Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
  2001 Sport Deliverd - Outfitting has begun

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   2001 Sport Deliverd - Outfitting has begun
awares posted 02-28-2001 08:17 PM ET (US)   Profile for awares   Send Email to awares  
This message is mainly targeted to the owners of the new 13' Sport. I would welcome comments or ideas from everybody.

I have just picked up my new 2001 13' Sport
today. I drove from Austin Texas to Beaumont Texas to pick it up.

The trailer worked wonderful considering I
was pulling it between 65-70 mph on I10 in the rain most of the day.

I have installed the following on the boat so far:
1.Lowrance X65 with surface temp. and speedometer option. I wanted the speedometer option so when I start trying different props I have a baseline on how each prop works at different rpm's.
2. The motor I have is the 40hp 4 stroke.
3. I have also installed a auxillary 12 volt stainless steel socket for accesories.
4. I installed an hour meter so I can keep up
with the break in period times and service intervals.
5. Transom saver- will have to lacate one that can work on this trailer. Is it really
neccesary with this boat? I never installed one on my 1968 13' Whaler.

I will be installing a mount to handle a hand held GPS after I select one. Currently I am leaning toward a Garmin.

Where is everbody mounting the fire extinguisher?

I need input on rod holders and other accessories.

I sure would like to see some pictures. I will post pictures when I get it completed in the next week or so.

Has anybody made any modifications or changes to the trailer?

Has anybody experimented with props and is so need feed back.

Thanks for all the great help.

Easy E posted 02-28-2001 09:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Easy E    
I think the best place for the fire extinguiser is under the console so it would be at hands reach. As far as rod holders, i think the setup with rod holder on the rails, similar to the 13 on page24 Cetacea is a good idea. The only thing I would change is puttin the rod holder on the middle post instead of the front post. This way you can steer the boat and tend to your rod by just moving your arms, i find that very convenient.-Easy E
Mako posted 03-01-2001 04:37 AM ET (US)     Profile for Mako  Send Email to Mako     
I think you're the only one with the 40hp 4-stroke, so probably no one's experimented with the prop yet. You've got power to spare, so as long as your max rpm's empty are okay, I'd just leave it.

The perko rod holders look nice and work well on the middle post.

I was thinking of taking a foot or two off the trailer tongue, but I haven't figured out the weight distribution and it fits in the garage, so I just left it for now.

The transom saver is a pain in the ass, but better safe than sorry. You can put a wooden block or metal pipe under the engine to hold it up a bit so it doesn't scrape. Don't use a broomstick--it'll break (I know).

You may want to add a compass. The Ritchey S-53 is a good fit on the flat part on top of the console.

A bigger gas tank would be nice, too. I just stick a 2.5 gal gas can under the seat next to the stock 6 gal tank, but a 10-12 gal would offer more peace-of-mind than the stock tank.

Mako posted 03-01-2001 04:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for Mako  Send Email to Mako     
A couple more things:

A 4.4 lb Horizon Claw anchor fits in the anchor box nicely, along with 150' of mixed rode. I hear the dansforth style doesn't fit as well. You could probably fit 200' if you need it.

I'm using Taylor G-2 fenders tied to the front and back posts of the port side rail, but they're a little small. The G-3 is rather large, so if you find a nice intermediate, let me know. My one docking line is on the middle post.

triblet posted 03-01-2001 09:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
The CG has rules on fire bottle mounting.
IN the console is bad. There are nice
recessed mounts so you can mount it
recessed in the side of the console.

Don't shorten your tongue without thinking
long and hard about it. You want to keep
your truck dry. Try LOTS of ramps before
you decide you want to shorten. Most folks
want LONGER. Also, a shorter tongue will
make the trailer twichier when backing up.

West has some bassboat fenders that look like
penguins. The penguins nose goes above the
gunwale. I use these on my Montauk.

The newer Garmin eTrex models (Vista, etc.)
are the way to go in a handheld today. I've
got a Vista on order for taking on other
peoples boats and stealing their dive sites
;-).

Chuck

Bill Davis posted 03-04-2001 11:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bill Davis  Send Email to Bill Davis     
Some thoughts from a new Sport 13 owner: I am not an expert,and am outfitting my first boat.

