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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Smartcraft Gauges, Engine Data Bus message
|Author||Topic: Smartcraft Gauges, Engine Data Bus message|
posted 08-24-2010 01:06 PM ET (US)
I just bought a [2001 Boston Whaler] DAUNTLESS with [2001 Mercury] 200-HP OptiMax and Smartcraft guages, and have had the boat in the water only a couple of times. The Smartcraft gauges are not functioning correctly. The tachometer has an engine data bus alert. The manual says the tach isn't communicating with the engine. However, everything seems to be hooked up okay. I read moisture could be the culprit. The boat has been stored in a garage for over two years. The gauges will work fine until the [alarm occurs for] engine data bus and then everything goes crazy; the indicated RPM jumps all over on the tachometer, the speedometer quits, and the digital readout of the fuel gauge will lockup and stay on even though the ignition is turned off. I suspect I need to disconnect everything from the console and engine, make sure all connections are dry, and then recalibrate everything. I'd appreciate any feedback at from anyone with knowledge of these problems. Thanks in advance.
posted 08-24-2010 08:00 PM ET (US)
My Smartcraft guages have only malfunctioned once. They just froze up and would not turn off. I disconnected the wiring at the tachometer, reconnected, and everything was fine.
posted 08-24-2010 10:25 PM ET (US)
If the boat was stored for two years in a damp environment, you should carefully inspect all the electrical connections in the Smartcraft instrumentation system. I would un-mate all connections, check the condition of the connectors, and restore the connections. Also check all terminal post connections. A light mist of an electrical contact restoring spray may be needed for some connections. WD-40 works alright to restore many electrical connections.
posted 08-24-2010 10:28 PM ET (US)
[Moved to SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL.]
posted 08-26-2010 05:17 PM ET (US)
Today, I tried disconnecting the terminals from both the gauges as well as everything I could find at the engine. Let it sit a couple of minutes and plugged it in and took it for a spin. Everything was okay for a couple minutes then I got "speed o" fault, and briefly an ignition fault and then it went back to the Engine Bus fault. At this point the other gauge again locked up. I did this twice with the same results. The connections looked good, actually had quite a bit of lubricant on them. I read that a bad terminal resistor can cause a lot problems.
Anyone with any more suggestions?
posted 08-26-2010 11:24 PM ET (US)
One influence that very likely changed during your test run was the ambient temperature near the engine. Many electronic devices will malfunction when their operating temperature increases.
posted 09-12-2010 03:33 PM ET (US)
[The duplicate thread on this same topic has been deleted.]
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