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Author Topic:   M170 Stern Cleats
Jim D posted 09-10-2003 11:13 AM ET (US)   Profile for Jim D   Send Email to Jim D  
I want to add stern cleats to my 2003 Montauk. My desire is to match the new 2004 models. Are the 2004 stern cleats also 8" like my bow cleat? Seems like overkill. Hardly enough room to install behind the rail. (My buddy's 35ft Chris Craft has 8" cleats.)
I would check it out at my BW dealer but he is over 100 miles away.

Jim D.

Maximus posted 09-10-2003 12:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Maximus  Send Email to Maximus
Moe posted 09-10-2003 12:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
According to a previous post, Max used 8" cleats from West Marine that match pretty well except for being a little thinner.

Llink to West Marine

Not sure what the '04 have, probably 8". I only use 3/8" dock line (150 Sport) and the 8" bow cleat is more than enough for two 3/8" lines. For the stern, I'd just use 6" cleats because of the space available, even with 1/2" line.

Link to West Marine


tombro posted 09-10-2003 03:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     
I ordered a pair of these last week from WM for my 150 Sport; they are on backorder. Now I am wondering how to mount. Catty-corner, I guess, as that is where the ply backing is according to the schematic. This boat desperately needs them...
Moe posted 09-10-2003 04:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Catty-corner appears to be the only way according to the wood diagram. I saw smaller ones done that way on a 130 Sport, and didn't like them there, or the way the catty-corner cleat looked. With us having the full bow rail, and using the bimini open all the time, that's the main step area into the boat.

For now, I keep the lines on the stern eyes all the time, and use the snap strap on the bimini to hold the coil of line on each side. This is much less than ideal because the line running from the stern to the bimini is always getting snagged by fish hooks, and presents a trip hazard for those boarding at the aft corners. I'm considering trying to mount some kind of straps on the stern eye backing plates to store the coiled line.

I have an electronic stud finder that I'm going to try to "tune" (i.e. first push the button) on an area I know doesn't have blocking, and try to see if there's anywhere else to mount some. At least it MIGHT show if the wood really is catty-corner.


jimh posted 09-10-2003 09:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Fixed long URI's--jimh]
Moe posted 09-10-2003 10:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
The stud finder can't tell me if they're catty-corner, but the whole aft corners seem to be backed. Unfortunately, it finds a gap with no backing between the corner blocking, and the blocking for the rear bimini brace. Right where a rear cleat would fit perfectly. Grrrr....


tombro posted 09-11-2003 07:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     

My bimini is mostly down, and we have the style that predates yours by a month or so. It is track mounted Mills, with eyes fore and aft for strap attachment.
I don't like having to lean over to attach lines to the eyes when buying fuel and bait in the busy and rough saltwater environment I run in, and will have to accept catty-corner cleats, I guess. My wife told me Fed-Ex tried to deliver something last night. Maybe the cleats are in. The 6" ones take #12 fasteners.
BTW, replaced yet another tailight assembly last night. The whole lens snapped off both curbside and roadside on separate occasions while driving, and unbeknownst to me. At least they can be plugged in to replace...LED coming soon! Along with 14.5 Tempo tank, Garmin 188, extra rodholders...etc...etc...

Moe posted 09-11-2003 10:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Tom, I can't see me bending over the transom to attach lines while in the water either. That's why I leave them attached all the time.

The biggest problem with the aft dock lines being on the stern eyes is that you can't run a spring line forward without it rubbing on gelcoat somewhere. No problems attaching to a dock cleat or piling aft of the boat, but there isn't always one available. At least running back from the bow cleat, the rub rail lifts the line off the deck if it gets tight.

I'm really disappointed in the trailer lights. They glued the bottom panel on mine and you can't get it off to change bulbs without breaking it. BTDT. I'm also blowing the truck's fuse for the taillight line (but not the turn/brake lines) when plugging back in after recovery, even from fresh water. It's fine after drying a few hours.

I haven't found a low-profile version of LED trailer lights yet, just the more square ones. Lemme know if you find some low-profiles.