As to anchor: I fish with the tide changed and with a mud bottom. The danforth anchor is designed for this. It lays on flat on the bottom [with a length of chain helping, between it and the rope] and it digs in and holds well. The one I bought sticks out at the top of the compartment, right at the gap there where the rope [rode?] comes out. But I can still shut the hatch completely and could, I guess, shorten the anchor shaft a little and it would be perfect.

On the rod holders: I bought a Perko plastic and the darn thing came apart on the road, and all I have left is the clamp part--I didn't tighten it enough! BUT I have decided I like the idea of the chrome Perkos, one one each verticle rail: Thanks to Sean on this and other ideas.

On the handheld GPS: I got a Garmin 12Map. I am just getting used to it, but it is nice because it is waterproof, and it has maps. I have a CD I can look at at home on my computer and mark detailed spots I want to fish and then off I go! Watchout redfish!

I am enthrawled with other ideas above and am printing out!

PS: my son suggests I name my new boat "My Obsession!" ha!

Bill Davis posted 03-04-2001 11:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bill Davis  Send Email to Bill Davis     
Awares: Where is all this stuff installed? Can you put up some pix? Worth a thousand words! Maybe you can give us a 900 word description.

I am interested in the 12 volt socket. What is it for and where is it and who makes it....

And the Lowrance--where is it? On top?

thanks to all you folks!

Bill Davis posted 03-04-2001 11:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bill Davis  Send Email to Bill Davis     
go back 30 days and you'll see the agony and the extasy of the transom saver....
triblet posted 03-04-2001 02:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
12 volt socket = Cigarette ligher socket,
right? They are useful, but be sure to get
a good one. Marinco are the best, all
corrosion proof and Marinco plug latches
into the the Marinco socket. My Montauk
came with with something else that started
corroding. I replaced it with a Marinco.

The factory wires it on the accessory switch.
I moved it to between the accessory CB and
switch, so it's now unswitched. I plug in
my smart trickle charger there. Yes, I do
have to be careful because I could short the
plug.

Other things that could plug in there:

Power for a handheld GPS.
Handheld VHF charger.
Cell phone charger.
Laptop charger.
Digital volt meter for debugging electical
problems.
Spotlights.

No cigarette lighers on my boat, though, it's
a no smoking zone.

Chuck

hughmcmillan posted 03-04-2001 05:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for hughmcmillan  Send Email to hughmcmillan     

Hi,

Has anyone replaced the standard tach on the Sport 13 with a Teleflex tachometer/hourmeter combo unit?

I saw some in the West Marine catalog and would perfer to have one guage rather than a second, seperate, hourmeter.

I have not actually bought my 40/4 13 Sport yet, soon I hope, but my dealer really recommended the spare fuel tank. It seems like a good idea.

I am tempted to get Dave's thwart cushions with the backrest. It seems to me that it would be alot more comfortable with the backrest. I don't get the idea that the cushion(s)/backrest are very popular options.

I would love to know where everyone stores their safety items; fire extinguisher (yes, I know it isn't required but it seems smart to have one), horn, paddle, etc.

I am also toying with a 12 volt outlet but I think I will use my Garmin III+ on battery.

-Hugh

awares posted 03-04-2001 11:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for awares  Send Email to awares     
Well fellow Whaler owners I have the following to report.

Today was a fine day here in Austin Texas to try a new boat on Lake Austin. Lake Austin is actually the Colorado river damed up between Lake Travis and Town lake. Approximately 16 miles in length. A great place for playing.

Myself, my son and my hunting buddy and his son launched the boat for the first time this afternoon. Two adults and to young boys
(6 and 11).

The 40hp 4stroke started immediately and I
could not believe how quiet it is. It is also
nice not smelling or seeing smoke.

The Lowrance X65 worked great telling us at all times the surface temperature, depth,
speed, and actual miles traveled. I like this unit because you get all of these features wrapped up in one small package.
I have it mounted on the flat spot on the starboard side of the console.

I only have one 6 gallon tank and I was worried about the gas useage with the 40hp.
On my 1968 13' Whaler I always carried 12 gallons. We drove the boat for 1.2 hours and
went 23 miles and used less than 2 gallons.
I could not believe the gas mileage. I will check this again before I believe it.

