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Author Topic:   170 Montauk 2003
Rodney posted 11-27-2003 10:29 PM ET (US)   Profile for Rodney   Send Email to Rodney  
I am looking at buying a 170 Montauk early in the new year - could someone please let me know the height from the ground to the top of the console windscreen when the boat is on a standard issue Whaler trailer hitched onto a vehicle ? Looking at storage options....
Moe posted 11-27-2003 11:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe
Rodney posted 11-28-2003 02:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rodney  Send Email to Rodney     
Thanks Moe.... I wanted to confirm that the 170MT will fit under a 2.1 metre (sorry....7'0"..) clear door height. I have designed a solid s/s framed 'poptop' canopy which can be easily lowered to console height for storage and travelling. In Australia we need a full boat width canopy for sun protection and if playing a very large game fish we need to be able to walk around the boat without dodging frames and braces. Also we travel long distances and being able to lower the canopy cuts down on windage ie fuel consumption...
Moe posted 11-28-2003 11:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Cool! Is this like a big, boat-width T-top? I'll bet several here are interested in that design!
lakelab posted 11-28-2003 07:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakelab  Send Email to lakelab     

I would be interested in seeing pix of this installation and design for my montauck. I am finding the bimini is more of a hassle than I thought.


Rodney posted 11-28-2003 09:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rodney  Send Email to Rodney     
I have completed the design drawings of the s/s 'poptop'and I am talking to a s/s fabricator about the design and costs.... a bit early for pix !!!
I looking to place an order for a 170Mt before Christmas (still negotiating $$!) and delivery would not be for another three months or so (they come to Western Australia from the US 'via the Cape'...).
We have excellent fishing here - big bottom fish and game fish like tuna and narrow banded mackeral. Fishing is generally about 2-3nm offshore and we launch off the beach with 4WD's.
Still no confirmation on the clear height of the 170Mt to top of windshield when on trailer ...anyone have the measurement... please ?
Moe posted 11-28-2003 10:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Someone's going to have to jack the tongue to the same height it is when hooked up, and then hold at least a 4' level with one end on the top of the windshield, out over the gunnel, and measure the height from the bottom of the other end of the level to ground.


AQUANUT posted 11-29-2003 12:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
I AM CURRENTLY IN PROCCESS OF BUILDING A T-TOP FOR MY 2004 MONTAUK.......@ height of 6'6"....out of 2 inch aluminum for mainframe..and 1" for accessories ...lights....rocket launcher{rod holders}...speaker boxes..and night search/flood lights..also a hailer speaker for the vhf radio
Rodney posted 11-29-2003 03:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rodney  Send Email to Rodney     
Hi Aquanaut
Yes, I looked at aluminium too but a bit concerned about long term durability, etc (and being an architect..aesthetics !). The s/s one looks like costing about AUD3K (about USD2.13K)and would include four sliding vertical elements to lower to windshield height, purpose made detachable cover, rocket launchers, and s/s pads and wiring for radio aerial and speaker and satnav receiver.
Jimm posted 11-29-2003 11:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm    
Rod - My Montauk 170 when towed on my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee is about 76 inches high at the top of the windscreen.. Naturally give or take an inch or so... Jim
bsmotril posted 11-29-2003 12:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
If you want some durability out of aluminum, try to find a metal processor that can anodize the framework for you. An Anodized finish is much more resistant to corrosion than raw or painted aluminum. If that is not possible, the next best thing would be to have it powdercoated. The downside is that anodizing is not a surface covering and you need to do a good surface prep because any imperfection is going to show through. Powdercoat is opaque and will cover minor imperfections. BillS
AQUANUT posted 11-29-2003 12:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     

1.Rodney, durability, although a concern not a issue...growing up in florida, 90% of all t-tops were manufactured of aluminum, the key is bracing/gussetts
stainless involves cost and weight..although I am powered by
115hp EFI 4{s} weight is always an consideration.

2.Bsmotril...I concur with powder-coating...thinking about a white for majority of top...however where canvas is to
attached I am going to DA with 60 grit gives aluminum an nice texture..I feel the rubbing of the canvas over time will affect the powder-coating.

