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Just ordered 220 Dauntless and have some questions
|Author||Topic: Just ordered 220 Dauntless and have some questions|
posted 01-17-2004 07:24 AM ET (US)
Ordered my 220 Dauntless "Miss AMLN" with Merc 225 Optimax yesterday and am excited to say the least.
I will be fishing mostly large inland lakes with some time on Gulf Coast. Any advice on mounting trolling motor and depth finder on the front? Also, on mounting GPS and depth finder on console?
Have ordered hydraulic jack plate but wondered if I need trim tabs to help in running shallow water and getting up on plane?
Also, any advice about what trailer to get would be appreciated. My dealer sells Magic Tilt.
Just found the forum this week and have really enjoyed it.
Thanks much for any help. Milepost43
posted 01-17-2004 07:40 AM ET (US)
Welcome to the forum, and let me invite you to the rest of the website. The forum is only a portion of the resources available on continuousWave that have Boston Whaler related content.
For trailer recommendations, read the several articles on this topic in the Reference section:
My article "Two School of Thought" will give you the conventional wisdom on trailer selection.
posted 01-17-2004 10:00 AM ET (US)
Great trailer info. Did a little web searching but can't find a trailer maker that shows roller AND bunk style. Help?
posted 01-17-2004 11:16 AM ET (US)
I have a magic trail, triple, torsion suspension and brakes on all 3 axles, its an OK trailer, I've had 3 of them with no major problems. Forget rollers, bunks only and order one with torsion suspension and surge brakes at least on one of the axles. You'll need a tandem for that boat.
posted 01-17-2004 11:36 AM ET (US)
Agree with TrafficLawyer. The only thing I'd add is to make sure the bunks extend all the way to the transom or just slightly beyond so the motor is supported. AFAIK, Whaler themselves use all bunk-only trailers these days.
posted 01-17-2004 12:59 PM ET (US)
Combo bunk and keel roller trailers can be special ordered from some manufacturers. Pacific trailers, for example, will add keel rollers as an unadvertised option.
posted 01-17-2004 01:56 PM ET (US)
Trail-Rite is another great trailer. They still make them with the combo bunk and roller system.
Different weight models for different boats.. Here is one with a 5000 lb.
I think there are several people on this forum that have the Trail-Rite trailer.
posted 01-17-2004 01:58 PM ET (US)
Congratulations on your new boat. I have a 2003 22 Dauntless. I will put my own dauntless experience slant on things, but as others have pointed out there are some great resources on this site and elsewhere covering each of these topics.
I found that mounting the trolling motor on the bow can be difficult if you order the kind of motor that has the “power” steering control (i.e. foot versus handle control). I had the dealer put a Minnkota Riptide 65AP on the bow of my boat and it took us (the dealer and I) a little bit of time to get comfortable with a way of doing it. The mounting features of the foot control version is significantly shorter than on the bow control version, so it is not straight forward to get the mounting position such that you can get all four mounting features bolted into the whaler designated mounting area, and keep the motor nicely stowed. The solution turned out to rely on the Minnkota mounting bracket accessory. The bracket mounts inboard of where the motor mounts, thus letting you get just enough of the bracket to securely mount the motor, while getting the motor appropriately mounted over the bow. The other advantage of the bracket, which really turns out to be a super advantage, is it allows easy, quick disconnect of the motor. I wouldn’t install a trolling motor on another boat without a quick disconnect bracket between it and the boat. For example, if you need to service the trolling motor, cover the boat, or just take people out cruising, it is nice to be able to take off the motor. I would hesitate to give advice on trolling motor selection, other than to say I would not use less than 65 lbs, 24V, which is not to say I haven’t been happy with the riptide performance, it is just that I can tell that is the minimum for that boat. Right now there is a promotion on the mercury site that says something to the effect if you buy one of their trolling motors when you buy your boat (with certain high end outboards), you can get another prop (for the outboard) of equal value for free….sounds like something too good to pass up. (yes I know the law considers a trolling motor an outboard…but I think you know I am not talking about a cheap plastic trolling motor prop but a big old expensive stainless steel prop for that optimax.)
I have an all bunk aluminum trailer, and it works for me, but as a rule I would go with whatever is the dealer recommendation for that area. There are some good articles available that do a good job of explaining different ramp types (shallow verses deep). If you are in an area where you won’t be able to cover all the bunks with water, than your going to have to rely on a lot of silicon spray to make them slippery, or use a roller trailer and a good winch. You better have surge brakes, but for most states, if not all, this is now required by law for a rig that weighs over 4500 (like this boat, motor, and trailer). My trailer has the electric solenoid / five wire plug, so that when you back up, it uses a fifth wire, which goes to your back up lights, to disengage the surge brakes when you back up. The solenoids are a lot more common now than the old manual / move a lever system for disengagement. If you have only a four wire (instead of five or seven) set-up on your towing vehicle you can work around that, but it involves jumping out of the vehicle and replugging / special plugging each time you want to back the trailer up. For the money your spending on your boat, I would definitely go aluminum, regardless of where you use it.
I mounted a depth finder / GPS to the top of the console, in the partitioned area of the console where the controls are located (i.e. behind the pouch/pockets). I put the GPS antenna almost right next to it, on the console top. Make sure whoever installs it uses silicon to seal between the mounting surface and the console to keep the water out. At least with my particular depthfinder/GPS I have never had GPS reception problems, even with the bimni top up. I didn’t bother with a front mounted one because I use the Minnkota Copilot accessory to steer / fish with the trolling motor from anywhere in the boat. So I can monitor the fish finder fairly reasonably. Not to say it wouldn’t be nice to have one of those trolling motor mounted ones located at the bow.
I personally have found I use the trim tabs for leveling the boat (on plane, high speed) in a crosswind, or more rarely for other load balancing issues. For me, this is where they make a nice payoff. If your going to add trim tabs and a trolling motor you may want to look at the Lenco troll-and-trims (whatever they are called) that combine both.
posted 01-17-2004 10:08 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the replys. Much help.
Steve M. MK is offering a RT74AP for 04. That one is my plan.
posted 01-23-2004 11:18 PM ET (US)
A 74AP sounds like a great choice. Can't wait to hear about your experiences.
You may want to consider an onboard charging system. Personally, I think the trolling batteries are hard to get to in the 220, and you will want some way of charging them up quickly without trying to unstrap them everytime. I went with the MK220 (if I recall). It is a little big for a two bank, but I have found a good spot for it. Having it makes charging a breeze, just plug up to an extention cord. I mounted the charger inside the console, in a spot where it is out of the way, but I can still see the charging indicators. I haven't yet run the plug to an external connector, but I am leaning towards doing that. What I plan is to run the power cord from the charger under that little rail and then mount an interface to the exterior on the starboard side of the console, near the aft end, within about a foot of the deck, where the inside of the connector will be in the wiring/control area.
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