I have an hour meter mounted just up and to the left of the tach. I really like the X65
for tracking miles traveled for the test drive.

The 13' Sport handled all of the boat traffic waves without getting any water at any speed on us.

Getting the boat up on plane is the same as all other Whalers. Sluggish and trying even
with the 40hp. Once up on plane the boat
will run between 37-38mph. I only pushed it twice to verify top end because I shouldn't have pushed it during the break in period, but who waits. We have all broken break in suggestions.

I loved the trim and the ability to adjust the ride to a nice pleasant ride. The boat seems to like to run the best between 27-28mph with the load.

One thing I think will be a must is the padded seat cushions. I could not keep my boat cushion stationed under myself. The back rest would also be nice.

I have also mounted a stainless steel 12 volt accesories plug on the flat vertical
wall on the console starboard side. To handle my spotlight and other things such as bait wells and etc...

The weight of the 40hp 4 stroke didn't seem to be an issue. I delibrately came to an immediate stop just to see if I could get water in from the transom area. I was at full speed and pulled it back to neutral.
Not a drop of water came in. I will try this
again because I was pleasantly shocked. I do
not believe this either.

Another improvement I will be making is adding a small piece of the rubber padding
they use in the bow locker around the bow
eye. The anchor snap hook seems to mar the area around the bow cleat by the bow locker while traveling.

The trailer loads real easy, but my buddy was gripping about not being able to see it behind my truck. I'll have to explore options for this issue to satisfy my buddies. I just open the door and lean out.

I will be sending pictures as soon as my wife fiqures out her new digital camera and
software.

So far I am real pleased. Will report back again.

Whaletosh posted 03-06-2001 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaletosh    
I have some pictures of installations of rod holders, downriggers, fire extinguisher, Garmin GPS, handheld VHF, and lowrance/eagle fishfinder on a 2000 Sport 13. E-mail me if you would like a copy. Specify Windows or Mac computer.

sean

BOB posted 03-07-2001 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for BOB  Send Email to BOB     
Thanks to Sean for the pictures.

I got my 2001, 13' Sport with a 40 HP 2 stroke last summer. We did lots of fresh and salt water fishing , clamming and crabbing.

This winter I have been accumulating goodies (Raytheon L365 Fishfinder, Hummingbird VHF 5 Handheld radio, two fold down fishing seats with clamp on brackets, and a heavy duty telescoping push pole to use in shallow water) to install when the weather gets more cooperative (we have been getting tons of snow in Connecticut).

I installed a second 6 gallon gas tank along side the standard tank.

The only other modification that I made was to put an L bracket around the ignition key. My knee kept bending the key and I was starting to worry that it would break off in the lock. Bracket installed, problem solved.

Sean, please give more detail on how you mounted your downriggers.

Bob

Whaletosh posted 03-12-2001 09:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whaletosh    
Bob,

Look at the wood diagram that should have come with you boat. In the triangular section in the aft corners you will see that there are some large pieces of Whaleboard (phenolic) imbedded in the hull. You can drill and tap this just like aluminum. I mean drill and tap(not trying to sound snotty here); you want to use machine screws or bolts in Whalerboard; the stuff that is spec'ed like 1/4-20, 10-24, 5/16-18, etc. Don't use sheet metal or wood screws. Drill and Tap!. Whew, did I emphasize that enough.

Locate the center of the phenolic boards, drill and tap your holes, and bolt the mounting plates for the downriggers on. Make sure you squirt some sealant into the holes befor puting in the bolts. Don't use silicone, it has acetic acid init which will attack aluminum.

My riggers have been on for a year with no signs of the plates loosening up.

Sean

p.s. contrary to the wood digram , the phenolic starts about an inch in form the inside edge, not right at the edge. I have two extra holes, albiet very small, because I missed the edge of the phenolic on one side.

