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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Moving the battery to the console of a 1991 17' Outrage
|Author||Topic: Moving the battery to the console of a 1991 17' Outrage|
posted 03-11-2010 01:29 PM ET (US)
I was looking at my calander for April and noticed that I was going to have some free time to spend working on my boat. One thing I've been meaning to do is move the battery from starboard box up to the console. Is there anything I need to be careful of during this project? Will the floor be strong enough to support the weight of the battery? Should I reinforce the floor with some starboard or plywood?
Thanks for the info.
posted 03-11-2010 02:32 PM ET (US)
If yours is anything like my slightly older Outrage, the console has its own floor several inches above the deck. This floor is not strong enough to carry the weight of batteries. Cut holes in the console floor so that the battery boxes rest directly on the deck or on Dri-Deck or something similar that is placed on the deck to allow for drainage.
posted 03-11-2010 06:52 PM ET (US)
This project is on my to do list as you know.
You have 2 choices, support the floor underneath or cut it and have the battery sit on the deck.
I plan to cut my console floor since I don't want to loose any space and want the weight on the deck.
I need to clean out the dead wiring that the re-power guys left in the tunnel and replace hoses so I will be removing the console and lifting the deck.
I plan panel mount a BEP battery switch to the electronics box floor for easy access.
I will be using 4 AWG tinned battery wire.
Work scheduled to start next week.
posted 03-11-2010 08:06 PM ET (US)
I have a 17' Outrage and recently put 2 batteries inside the console. They are 825 Cranking Amperes but I'm not certain of the group size. The battery case is the larger of the two that are sold at WalMart and most boating stores.
The two batteries fit perfectly and leave enough room for an accessory box as shown in the picture.
I'd recommend making a cardboard template with very accurate measurements - you need every inch you can get. Remember: 1) The bottom of the battery box has a draft i.e., it's slightly wider at the top than the bottom. 2) there may be a flange on the shield around the cables coming up through the floor - make allowance for it. 3) the space taken by any protursions in the front & sides of the console such as for the fire extinguisher or "glove box" must be considered. 4) the TOP lid of the battery case IS LARGER than the bottom where the battery sits. Allow room for the protrusions.
Make your cutout for the bottom of the box so it fits snuggly. Doing this wil easily allow you to grab the battery handle and slide it up and out. It's much easier to get the battery in and out of the box than I expected.
When I wired the 2 batteries to a battery switch I just cut a notch in the lid of the battery box for the negative cable that goes from one battery to another. Remember to put your batteries in so the negative posts of both batteries are toward the bow to facilitate wiring.
This is a great setup and really helped with the weight distribution.
The pictures don't show it but I cut holes in the floor of the console and the batteries fit perfectly.
posted 03-11-2010 08:44 PM ET (US)
Your inquiry is more related to a REPAIR/MOD of a Boston Whaler than to any electrical discussion.
posted 03-12-2010 09:25 AM ET (US)
If your batteries are getting a little long in the tooth you may want to consider replacing them with AGMs as part of the project.
It's very nice to have batteries that never need water. The terminals on mine have never needing cleaning probably due to no gassing residue escaping to the atmosphere. AGMs may also be mounted on their sides if that is useful for saving space in the console.
This could also be a good time to mount an in-console battery charger which is also a very handy accessory. If you are not yet ready for one your design layout could allow for future mounting of a charger. That's my next electrical project.
posted 03-13-2010 01:50 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the suggestions, I just need to decide which way to go with the installation. The battery I have now is about 3 years old, since I'm going to be doing the upgrade, it does make sense to replace that as well. The nice thing is I'll have about 2 days, weather permitting to work on my "upgrades" before the season starts. Turns out my wife's spring break ends 2 days before mine, so if I knock out the honey do list, I should be in business. I never thought about having a second battery installed with a switch, never thought I needed it, the fish finder doesn't draw that much power.
I really don't want to cut the floor of the console, I might change my mind once I get started, but we'll see. I have a couple of thoughts I'm thinking about before I get to that next step. My main concern is I have one of those battery clips on the terminals with 3 wire connections. I want to make sure that everything I cut at the stern gets reconnected in the console. I'm not ready to do a complete re-wire yet!
Phil, when your done, could you email me a few pictures of process. I'd g reatly appreciate it.
Thanks again for the assistance!
one last question, whats the main difference between the AGM and the Optima batteries?
posted 03-13-2010 02:23 PM ET (US)
An Optima battery IS an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery. Its construction differs somewhat from other AGM batteries and Optima claims increased vibration resistance as a result. I do not necessarily believe all the marketing hype, but I am a believer in AGM batteries and Optima makes one of the best. Others have posted good results with Cabelas ProAngler series. Having said that, be prepared for the deluge of posts with arguments to the contrary.
If you often use your electronics without the motor running you should consider getting a dual purpose battery rather than a starting battery. Starting batteries do not tolerate discharge cycles very well. Also, be sure your charger is compatible with an AGM battery because they do not like to be overcharged.
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