1stwhaler posted 09-11-2003 09:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for 1stwhaler  Send Email to 1stwhaler     
I recieved a J.D.power survey form and filled out my concern of no rear cleats on 170,that I felt it was a safety hazard leaning over and tying to aft lifting rings.Well they forwarded my concern to BW and BW e-mailed me and said to schedule an appointment with my dealer and they will install rear cleats.
Rodger posted 09-12-2003 01:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rodger  Send Email to Rodger     
Can we get a copy of that email? Sure would be great if Boston Whaler offered us 2002 and 2003 MT170 owners the same cleat upgrade as well.
Matthew posted 09-12-2003 03:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Matthew  Send Email to Matthew     
I had my dealer add stern cleats to my '02 Montauk 170 and he was able to find backing in front of the stern side rail stantions (sp?). I believe they are 6" cleats that match the bow cleat, except smaller in size. It has been a convenient location.


tabasco posted 09-18-2003 07:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for tabasco  Send Email to tabasco     

I purchased mine for $20 and installed mine in front of the rear side rail.It's a do it yourself job

dvanaken posted 09-20-2003 07:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for dvanaken  Send Email to dvanaken     
Tabasco or Matthew-

When you say in front of the rear side rail do you mean aft of the side rail attachment point (where there is open space?) Or is it under the side rail itself? Or am I just being dumb tonight? I have a new '03 M170 that is stored for the winter (not here) and I want to add cleats - I just can't go outside and look at it! Any help as to your successful location or specific cleats selected would be very much appreciated!

Thanks - Dale

Matthew posted 09-22-2003 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Matthew  Send Email to Matthew     

My rear cleats are located under the side rail just forward of the rear post/stantion that attaches to the gunnel.


tabasco posted 09-29-2003 07:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for tabasco  Send Email to tabasco     
dvanaken posted 10-11-2003 12:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for dvanaken  Send Email to dvanaken     
I found some very closely matching Attwood stainless steel cleats in 6" size at (SKU #254176) for $7.49 each. has the oval head 1-1/4" ss 1/4"-20 screws that match (in fact I bought a box of 50 if anybody needs a set - email me).

You will need to drill and tap the holes - #7 wire guage drill and standard 1/4"-20 tap. The Whaleboard is 1/2" material by 3" wide in the region just aft of the rail post where these cleats fit nicely.

- Dale

wetdog posted 10-12-2003 09:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for wetdog  Send Email to wetdog     
I too am planing on adding cleats.

So, I may be asking a stupid question, how would I tap the screws? I am not sure that I understand that part. Couldn't I just drill the hole, the screw the cleats in with everything seal up?

Also, I am planning on adding a couple of rod holders on the gunwale above the light holder. Can I just drill and screw those in, or do I need to take some special precautions to insure that the screws will not strip out over time.


Barney posted 10-12-2003 09:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
Wetdog, I just used a 13/64th's bit. The tap set I purchased at Autozone for $7. It goes quickly. Jim in Gulfport
Barney posted 10-12-2003 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
Wetdog, I emailed you. It came back undelivered. Jim
dvanaken posted 10-12-2003 10:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for dvanaken  Send Email to dvanaken     

You need to create threads in the whaleboard similar to those in metal - it's a hard material. Tap sets (or individual taps) are pretty inexpensive as Barney says. You tap forward a half turn or so then reverse a bit to help clean out the cutting threads - continue until you are through the whaleboard then unscrew the tap.

Just tighten the screws firmly but don't overtighten - you can strip out the whaleboard. Some similar cleats use #12 screws but the 1/4"-20 screws on the Attwood cleats are bigger and have more "bite" - they're the same size that BW uses on the factory cleats, as I understand from Chuck Bennett.


wetdog posted 10-13-2003 07:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for wetdog  Send Email to wetdog     

When I signed up for this forum, I entered the wrong email, try wetdogms at yahoo dot com. So, tapping is essentially creating the threads so that the screw bites the whaleboard in the strongest way?


Barney posted 10-13-2003 08:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
Wetdog, There are more threads to bite into the wood that way. But I wouldn't tow anything from them either way, say a friends boat. So if your just using them for docking for lunch I don't think it's a big deal. I threaded the board because I was using Whaler cleats and it had to be factory. There are words for that. Jim
wetdog posted 10-13-2003 08:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for wetdog  Send Email to wetdog     
Thanks for the info. I will tap the cleats when I do the install. As for toe rod holders on the gunwhales, I will just screw those in and seal everything up nice and tight.


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