2001 13 Sport Owner posted 03-13-2001 03:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for 2001 13 Sport Owner  Send Email to 2001 13 Sport Owner     
Awares! I was wondering if you have had a chance to correct your hole shot performance. If so, please let me know what you did to fix the problem. It looks as if I am going to go ahead and upgrade my engine now. It is probably best to upgrade while my 25HP 4-Stroke still has a lot of warranty left on it and the engine with very few hours. I have talked to a dealer and it looks as if they will take my trade-in. I really would like the extra horsepower and it just seems a waste to settle for less when the problem can easily resolved. Thanks!
lhg posted 03-13-2001 05:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I have been wondering for some time now why Boston Whaler even offered this boat with a 25HP engine option, especially since the boat weighs more than the Classic 13 it replaced, and takes more power to achieve the same performance.

I'm sure they were aware that probably 90% of the Classic 13's ever sold went out with 40's on them.

A Dealer should offer you a REAL good deal on upgrading the horsepower after selling what would be an underpowered boat to most customers.

awares posted 03-13-2001 11:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for awares  Send Email to awares     
Hole shot- I have not had the time to try
to see if my hole shot problem will be improved.

The very next day I contacted our local prop
shop for recommendations. I have known these
guys for a long time and feel real comfortable with them.

They first recommended trying a different prop since that is their speciality first.
They are very knowledgeable on different props and what can be modified for improvements in overall performance.

So we are now trying to maximize the performance with matching it with the best fit. They recommended in not using the
Mercury propellers for several reasons. They
can and will sell me one, but they feel better in using a propeller built in Louisana. I have installed a stainless 4 blade prop. We are trying this one first
to see how the rpm's respond on the top side
first. After we note the rpm's and verify the rpm's are in the 5500-6000 range we will
start modifying the prop if so required.

The reason this prop was selected is because it can also be ported on the sides. I do not
understand props very well, but they tell me
that by adding additional ports on the side of the prop will help the motor decrease the
time to ramp up the rpm's. Which in turn immediately helps the hole shot. I know when
I put a 4 blade on my bass boat I shot right
out.

They have several tricks to try, but we are starting with the prop first to maximize the
motors performance first.

I will figure this hole shot problem out with
the help I have in trying different things. The beauty with working with these guys no matter which prop I end up with I am out only one prop. I was going to buy a stainless prop anyway.

If we can not fix it with the prop and expermenting with motor height we will investigate in adding the Nauticus Smart Tabs. If all else fails the last trump card
will be trying a Doel-Fin hydrofoil or a Sting Ray performance system.

We are being real careful not to be to aggresive with the motor. I sure do not want to do something that will void my warranty or reduce the engine life.

I am willing to trade top end speed for a quick hole shot.

Tsuriki BW posted 03-14-2001 02:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tsuriki BW  Send Email to Tsuriki BW     
Awares

Curious as to why a few second hole shot is so important to you, rather than long term top speed and economy.

Congrats on your new Whaler

Tsuriki

Clark Roberts posted 03-14-2001 07:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Awares, weight distribution greatly affects he hole shot! Too much weight in stern will cancel out all your efforts, so try moving some weight forward! Just a suggestion.. Happy Whalin'... Clark
jimh posted 03-15-2001 12:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
10-second Explanation of Vented Props:

Initially vents allow exhaust gases to escape, creating bubbles around the blades and thereby spoiling the grip of the prop on the water. This slipping lets the engine run up in RPM faster.

Eventually, the speed of the water past the prop draws the exhaust gases back into the center hub, and the prop bite improves. Because the engine is now at higher RPM it has developed more horsepower and can handle the load of the prop that is getting maximum bite.

This allows use of higher-pitched props that the engine otherwise would have trouble with due to lack of power at lower RPM.

Think of it like a gear shift built into the prop, created by the bubbles from the vents.

The vent size can be adjusted with plugs to tune it for best results with a particular combination of boat, motor, and prop.

--jimh

awares posted 03-18-2001 10:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for awares  Send Email to awares     
The reason I am willing to give up top end speed is because 37-38mph is fast enough.

It runs great between 27-28 mph. I will use
the top end when the conditions are good.

I want the quickest hole shot and the best top end speed available. I always tune each
boat I have for maximum performance no matter
how big or small it is.

Right now there is no way you could ever pull
a skier up. I can be pulled up by my 1968
Whaler with a 40hp Johnson with no problems.

I did not buy this boat for skiing. I only mentioned that for comparison reasons.

Great explanation Jim on ported props. Do you think we are on the right track?

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.