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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Trim Tabs On Dauntless16'? Hydraulic or electric?
|Author||Topic: Trim Tabs On Dauntless16'? Hydraulic or electric?|
posted 06-06-2003 05:04 PM ET (US)
I am convinced trim tabs will make my boat ride a whole lot better but not sure which size and brand to use. Also I am going to raise up my motor a notch or two. I know another engine height question...but if any of you have any information about the tabs or lifting the engine with a 90 hp mercury on 1999 dauntless 16' I would greatly appreciate it. There are 5 holes and I can lift it up 3 max.(I am up 1 hole)Thanks
posted 06-07-2003 02:55 PM ET (US)
Thought I'd give you a btt [bump to top] Hugh as I'd be interested in replys about the trim tabs also. :)
posted 06-07-2003 03:24 PM ET (US)
I too am interested in trim tabs. I think I like the idea of the electrics better. No oil, more precise. I like the look of the Lenco's.
Also before you go to tabs, read my conclusions from repowering my D15 and adding a Hydro Lift fin. This is cheaper and less work. It paid big dividends for me.
I found there is alot to be gained by raising the motor to the proper position (Whaler recommends 0-3/4" above lowest spot on hull for AV plate of motor. Others in this forum have recommended 3/4"-1.5")
posted 06-08-2003 08:22 PM ET (US)
I have a hydrofoil now but I still want more, especially at slower speeds in a heavy chop! The foil helped a lot but I still can not get the bow down with out putting every one up front and beating them to death. I use my boat mainly in the northern parts of the gulf where we do not have big problem with swells.
posted 06-08-2003 09:15 PM ET (US)
The rigging specs from Whaler specify 1 hole up for the 16DA w/Merc90. The specs are the same for my 17MT w/Merc 50 4stk. I am in the 3rd hole and performance is much improved.
posted 06-09-2003 02:24 AM ET (US)
I have Bennett hydraulic trim tabs that the prior owner installed at great expense on my recently purchased 2000 Dauntless 16' w/Suzuki 115. The engine also has foils mounted on each side of the cavitation plate. The trim tabs look like this:
I have been playing around with them and have come to the conclusion that the boat rides best with them all the way up. When I put them down (bow down), indeed the bow lowers, but you can feel significantly more drag caused by the increase in wetted area.
I have noticed that a smooth, fast plane is very sensitive to engine trim, perhaps because of the foil.
I have not noticed that the bow rides abnormally high even with the trim tabs all the way up. I have a single battery in the console and varying numbers of passengers.
Unfortunately when the swim ladder is lowered, the starboard trim tab obstructs the lower portion. Very annoying. I have been considering relocating the ladder a few inches to the right. Since the trim tabs don't appear to be useful, perhaps I should just remove them?
I don't know what hole the engine is mounted but can find out if you are interested.
posted 06-09-2003 01:54 PM ET (US)
I know what you mean about slowing down with the trim down. What if you trim up the motor while the tabs are lowered a liitle? Will it create unecessary drag from the tabs while maintaning the same hull angle on the water or will you benifit from the reduced drag of the engine being higher and the tabs will hold down the bow with less drag over all. Probably be able to run shallower?
RLSmith... What is your max speed with the 115? Yes I am interested in the height of you engine too. Thanks HW
posted 06-09-2003 02:12 PM ET (US)
Does anyone have a jack plate on the 16 Dauntless or heard of anyone using one on one? That sounds interesting to me especially because of the notched transome
posted 06-09-2003 11:01 PM ET (US)
I like the electric's but carry extra fuses with you. I have had them blow and had to use a peice of wire to make do for a sec. while I trimmed it back up. I do not know how quickly the hydraulic's drift back up, but the electric's won't. Also you can get the trolling motors built on the electrics for a very high price. They are awsome though.
posted 06-10-2003 12:35 AM ET (US)
An old trick with a blown 3AG type fuse is to use the blown fuse wrapped in a layer of tin foil from a stick of gum or a KIT-KAT candy bar. It makes a nice 20-Amp fuse.
Emergency applications only!
posted 06-10-2003 09:03 AM ET (US)
great tip! Emergency applications only is right!
posted 06-10-2003 09:14 AM ET (US)
Back in the good old days, for emergencies only, we would insert a small bolt in a 3AG fuse holder...we called it " a 1/4-20 No-Blow".
posted 06-20-2003 04:37 PM ET (US)
I have a Dauntless 18. Rides rough. I have considered trim tabs and a fin.
WHaler tells me to avoid the fin as it may lead to instability. They recomend the tabs.
I question if it is possible to smooth out the ride in rougher chop. THe Dauntless is designed with a shallower hull for added stability.
THose of you with the tabs...do the tabs smooth out the ride?
posted 06-20-2003 09:06 PM ET (US)
that's odd that they warned you off of a fin. They told me to put one on!
posted 06-24-2003 02:58 PM ET (US)
I e-mailed whaler through their webpage and received teh recommendation to avoid the fin.
A dealer told me the fin installation may void the factory warranty from Merc. I have not verified this with Merc.
I took a frind fishing over the weekend. He weighs about 300#. I was a little surprised that his weight, in the bow, smoohted out the ride some.
The tabs might be the way to go. Or maybe a big wife.
posted 06-24-2003 03:25 PM ET (US)
This is what Whaler recommended for my 16' Dauntless:
I have not tried it yet, but the plus side is that you do not need to drill holes in the cavitation plate. I called on it once, and I think it was $100-200. If interested, the area code has changed to 321.
posted 06-24-2003 09:59 PM ET (US)
My understanding is that adding a fin does not void the warranty - at least here in Minnesota.
The Grand Island Fin is an easy decision anyhow since it does not requite drilling the AV plate. The way it mounts actually makes it stronger since it becomes like a steel laminate.
If the 300lb friend in the bow helps the problem then a fin will most likely help a ton. In order I would do:
1. Raise the motor up so that the AV plate is about 1-1.5" over the bottom of the boat when motor is trimmed flat. This is a change for free.
2. I would add the fin and I would do the GI one, my experience is that it provided better results than the stingray that I had (albeit a different motor, but lighter). $100-$200
3. I would investigate a prop change as Sal often recommends to a Stiletto prop. $300 or so.
My boat is a D15, since yours is bigger, the 4th thing I would do would be to add trim tabs. My preference if for the Lenco electrics just because I don't like the mess of hyd fluid if something breaks. I also like the idea of jack screws vs pistons plus the Lenco installation looks simpler and requires less room in an already crowded console. ($500-$600 problem)
In my case, I put on a motor that many had told me was too heavy. The performance I was able to achieve exceeded the great performance that I had with my older, lighter motor. however, it took all of these steps and was a bit of a science project. Since I didn't understand all of this before I started, I changed one thing at a time until I got it right, noting the change and improvement at each level.
This is a game of inches - there is no quick fix. However, in order, the most improvements came from the fin and then from raising the hole. The prop was last and was gravy on top of all that - the icing on the cake.
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