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Author Topic:   20 hour check
Knot at Work posted 10-20-2003 04:03 PM ET (US)   Profile for Knot at Work   Send Email to Knot at Work  
My new 90Hp 4 stroke finally has 20 hours on it.

My manual says service at 100 hours and a interval following that. I noticed some of you folks talk about a 20 hour check. questions -

1. What is in the 20 Hour Check? (Oil, Filters, Lube, Compression check, gears?)

2. Is it neccessary when manual says 100 hours?

3. What is the average ball park cost?



lhg posted 10-20-2003 04:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
First, do a search here on the subject. There is fairly recent discussion on this clever little "profit center".

All I can say is either "watch out" or do it yourself.

Is this Yamaha/Merc joint venture engine THAT poorly designed and manufactured that *YOU* have to pay to have it checked on after a mere 20 hours? Did it go out of adjustment that fast? If it did, it should covered by the factory warrantee. Note that all of this work is NON-WARRANTEED expense. Funny about that. Change all the fluids, filters yourself, than tell the dealer you want him to check out the engine for you at HIS expense, just to be sure it's not a defective product. Why not, if they're concerned something MIGHT be defective and have to be replaced?

Maximus posted 10-20-2003 05:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Maximus  Send Email to Maximus     
My manual ('03 4stroke 90HP) also states 100 hours for the first service interval. Almost 50 hours on it and plan to have it winterized/fluids changed next week.

Can someone link the above mentioned thread. I couldn't find it.

Barney posted 10-20-2003 05:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
Knot, I changed the oil in the crankcase, filter and the lower unit oil my 90 HP 4-stroke beast at 33 hours. You are right the Mercury manual says 100 hours and other manufacturers say something like 15 hours. I did it myself just because. If you decide to do it yourself email me. I've got the inside scoop. Jim
Moe posted 10-20-2003 05:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
If you've ever changed oil on a car or motorcycle, buy the supplies, gear lube pump, and oil filter wrench for that size and grease gun if you don't have them, and do it yourself. Easiest oil change I've ever done.

I've gotten in the habit of leaning my motorcycles over to let the messy side-mount oil filter drain, so with the motor tilted up, I rolled it over on the starboard side and let the portside filter drain. Then I rolled it over to port as shown in the manual, drained the crankcase, and reinstalled the plug. I lowered the motor, put paper towels under the filter, and removed and replaced it. Very little drippage on the paper towels.

But for some reason, something told me I should open the drain plug again. When I did, over 1/2 a quart of oil shot out past the drain pan onto the garage floor. It had been trapped somewhere up in the powerhead with the motor tilted. Had I not done this, I may've been another owner who's four-stroke was "making oil."

The gear lube change went just as easily once I figured out you had to twist the pump top to allow the plunger to rise.

There's a reason for a "break-in" oil and lube change. While parts are wearing in together, they have sharper edges, and can shear oil molecules more than they will later. There's also more metal in the lube, which in the case of the oil, but not the gear case, the filter should catch.

Greasing all the appropriate places resulted in water running out, meaning they were inadequately greased at the factory.

Hope this helps,

lhg posted 10-20-2003 05:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Knot - See thread in general section on "Tune Up".
Knot at Work posted 10-20-2003 06:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Knot at Work  Send Email to Knot at Work     
lhg, Thanks for the bump on the General section

Jim (aka Barney) and Moe you guys as always come through like champs thanks.

Jim - I will take you up on that do it yourself after my 20 hour check I am curious about a few other things so I am gonna have Killinger look at my boat.


lhg posted 10-20-2003 08:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
In my estimation, the only real time to spend your check-up dollar wisely is about a month before warranty expiration.
That's when it's likely to do you the most good. But that's never listed on the maintenance schedules! This 20 and 100 hours stuff is a waste, unless of course, you have syptoms of warranty work needed at those times.

Spending another $300 or so on a brand new engine, just after you paid $6500 for it, or more, makes no sense at all.

Knot at Work posted 10-30-2003 12:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Knot at Work  Send Email to Knot at Work     
will let you know what it entails on Monday when I take my Montauk in.
lhg posted 10-30-2003 01:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Hopw you don't get "trashed".
Knot at Work posted 10-30-2003 02:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Knot at Work  Send Email to Knot at Work     
lol... yea I know what you mean.
Bigshot posted 10-30-2003 04:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Normally 2 smokes have a 20 hour service where they adjust carb linkage, change lower unit oil, plugs and torque the heads, stuff you can do yourself. In your case I would take it in for the 100 hour just to make sure she is OK. Mine only cost $89 including tax and that was with fluid changes. Mine had no carb adjustments being EFI. All they did was hook it up to the computer and run a diagnostic check and note it on the system for warranty purposes. There is no way they can void your warranty if you do it yourself. If something is mandatory then I think they have to pay for it.

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