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  How to ski behind a euro-transom Outrage?

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Author Topic:   How to ski behind a euro-transom Outrage?
diveorfish posted 03-11-2003 05:18 PM ET (US)   Profile for diveorfish   Send Email to diveorfish  
Has anyone ever seen or had a Post-Classic Ventura or Outrage with the euro-transom rigged with a ski pylon of some kind? Can it be done? Furthermore, can you rig it to be removable when not in use?

Alternatively, is there a rig (maybe a special bridle) that can be connected to the stern lifting eyes that would at least allow you to pull water toys even if you have twin engines?

witsendfl posted 03-12-2003 09:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for witsendfl  Send Email to witsendfl     
Try Overtons.com. They have an assortment of pylons that are available. You might also be able to tell the manufactuer then look them up online. There are tripod ski mounts that are removable/colapsable(sp). Mounted pylons are a big help in larger outboards especially with the new larger/taller engines.

Good Luck

witsendfl JimK

aubv posted 03-12-2003 10:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for aubv  Send Email to aubv     
diveorfish,

A simple bridle made from floating line, using the rear eyes would work. Another method with a bridle is to use the cleats under the hawse pipes. (23'OR)

Whaler has offer on many recent boats a tripod pylon that could be mounted to the swim platform of a euro transom boat. (Page 28 of 2001 cat. 16' Ventura)

Another option would be to remove the center transom rod holder (23'OR)and have a piece and reinforcing installed, in it's place, that would accept a straight pylon. (Like the '96 17'OR)

VMG posted 03-13-2003 12:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for VMG  Send Email to VMG     
I made my own (similar to what aubv suggested). Works just fine whether pulling a skier or a tube/floatee kinda thing. You can get the line and accessories at any West Marine or similar place.
diveorfish posted 03-13-2003 02:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for diveorfish  Send Email to diveorfish     
Thanks for the input gentlemen. Obviously, the bridle method is more attractive from a financial or non-drilling into the boat perspective.

Aubv: The cleats under hawse pipes idea was something I never thought of. Do you think that that area is strong enough to handle the weight of a skier/water toy passenger?

VMG: Was your rig tied to the stern eyes or through the hawse pipes if you have them?

Some more final questions: Since I have twins, any stern eye or cleat rig I come up with will rub against the engine during a turn or a slalom type maneuver. Would that hurt the engine? If so, is there anyway to rig it so it wonít? Or will I have to pursue the pylon thing after all.

P. S. I really donít anticipate doing this too much since I donít water ski. It would mostly be for my non-fishing friends and relatives.

kglinz posted 03-13-2003 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for kglinz  Send Email to kglinz     
I've never towed skiers, but with twins it looks to me if you turned hard over the rope would put enough side pressure on the motor to keep you from centering the steering.
Bthom posted 03-13-2003 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bthom  Send Email to Bthom     
If you are going to rig a bridle the best way is to run the rope through your bow eye and back along both sides of the boat to loop through a cleat to keep them apart at the stern.
This way the load is on the hull, not the cleats,they just keep the rope pulling from the corners.
I have towed a few boats this way while involved with the coast guard auxiliary,and while turning sharply the ropes would impinge on the engine covers,although at the higher speed associated with water toys I don't think it will be a problem.
Have fun!
Brian
ShrimpBurrito posted 03-14-2003 03:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for ShrimpBurrito  Send Email to ShrimpBurrito     
Bthom - that's a creative idea I've never heard of. I like it.
captbone posted 03-14-2003 08:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
I have been debating this for years. I have had all types of tow bridles and they all have their draw backs. www.overtons.com is the watersports place to go. I have a set up that beats them all. Overtons sells what they call a snap back protector. All it is, is a 3ft section of 1/2 pipe foam insulation with a cover. I simple use a carabiner and clip the tow line to a single stern lifting eye and put the protector over the last three feet of tow line nearest to the eye. This keeps the line three feet away from the motor, floating and allows the line to go any where it wants in turns while the protector keeps your hull and motor safe. It is the cheapest and greatest way even though it may sound ghetto.
VMG posted 03-16-2003 08:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for VMG  Send Email to VMG     
Dive,

(I have an OR23 w/ twins)

Through the stern eyes. Depending on the loads (my kids are avg-sized 10-12 yr olds), you can also rig a slip knot reinforced with some pvc in the set-up. Keeps the load spread between the two eyes more evenly. I also made the 'Y' section longer to keep the rope off the motor shafts (twins). Tried the hawes pipes (once) and the tension in the line was enough to scar the gel coat a few inches aft of the opening. I think there are plenty of ways to do it without hurting anything...some of the other posts sound good too.

WhalerAce posted 03-19-2003 12:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for WhalerAce  Send Email to WhalerAce     
On our OR-22 with a Whaler Drive, and twins, the Stern Eyes would not work. I got two right-angle brackets (galvanized for a trailer, about 1.5" x 1.5" each bend).Removed the top nut off of the outside engine mount, put the bracket there, and replace the nylock nut. Then used a floating bridle for the ski-rope. With the bridle, the stress was still evenly distributed, and being mounted on the outside of the engine brackets, and below the powerheads, the bridle never scraped the engines.

Hope this helps.

Ace

PS The brackets were about $2.00 each.

diveorfish posted 03-19-2003 07:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for diveorfish  Send Email to diveorfish     
Once again you guys are saviors. If you want answers you have to come to CW. Believe it or not I asked two Whaler dealers for some concrete suggestions and neither one was any help.

Whalerace: I like the bracket idea but Iím pretty sure that the bracket would interfere with my boarding ladder.

VMG: Since our boats are configured the same, I would like to try your method. I was never worried about the load on the stern eyes because they are made to lift the boat. My dealer always laughs at me when I bring up the subject of what load the eyes will take. What I was worried about though was the rope rubbing against the engines and you guys also set me straight on that. Iím not quite sure how yours is set up. I hate to ask, but is there anyway to obtain a crude drawing of your setup?

captbone posted 03-20-2003 02:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
The way to protect the motors from the line chafing can be done very quickly. A foam pool noodle ( you know that 3 foam pool toy, or even home depo 1 inch foam pipe insulation) put on the foam over the rope by the eye, just hold it in place to the loop at the end of the tow line with a wire tie. Good luck!
WhalerAce posted 03-20-2003 07:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for WhalerAce  Send Email to WhalerAce     
Diveorfish,

Don't see how the little brackets can interfere with your boarding ladder -- it is on the ENGINE bracket, and is probably closer to the centerline of the boat than the extremities of the powerheads. We are only talking about 30 inches in width, and that has two engines included.

Sorry I don't have any pictures with which to illustrate.

Ace

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