Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
  Electrical connectors in bilge area

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Electrical connectors in bilge area
lurkynot posted 05-22-2012 07:38 AM ET (US)   Profile for lurkynot   Send Email to lurkynot  
The bait well pump mounted thru hull in the bilge went out after 11 years of service. The wiring feeding the power is neatly tied to an area near the floor of the bilge and have noticed the connectors from the factory which look robust and very well sealed.

Where can I find these type connectors? And, which type would suffice in this area? I have always shied away from simple crimp type connectors for splice applications opting to solder heat shrink in typical automotive applications. Thanks

contender posted 05-22-2012 08:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
Lurky: The best why for this is the male-female bullet connectors, You need to offset (cut each wire a different length about 2 inches different) and match it with the switch wires. Each connection needs to be crimped and then soldered. You use a piece of heat shrink on each of your connections, and then used a piece that will fit over both of them. Then seal the heat shrink ends with liquid tape. You can solder the wires together with out the bullet connectors, but if the pump goes bad or you want to change it, its a lot easier to just undo the connections (unplug) than to solder it again, you will be able just to unplug the ends, and cover with heat shrink again...good luck
lurkynot posted 05-22-2012 09:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for lurkynot  Send Email to lurkynot     
Contender--I like the bullet connector idea. Soldering up the pump leads in the event of the "next" time would be much easier on the bench as opposed to reaching thru the access hole in the motor well. Not that my arms are that big but trying to get both hand let alone elbows beyond the opening at the same time is nearly impossible. At 50 I am no where near flexible enough to contort my torso and lower body for any length of time.

This brings another thought into the equation which I pondered due to the difficulty of the job of connecting the leads in the bilge area. I am not sure hiring this out would have garnered the same care in the connection phase. Perhaps leading to problems shortly thereafter. Some things are better taken care of yourself in order to ensure robust results.

lurkynot posted 05-22-2012 09:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for lurkynot  Send Email to lurkynot     
I may dab some 4200 or 5200 since it sets up and dries pretty quick in this temperature on the ends instead of liquid tape. In addition I am already using it an area in the thru hull pump. Anyone have reservations attempting this?
gusgus posted 05-22-2012 01:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for gusgus  Send Email to gusgus     
Luckily my boat already came with a corroded clamp on the upper aft wall of the bilge pump bay. last weekend I replaced all the wiring, fuel hose and the clamp. Which is far to large to clamp, but instead exists as a support alone. I passed the bilge wire (18X3 "bilge" pump wire) through this clamp before connecting the the pigtails of the pump. Leaving enough excess wire to pull the pump out of the bilge for work or replacement.
gusgus posted 05-22-2012 01:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for gusgus  Send Email to gusgus     
Opps, I missed the connectors. I used crimp-style connectors with high quality shrink tube over them. In the shrink tube is a glue which seals the ends and keeps all moisture out. Bought at West Marine.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.