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  Boston Whaler 15-footer: Running Electrical Circuits to the Bow

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Author Topic:   Boston Whaler 15-footer: Running Electrical Circuits to the Bow
1oldman posted 05-23-2013 08:37 PM ET (US)   Profile for 1oldman  
I keep reading about running wire to the front via the rub rail. Is this done by removing the rubber insert and laying the wire under it? On the 1985 Boston Whaler SPORT 15 the bow light works. I want to mount a depth finder up front. Thanks, Steve
jimh posted 05-24-2013 10:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4
jimh posted 05-24-2013 11:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Steve--Where do you plan to install the SONAR transducer that will be used by the SONAR in the front of the 15-foot boat?
1oldman posted 05-24-2013 08:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
The transducer will be mounted on the trolling motor. Also thanks for that article it really answered several questions.--Steve
jimh posted 05-25-2013 08:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Is the trolling motor mounted at the bow?
1oldman posted 05-25-2013 05:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
Yes, on the port side; a MinnKota Maxxum 55 [pounds-thrust with] foot control.--Steve
jimh posted 05-27-2013 10:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Are you using a dedicated and separate battery for the trolling motor?
1oldman posted 05-27-2013 05:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
That is my plan but I am considering hooking both the starting & deep cyle up together to increase capacity. That way I can use a smaller starting battery(less weight). They will be mounted side by side inside the console. A possible problem with this is that I could get interference on my electronics from the trolling motor. I will just have to play around with it a little.

Steve

jimh posted 05-27-2013 11:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If you are going to run a high-current circuit from the battery to the bow, you can also run a circuit for the depth-sounder along with it.

Due to the way the electrical motor is controlled in some electric trolling motors, the power circuit becomes noisy. This can affect the depth-sounder. It is probably best to run the sounder from a separate battery. There are also noise filters for the high-current circuit. I have read that these are usually effective in suppressing interference to the sounder.

1oldman posted 05-28-2013 07:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
I am planning on running 6ga. wire on the port side to the trolling motor and lighter wire under the rub rail on the starboard side to the front depthfinder. I will also have a HB 998si on the cosole.

Steve

jimh posted 05-29-2013 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Do you plan to conceal the two 6-AWG conductors in the rub rail?
FISHNFF posted 05-30-2013 12:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for FISHNFF  Send Email to FISHNFF     
First, use a dedicated battery for the trolling motor.
Starting batteries and deep cycle trolling motor batteries are made differently. They do make combination type batteries but it's best to use two separate. If you ever use two batteries in either series or parallel they should be the same model battery.

I considered hooking up a voltage sensing dual battery charging system, But most smaller outboards don't put out enough amperage, And the run time on the main motor is relatively short during a fishing day.
A group 27 or a group 30/31 will last all day.

jimh is totally correct. Sensitive electronics do not like variable speed pulse technology high current motors on the same circuit.

Trolling motor on port side, FF on starboard. I've never run my bow Ff wires under the rail with my nav lights, but it seems cool.

FISHNFF

MosslandingJoe posted 05-30-2013 04:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for MosslandingJoe  Send Email to MosslandingJoe     
Be careful when selecting batteries to create a bank. [Be concerned] about mixing types and makes of batteries even with the same voltage output.
jimh posted 06-01-2013 01:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Regarding the need for dedicated starting batteries:

In a 15-foot boat the typical outboard engine can be started without a battery. The only reason to be extremely circumspect about the starting battery is when the primary engine cannot be started without a battery. If you can pull-start the main outboard engine, you can be less preoccupied with the starting battery.

Regarding the methods for creating banks of batteries with paralleled cells:

The topic of discussion here is the path for wiring to be installed. There is really nothing at present that suggests anyone is going to form banks of batteries by placing cells in parallel. Perhaps we can hold all that great advice in abeyance.

1oldman posted 06-02-2013 10:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
JimH,

I wasn't planning on running the 6ga. under the rub rail, It looks too big for that. Besides I am having hell just getting the rub rail back on the starboard side with just 14ga. It's not the wire; just my lack of skill,lol. As far as the 6ga. I am planning on using 3/4" pvc pipe to create an external wire tunnel. The 3/4" is the perfect size for the body of the female end of the trolling motor plug to be mounted into.

Steve

1oldman posted 06-02-2013 11:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
Also my motor is a 40hp Johnson w electric start. I have no intention of wanting to pull start that puppy. Plus at some point I plan on repowering with a Yamaha 70hp.4stk. So the way I rig now will allow me to change in the future.

Steve

jimh posted 06-03-2013 02:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
You should be able to run a separate power distribution circuit to the bow from the battery for the depth-sounder along with the 6-AWG cable. An extra two conductors for the separate 16-AWG circuit shouldn't be too hard to add, since you are not trying to conceal the 6-AWG cable.

If you can't pull-start the main outboard engines without a battery, you need to be very careful about the engine starting battery not becoming discharged when you run the electric trolling motor. The best way to ensure that is to use a separate battery for the trolling motor. You can then run the depth-sounder from the engine starting battery, and you should not have any interference from the power-circuit hash and noise on the trolling motor to the SONAR, unless it gets picked up by the transducer when mounted on the trolling motor.

How much charging current does your main outboard engine provide?

1oldman posted 06-03-2013 07:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for 1oldman    
I am not sure what the recharging capabilities of my motor is. It is an 1987 model and was on the boat when I bought it. Even though it runs great, I do have plans to upgrade, as stated before. I could pull start it in a emergegncy but it is not something I want to do all the time.

As far as the batteries go, I have decided that I will have two: one deep-cycle dedicated to the trolling motor, and a marine starting battery for the outboard. Both will be mounted side by side but seperate in the front part of the center console and with a two-bank charger.

Steve

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