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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
23-CONQUEST: Static trim down by the bow; plumbing and electrical details
|Author||Topic: 23-CONQUEST: Static trim down by the bow; plumbing and electrical details|
posted 05-03-2003 10:46 AM ET (US)
Thanks to all for everyone's help as I arrange the purchase of my new boat. I checked it all over at the dock and its beautiful. Practically flawless. But I noticed from a distance that the boat seems to be a bit high in the stern. It has 3/4 tank of fuel- power is 225 EFI Merc. The back side bottom paint line is about 4-5 inches above the waterline. I"m not sure if its just an optical illusion because the bottom paint may have been painted up too high or if this is normal for lack of twin 150 Opti weight on back. Bilges all appeared dry. I appreciate everyone's help. I go for sea trial this afternoon and hope she runs as good as she looks. I'll let you know...
posted 05-03-2003 11:56 PM ET (US)
I don't have a Conquest - but you don't know why the bottom paint boundary is located where it is. Consider looking at Whaler brochure pictures to get an idea of how a new boat should set in the water at rest. The center of the fuel tank is probably aft of the midpoint. But, if indeed, the bow is setting low, about the only thing that can cause it is a lot of weight in the bow. ---- Jerry/Idaho
posted 05-04-2003 12:03 AM ET (US)
I have the same set up and noticed the same thing. My motor bracket and bracket zinc are completely out of the water. The trim tabs are barely under water.
I've never been concerned because I'm quite happy with the boat while underway.
Enjoy your new Whaler. What did you name it?
posted 05-04-2003 11:05 AM ET (US)
This is how your Conquest should sit in the water. Look at the chines.
Maybe there's 80' of chain in the bow locker ;)
posted 05-04-2003 12:06 PM ET (US)
You're looking at a boat that was designed to be powered by as little as a 400Lb outboard or as much as a 1000Lb I/O. I certainly wouldn't worried about it sitting high. I would think the scuppers should be 2 to 4 inches above water, but if they are higher thats fine.
posted 05-04-2003 03:22 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone. Haven't picked a name yet. Just got my slip and paid for it for the season. I went out for a ten minute ride today.
As far as the weight distribution, the starboard stern corner bottom is basically at water level. If you wash the floor water collects in front of the drivers seat. I noticed some kind of pump noise when I turn on ACC1 (I haven't gotten the manuals from the guy yet to figure everything out) and when I looked in the port holes I noticed that the tank in front of the fuel tank is basically full. Is that the waste? IF so, how do I empty it?
Front anchor storage is just rope.
So far I'm very happy with the boat. It has the XXL shaft on the 225EFI Merc which makes it look huge. This my first outboard newer than 1988 so the easy starting is nice, but its certainly not quiet. Now I know why people love the 4strokes when cruising and chatting with guests. The EFI smokes alot when cold, perhaps its because the gentleman I bought it from hardly used it and needs to be run out abit. It only has about 45 minutes for the season on it. If its anything like my other outboards- the more you run them the better they run.
When I hook up the engine to the hose to flush it, is it ok to do this in the up position?
David- thanks for the pic. I've printed it and will bring it back to the boat tonight and let you know.
Thanks again to all!
posted 05-04-2003 07:20 PM ET (US)
I was just kidding about the chain, although you should have at least six feet of chain between your anchor and rode.
The tank forward of the fuel tank is the freshwater tank for the freshwater washdown. I've heard of Conquests having a waste holding tank, but I doubt that's what you are looking at. I think they're black polyethylene, so you wouldn't be able to see through it, anyway.
I'm not sure what ACC1 is connected to on your boat. It sounds as if it might be the bilge pump, but that should be connected to the 'Bilge' switch. If you have the washdown option, that might be it but it shouldn't be a continuous noise. I only hear a slight 'bump' when I turn mine on, then the more familiar pump noise as I actually use the washdown.
posted 05-04-2003 10:49 PM ET (US)
The bilge pump of course is labeled "bilge"
"raw washdown" is washdown
"water" is fresh water
"acc 1" I believe is pump out for fish box.
posted 05-05-2003 07:10 AM ET (US)
David- thanks again for the pic. Your forward chine and mine seem to be both about 4-5 inches above the water at the bow. The only headache is when washing the deck as the water collects up front.
Yes- I tested all the bilge, water, washdown switches. They all work. But that noise on ACC1 must be something like the fish box as stated above but I haven't been able to see the pump that was running even when looking under the inspection hatches. The noise seems to be located on the starboard side near the drivers seat. I'm sure I'll figure it out in time.
posted 05-05-2003 09:52 AM ET (US)
I remember a thread years ago (not sure if it was this group or rec.boats) regarding a ballast kit to fit Conquests that had only a single motor. The added weight was to address scupper drainage from the cockpit on boats with a single outboard. Might want to check with a local whaler dealer if it becomes bothersome for you.
When you flush, keep the motor tilted down enough so it at least rests on the trim rams. This is really important if you flush without the engine running. With the engine tilted and not running, you run the risk of flooding the cylinders with water.
