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Author Topic:   Trailer Bunk question - MT 170
Beaner posted 04-06-2004 08:26 PM ET (US)   Profile for Beaner   Send Email to Beaner  

Have any new Montauk 170 owners with the EZ Loader trailer had any problems with the aft bunk lag screws backing out of the wood? After doing the spring "look over" of the trailer, I noticed 3 of the 4 aft bunk screws backed out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I replaced the stock 1 1/4 screw with a 1 1/2 screw. Hopefully I didn't screw into the bottom of the boat. I figure with the wood (1 1/2) and the metal lip (1/8), and the screw thread is really 1 3/8 I should have plenty of clearance. I called EZ Loader after I did the repair (great customer service), and they suggested moving the bunk slightly and drilling new holes using the 1 1/4 screws the trailer comes with. I should of called first, repaired second!!

My questions are has anyone else had this issue and how did you resolve it? Also, is there anyway I can jack up the boat slightly off the trailer to check if the screws came through the top of the bunk? I was thinking of using a car jack under a 2x4 in the rear corner of the boat.

I realize some of you may think I've lost my mind, but please understand its been a wet, cold and long winter in the Northeast. Instead of being on my Montauk flounder fishing, I'm messing with things I probably should have just left alone. Thanks.

Uncle Pug posted 04-06-2004 09:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Uncle Pug    
Back the 1 1/2" lags out and put the correct ones back in.

Launch your boat and take a look at the bunks to see if the 1 1/2" lags made their way through.

If they didn't kiss the ground. :-)

The with the boat off the trailer you can do as BW says.

AQUANUT posted 04-07-2004 10:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
I work @ a b/w dealership..thats a ez loader dealer also....when jacking a boat off a trailer in my bay....I use a homemade "V" block...[a 4x4] with a notch cut into it and carpeted...jacking from the keel area....if you can't belly sling...or float it in a tank..this is good home alternative.

irt..the bunks...I replaced mine on my 2004 karavan...{carpeted bunks} with a material commonly called dura wood....a dense plastic material...similar to polymar made bby 3M..and to cutting boards....its slick durable..and lags hold tight..and it doesnt rot.

Beaner posted 04-07-2004 12:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for Beaner  Send Email to Beaner     

Aquanut,

Thanks for the V block tip. I think I'll give that a try. Do you know where I can find that Durawood material? Also, do you think the 1 1/2 (1 3/8 thread) lags went through the bunk? I can't imagine it did, but I'm still nervous about it. Thanks.

Chuck Tribolet posted 04-07-2004 12:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
1 3/8" thread isn't relevant. What matters is the distance
from base of the head to the point, and that should be 1 1/2" on
those lags (that's how they are measured).

I've had the same problem with loosening lag bolts.
When the bunks on my Shoreland'r go, I'm going to use counter
bored SS carriage bolts and aero nuts.


Chuck

Beaner posted 04-07-2004 12:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Beaner  Send Email to Beaner     

Chuck,

The entire lag screw measures 1 1/2. The portion that actually screws into the wood (I called it the thread) - from the bottom of the head to the tip is 1 3/8. I guess the only reason I'm a little nervous is that someone said the wood may compress. Without any compression the wood is 1 1/2 so I should have plenty of room - also the metal lip for the bracket is at least 1/16 if not closer to 1/8. How will you make sure the top of the carriage bolt doesn't scratch the boat?

Chuck Tribolet posted 04-07-2004 08:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Then you have 1 3/8" lag bolt. Bolt length is measured from
the surface where the head is to the tip.

As I said: "counterbored". First I'll drill a flat bottom
hole in the top of the bunk with a Forstner bit or similar,
slightly larger and slightly deeper than the head of the
carriage bolt, then drill a hole for the shank of the
carriage bolt. And I'll chamfer the edge of the counterbore
so it doesn't cut a hole in the bunk carpet.


Chuck

Chuck Tribolet posted 04-07-2004 08:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
One more thing: Uncle Pug's advice was right on, though I
think I'd just back the lag bolts down a couple of turns
rather than replacing them. Launch the boat. Tighten the
lags back up and check the bunks. And check the bottom of
the boat. If everything is OK, you are good to go. Worst
case, you need a touch of Spectrum, the hard part is figuring
how to get at the chip.

Whatever you do, don't launch without either replacing the
lags or backing them out a bit. The price of failing to do
so is four big long scraches, vs. four chips.


Chuck

Uncle Pug posted 04-08-2004 07:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Uncle Pug    
That is a better idea Chuck... just back the lags out and then after to boat is off the trailer run them back in to see if they protrude.

Beaner I really hope we get a thumbs up report from you that all is well.

Beaner posted 04-11-2004 01:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Beaner  Send Email to Beaner     

Finally got the Boat in the water yesterday. Checked the trailer and nothing came through. Wood and carpet feel flat and smooth. Debating whether or not to back out screws and install some washers and some 4200 to keep the screws in or just leave it alone and see if they start backing themselves out again. Installed the Pate 24 on Friday and seems to be working fine. Thanks for the seat tip Uncle Pug, working without the seat bottom in made the install alot easier. Felt good to get through the psychological hurdle of drilling my first holes in the boat. Ended up using a 90 degree brass elbow right to the fuel line instead of the quick connect. Seems to work for me. By the way Uncle Pug, I showed my brother pictures of your Pate install. He's pretty mechanically friendly and had some concern about your tank venting fumes under the RPS from a safety perspective. He was worried about fume buildup. Just wanted to give you the heads up.
Uncle Pug posted 04-11-2004 09:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Uncle Pug    
Beaner that is great news.... whew! :-)

One of the local Dealers here in the PNW installs Tempo plastic tanks under the seat and puts a deck plate in the top of the new RPS for fuel filling since they don't have the removable panel.

I would think that they have considered the vapor issue too and didn't consider it a factor.

My take is that there will be no vapor build up since gasoline fumes are heavier than air an the entire back side of the RPS is open for ventilation.

That and I don't smoke. ;-)

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