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Author Topic:   Mounting Large-Screen Electronics On Small Consoles
Basshole posted 06-29-2010 12:15 PM ET (US)   Profile for Basshole   Send Email to Basshole  
With the increasing size of marine electronic displays I am curious to see what other Boston Whaler boat owners are doing to mount them. I just bought a Lowrance HDS-10 and it certainly won't fit in the electronics box of my [1998 Boston Whaler Conquest 21]; my HDS-7 does. I was thinking of Ram=mounting the HDS-10 somewhere on the console. I would really appreciate some pictures of what you guys have done with your electronics mounts. Thanks.
SJUAE posted 06-29-2010 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE  Send Email to SJUAE     
Before I re-arranged my dash I did several mock ups in excel using images taken from the web sites and a photo I had of my dash. In this album you can see them, the final and the actual almost finished in the workshop.

http://s707.photobucket.com/albums/ww76/SJUAE/Lowrance%20HDS5/

I found this a good way to visualise the best layout to suit me. If you’re not good at this sort of thing email the images and photos you have and I’ll send a file back for you to play with.

Regards
Steve

David Pendleton posted 06-29-2010 08:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
Here are two Raymarine displays mounted in the upper electronics box of a 23 Conquest.

These aren't my pictures. I received them from a CW user many years ago when I was facing the same dilemma as you. I don't even remember his name, so if these are your pictures, please take credit for them.

http://home.comcast.net/~davepen/images/other/dscn1578.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~davepen/images/other/dscn1579.jpg

This one is mine and is the same size display. My mounting system isn't nearly as elaborate as above, but the end result is the same. I mounted the yoke bracket directly to the electronics box. It's a bit of a pain and I can't close the electronics box cover, but it works and was an easy solution.

http://home.comcast.net/~davepen/images/other/dsc00626.jpg

Basshole posted 06-30-2010 03:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Thanks guys!

Steve, great idea with the mock ups. You can really visualize the different configurations before drilling holes and fishing wires. I have to see what pics I already have. I may have to take a trip out to the boat to take more and play with them.

David, you just gave me a whole other idea. I have been so concerned about fitting everything inside the electronics box and didn't even think about mounting the gimbal brackets to a recessed panel installed inside. I usually take off the tinted cover as soon as I get in the boat anyway so that is not a problem. I really like the look of flush mounted electronics but have been weary of the lack of security. Your method offers the best of both worlds because the units a removable. Good stuff!

Jefecinco posted 06-30-2010 09:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Basshole,

I had a Lowrance LCX-111CHD with a 10 inch screen mounted on the console of a 160 Dauntless for several years. It was a super tight installation but boy was it great to have that large screen GPS/Sounder just below eye level right in front of the wheel. To make the set up work I had to relocate the compass from in front of the wheel to a cup holder cutout. I used the provided gimbal mount.

I have several photos of the boat on photobucket including some helm pictures if they have not been removed for inactivity. It takes some wading through but it may be worth a look for you. I hope the pictures are there.

Try this url: http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu154/butchdavis/?newest=1

Butch

Jefecinco posted 06-30-2010 07:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
For anyone interested I see that the url posted above remains active and works as a link. I believe there are three photos of the helm showing the GPS installation.

Butch

David Pendleton posted 06-30-2010 08:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
I too, like the idea of electronics being slighly below eye-level.

Unfortunately, running a Raymarine RADAR cable down the hardop leg to the lower e-box is a laughable endeavor.

I'm quite happy with my suite of Raymarine electronics. They are installed where they're "supposed" to be installed. On my boat, cable placement is a huge issue.

Basshole posted 07-01-2010 01:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Butch, thanks for sharing. Tight but just right. I especially like the clean wiring exiting the transom. I used to have a Dauntless 15 very similar to your boat just a little smaller. My 1st Whaler...man I loved that thing! Btw, how did you adhere the starboard transducer blocks to your transom? I just figured out a trick to gluing those on really well. Let me know if you would like to me to share it with you.

Scott

Jefecinco posted 07-01-2010 10:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Scott,

I loved that Dauntless and was torn about selling her. At least she went to a good home and the new owner fell in love with her too. A very sweet boat if a little small. We were together for just over eleven years.

I used 3M 5200. First I scored the back side of the Starboard for some added surface area. The 5200 is not recommended for use with Starboard but I took a chance and it held up for several years. Probably just dumb luck because that sounder transducer has a lot of pressure on it at any kind of speed.

I used duct tape to hold the Starboard in place for about a week to allow for complete curing of the 5200.

Please share your gluing method. Also see a thread in "Repairs & Mods" on repairing holes in a transom and chime in. I recommended screws to mount Starboard to the transom but using glue is a preferable method, IMO.

Butch

Basshole posted 07-03-2010 02:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Butch, try taking some 3/4" starboard a make 3"x4" pieces. Then on the side that is going to be in contact with the transom use a 3/16" drill bit and drill four pairs of holes in the block. Each pair of holes should be about 3/4" inch apart and angle 45 degrees or so toward each other so they link up and create a tunnel within the block. You must be careful not to drill through the block all the way through to the other side. Also, make your holes where your transducer mounting screws will not go through the block. Then use some epoxy or marine goop and glue the block on your transom. Spread the adhesive on the back of the block and completely fill the holes you drilled as well and stick it in place and hold with making tape till it sets. Voila! Work like a charm, no holes and super strong hold.

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