3. Boston Whaler uses aluminum t-tops on its Outrage line of product

"If your not Whalen, Your failin"

cape_rover posted 11-29-2003 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for cape_rover  Send Email to cape_rover     
How would you secure a T-Top to the deck?

Is the console thru bolted so you would secure the T-Top to that. Or, do you just hope 5200 and wood screws will hold it to the deck?

I would assume a T-top would have alot of wind resitance pulling on it, especially if you are towing the boat against the wind down a highway...

erik selis posted 11-29-2003 02:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Would a heavy stainless steel T-Top have any influence on the stability of the boat compared to an aluminum one?
erik selis posted 11-29-2003 02:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
What does a 170 Montauk cost in Australia?
Perry posted 11-29-2003 02:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Perry  Send Email to Perry     
Here in Hawaii most of the t-tops are anodized aluminium. They hold up well and are quite durable. As for the method of securing it to the boat, look at the pics here to see the t-top on my whaler.

AQUANUT posted 11-29-2003 07:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
1. As far as securing my t-top to the plans are as such.

four foot pads,each with a neopreme gasket {as used on competition ski boat towers}...lagged with stanless lags....
clear 5200 in each mounting screw hole.

aft section of the center console, near top, horizontal
2 inch strut, with atatached pads {4 inch diameter}
neopreme gaskets..thru bolted with inside metal backing plates.

also, it is imperative to have correct design in actual top size, shap, forward [cutting edge] parallel to deck...and have an offset pyramid shape.

cape_rover posted 11-29-2003 08:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for cape_rover  Send Email to cape_rover     
Are stainless lags - lag bolts or stainless wood screws?
Jimm posted 11-29-2003 08:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm    
Aquanut - I hope you are screwing into sometype of backing, such as plywood or whaleboard, and not just filling a hole with epoxy and using that as an anchor. I don't think that will spread the load enough. Try the repair section of the forum to get a better answer...Jim
Perry posted 11-29-2003 09:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Perry  Send Email to Perry     
According to the folks at Boston Whaler, the deck is plenty strong enough for screwing (stainless wood screws) a t-top to the deck. A thick layer of 5200 between the foot and deck serves as an adheasive and a shock barrier. Wood screws might pop out and strip with neopreme pads alone. You need the 5200 to secure them to the deck and keep water out of the holes. The place that built mine has made hundreds of custom t-tops and this is how they secure them to the deck.
Rodney posted 11-29-2003 11:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rodney  Send Email to Rodney     
Wow !... this Forum site is a mine of great information !

Thanks Jimm for the height to top of windscreen - that's great news - I need to store it on trailer with a clear height of 84"

Erik - 170Mt in Oz is AUD40K (about USD28K on current rates) - it seems high on the US prices being quoted in the Forum - but I guess they are shipping it half way around the world and import duties, etc...

When you talk about 'wood screws' - here we use s/s self tappers or 'long threads' for most of our fixing - 'wood screws' are quite different and would not be considered suitable for screwing to a grp deck...? Is 5200 a type of neoprene, an adhesive, or a sealant ?

Thanks Perry for the link to the existing T-top pix - I will look at those with great interest...

Jimm posted 11-30-2003 02:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm    

The "3M Company" describes 5200 as a " high-performance polyurethane adhesive sealant". There are two versions - quick setup and normal set up. Both however are extremely hard to remove. If you think you might want to remove the sealant in the future then 3M - 4200 should be used.
AQUANUT posted 11-30-2003 06:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
There is a stronger product out there...its what boston whaler uses to mount their motors with...I am a rigger @ a boston whaler dearlership...and I know what it is..but it completely escapes me right now..will post it when it comes black...^%$$^%^$.. is so strong that when I use a hydraulic engine lift to remove the the 2004 whalers after 4 engine mounting bolts are removed, I can pick up boat hull..trailer and engine all together, I usually must break the "SEAL" with a sharp putty knife and a sand hammer.

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