 1994 Mercury Offshore 3.0-liter 225HP 2-stroke.

Fortunately, there was enough of the key in the lock so that by pressing the key handle against it and turning I was able to start and run the engine. Back at the slip, I removed the ignition switch from the console and found that there is a hole in the side of the switch body that allowed getting the broken end of the key out. Since I have a second key, it wasn't too disastrous. (However, it prompted me to photocopy the page from my Merc manual that has the wiring diagram for the ignition switch and carry it in my boat satchel so that I'm better-prepared to hotwire the engine if ever required in the future.)

While removing the ignition switch, I noticed that a number of its wire connectors had been jury-rigged or taped, and really need to be fixed. The better-looking original connectors on the ignition wires were this type:

The insulation on the male and female sides combine to provide decent corrosion protection. (At least the contacts look clean to me after 14 years.)

So, I need to buy a few more of these. I'm not 100% sure what they're called, though. Are these "snap plugs"? If not, what?

Also, is the wire usually attached by crimping? If not, how?

Bella con23 posted 04-27-2008 12:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bella con23  Send Email to Bella con23     
I think this may be what your looking for.
http:/ / www. ancorproducts. com/ scpt/ SectionPage. php?loadSubs=Ancor_ TERMINALS%20AND%20CONNECTORS_SPLASH%20PROOF%20SNAP%20PLUGS
Frank O posted 04-27-2008 12:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
Chuck Tribolet posted 04-27-2008 09:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Go get another key. There's usually only a dozen or two,
so take the remaining key and the boat so you can checkit.
It's likely a Merc part and not a whaler part.


Frank O posted 04-27-2008 09:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
Good idea, Chuck, in fact that was my plan. The key has one of the standard Merc number-letter codes, and I gather from browsing past posts here that it's one of the common ones. I'm hoping the local dealer might have some in a drawer.

Frank O posted 05-03-2008 04:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Frank O  Send Email to Frank O     
By the way, I noticed that although most of the wires on the ignition switch use these snap plugs, which have kept the connections corrosion-free over many years, two of them do not:

The black wire on the ignition switch (which I gather is ground) terminates in a small ring connector, and the yellow/red wire (which looks to be part of the starter circuit) terminates in a female tab connector.

Can anyone speculate on the rationale for going with these different connector types? These two connections ended up considerably corroded, as opposed to the very clean connections that used snap plugs.

Chuck Tribolet posted 05-03-2008 10:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Actually, if I was going to get another key, I'd get two.
Keep one in the truck, one on the boat, and the third
whereever you keep your primary key.

The ring connector on ground makes sense -- it's going to go
to a screw terminal strip under the console that provides
ground to everything.

As far as the other goes, dunno.


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