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  Turn Key--Get Faint Click Under Cowling

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Author Topic:   Turn Key--Get Faint Click Under Cowling
Newtauk1 posted 06-10-2008 09:43 AM ET (US)   Profile for Newtauk1   Send Email to Newtauk1  
When turning key [on my 2001 Mercury 75-HP electrical start ignition switch] all I hear is a faint clicking sound under the cowling. This problem has become worse over the last three days; it takes more and more turns of the key to get juice. The battery is charged. I have a Morse MT2 control without a lanyard. Is this a wiring problem at the control or a starter problem on the motor?
seabob4 posted 06-09-2008 07:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for seabob4  Send Email to seabob4     
First thing is to tighten all connections to the starter and ground lead from the battery on the powerhead. Make sure your battery terminals are TIGHT. Check your battery voltage as well as the voltage at the starter. Outboard motor starters aren't cheap, so you hope that is not the [cause of the problem]. It's not your neutral safety circuit, so even if you bypassed it, wouldn't make a difference. Try the suggestions and reply back.
Newtauk1 posted 06-09-2008 07:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
[T]hanks. [W]ill do.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 06-09-2008 08:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Casco Bay Outrage  Send Email to Casco Bay Outrage     
John--I had a flaky starting [problem] on my older Yamaha two-cycle; it would turn over and over and took a long time. Turned out to be a splice in the battery cable. Check your cable to ensure there is no splice. While the factory gives a four-foot tail, often [someone] crimps on an extension. The connection was a poor crimp wrapped in electrical tape and corroded over time. I replaced my cable with a fat AWG-OO direct to the console. Fired up so quickly, it scared me.

Also, if you are using ring connectors for the battery connection, I would change those to the automotive style connectors.

C B O

Newtauk1 posted 06-09-2008 11:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
Thanks Phil. I am using ring connectors. I will clean and tighten everything tomorrow.
Newtauk1 posted 06-09-2008 11:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
PS . To be clear. On the turns of the key that the motor does not start it does not engage the starter at all. When it does connect the motor fires right up.
Sebash4 posted 06-10-2008 09:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sebash4  Send Email to Sebash4     
Sounds like a starter bendix to me. I had the same problem and after applying a little grease to the bendix it engaged everytime.
jimh posted 06-10-2008 09:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
There are two distinct circuits involved in engine cranking. The low-current circuit runs through a fuse, the remote key switch, the neutral safety switch, to the solenoid coil, and thence to ground (or battery negative).

The high-current circuit runs from the battery, to the solenoid, to the starter motor, to ground (or battery negative).

If you hear a faint click it is probably the solenoid coil operating. This means the low-current circuit is working. If you do not get engine cranking after the solenoid operates, the problem is in the high-current circuit.

Newtauk1 posted 06-11-2008 12:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
What should I check on the high current circuit?
jimh posted 06-11-2008 07:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The high-current circuit runs from the battery, to the solenoid, to the starter motor, to ground (or battery negative).
jimh posted 06-11-2008 09:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
See:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/electricStart.html

Newtauk1 posted 06-11-2008 05:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
Battery checks out. I tested with a Snap On Tool Battery load tester. I cleaned all connections and checked the Neutral safety switch on the MT2. Having marina look at it tomorrow as I am out of town. They are leaning towards a bad solenoid based on my findings. Thanks for the help. I am a bit clueless with electrical problems.
Newtauk1 posted 06-11-2008 07:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
Jim H-Great Reference article. Thanks.
Chuck Tribolet posted 06-11-2008 11:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Faint clicking sound:

If it works some of the time it's not a wire routing problem.
It could be a bad connection.

First guess would be a bad solenoid or connections. I'd put a
good DVM (digital volt meter) across the output side of the
the solenoid and ground. If it shows 12ish volts, the
problem is on the high current side. If it doesn't, the
problem is PROBABLY (no guarantees) on the low current side.


Chuck

Newtauk1 posted 06-11-2008 11:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
With the cowling off the clicking sound was distinct. Motor would not start at all today. The problem clearly has become worse. Again, marina mechanic is on the job tomorrow. I am out of town for the weekend so no missed time on the water.
Newtauk1 posted 06-12-2008 12:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
Chuck-Marine mechanic is leaning towards a bad solenoid based of my reports to him. He's on it Thursday.
Newtauk1 posted 06-13-2008 01:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1  Send Email to Newtauk1     
[The problem was remedied by replacement of the] solenoid.

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