The ACC1 switch if for the in floor fishbox pumpout. You should also be able to unscrew the spray nozzle in the port side live well a turn or so to divert seawater from the washdown pump to the livewell. The same pump serves both the livewell and washdown. If you use the stbd under seat box for dry storage, keep a standpipe or plug in the drainwell or you can get backwash up into the compartment when you come off of plane quickly.
posted 05-05-2003 09:59 AM ET (US)
Couple of more things....The front poly tank should be for waste emptied with a vacu-flush by a fitting on the stb side opposite of where the fuel fill is located on the port side. It is labled "Waste". The freshwater tank is located under the center rear hatch under the fold down cockpit seat. The pump out for the fishbox is located under the rear corner of the fishbox under the deck. To access it will require removing the transom seat/rear cockpit, which is a separate molded piece from the rest of the deck structure. If you hold a mirror down in the right side motorwell hatch, you can see it up under there in front of the battery. The freshwater and seawater pumps are located behind the port side plastic storage bin/grab bar next to the passenger seat.
posted 05-05-2003 12:45 PM ET (US)
BillS- thanks for the detailted info. I'll put the motor down from now on but I can't see how water can get into the cylinders. I'm not an expert in the layout but I thought the cooling jacket was within the block and that water could get into the intack and exhaust system to enter cylinders.
My waste tank is apparently full. I have a silver toggle switch by the toilet, a valve coming out of the hull which pipes into the mascerator and then goes to the tank. I though I also saw a deep cube tank deep in the hull near the bow, if memory serves correctly. I'm not sure if the mascerator has a switch. What is the proper procedure for emptying and then setting it up for future use. I get that I hook up the vaccum to the waste fitting, but what about the other stuff? I have the marine head treatment stuff in a bottle. Thanks again.
posted 05-05-2003 12:46 PM ET (US)
that is supposed to read "water can NOT enter..."
posted 05-05-2003 03:15 PM ET (US)
Some of the used cooling water is diverted into the exhaust tuner and from there into the leg housing for cooling. There is the remote possibility the leg can fill up with the motor tilted up and back into the cylinders via the exhaust. Would require greater inflow than the relief ports would allow to drain the leg.
posted 05-05-2003 11:29 PM ET (US)
The typical Boston Whaler electrical panel comes with one or two circuits marked "ACCY 1" ("Accessory 1") to which the dealer or the owner can connect add-on electrical accessories. So there is no telling exactly what starts running when you turn on that breaker.
posted 05-06-2003 09:50 AM ET (US)
One of the joys of buying a used boat is discovering the add features added by the past owner(s). ;-)
posted 05-06-2003 04:27 PM ET (US)
I have a 23 CQ with the fishing package installed. ACC1 is your fish box pump out as BillS described. This is how mine came rigged from the factory.
On the switch panel there's ACC2 switch too. This one isn't hooked up to anything so it can be used for something the owner wants to add. For me, I added a 2nd pump so the levewell under the starboard helm chair is now plumbed.
posted 05-06-2003 08:47 PM ET (US)
Where did you pick up the water intake supply when you plumbed the stbd livewell? Also, where did you mount the pump? I have considered this, along with adding some foam insulation to the area between the deck and livewell for more insulation.
posted 05-06-2003 09:45 PM ET (US)
Adding a pump for the 2nd livewell has been a project I've been working on for over 6 months. After a few failed attempts here what I ended up doing that finally works.
1) New pump is a Shurflo Baitmaster Pro. Cost about $170 which is the best price I could find. It's mounted on the inside hull right behind the port side tackle drawer. If you take out the two tackle trays, you should see an empty space right there.
2) For intake I put a T-connector on the factory 3/4" raw water intake coming in from the port side. If you remove the fire extinquisher pocket, you will see all the factory pumps and plumbing.
3) Install the nozzle in the starboard bait tank, all I did was remove the lower corner cup holder in the starboard panel. From there you can somewhat access the corner of the bait tank wall. I used a Dremel to cut out a hole for the Attwood nozzle I bought.
4) Then run the hose from livewell and wires from the switch to the pump on the port side. I ran this along the factory hoses in front of the fuel tank. You can get to this under the deck plate located between the helm seats.
This kind of pump requires the intake to be underwater to prime which means mounting it above the water line along with the factory pumps was not an option. First choice was to mount this right at the factory seacock for the water intake at the port corner. There is not enough working room to install a pump back there. Too many hoses around and can't get to it through the small deck plate.
I then noticed that I had another thru hull fitting for my Potti OB discharge. This is located right near the macerator under the deck plate between the helm seats. I actually bought a nice Forespar 1" Y-value and got the pump installed and plumbed on a piece of starboard glued to the inside hull. It was mounting a few inches above that sea cock. I thought I had this all setup but it didn't work. I found out a few weeks ago that the pump wouldn't prime because it wasn't low enough in the water line.
So I finally give up and bit the bullet on the $170 Shurflo. This pump is self priming up to 9' and has a built in check-value just like the other factory Shurflo wash down pump. So all I needed to do is to find a way to tap into the factory intake and let it rip.
I took the boat out 2 weeks ago and this new setup works just fine. The new bait pump is even quiter than the Shurflo installed by Whaler. Now I can keep bait and fish alive in separate livewells. I'm going out for salmon this weekend if weather permits so I can take a few pictures of the install if you like.
posted 05-07-2003 09:18 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. I am intimately familiar with the internal nooks and crannies to which you speak ;-)
Sounds like a neat well thought out setup. I am amazed my original pumps all still work after 5.5 yrs. I've never owned another boat where that was the case.
posted 05-07-2003 11:29 PM ET (US)
[Changed TOPIC: was "Conq (sic) 23 low in bow"--jimh.]
posted 05-14-2003 02:16 PM ET (US)
Take a look at this site and you will find out alot about your
posted 05-15-2003 10:26 AM ET (US)
David Pendleton: Nice looking boat, curious did it come with the powder coated hardtop?
I would have liked that on my 255.
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