Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
|Author||Topic: Gelcoat Shine|
posted 05-07-2004 10:46 AM ET (US)
What are the best methods, cleaners, and waxes one should use to remove oxidation and return the gelcoat to it's original gloss? The Whaler is 8 years old and in great shape, just needs a little shine to the gelcoat to look brand new.
posted 05-08-2004 07:16 AM ET (US)
posted 05-08-2004 02:12 PM ET (US)
I used the Collinite Fiberglass cleaner followed by an application of Collinite Fleetwax. Did a nice job on my 7 year old Outrage which, until I bought it, hadn't had a waxing in the 5 years it sat in storage. The trick with both, is to wipe the cleanr and wax off while still wet. Don't let these dry. Microfiber towels work best.
posted 05-18-2004 02:16 PM ET (US)
I just bought two big jugs of both the cleaner and wax, for $90.00, I sure hope it works.
Last year, I used Collinite paste wax, applied by hand to my 23 Conquest. It looked fantastic, but damned-near killed me applying it and taking it off.
The paste wax indicates that it should not be allowed to dry, however the liquid does not. Does it really make a difference?
Has anyone ever applied or removed these products with a polisher?
posted 05-19-2004 09:43 PM ET (US)
I agree with prm, but "wax on" by hand in 3' x 3' squares and "wax off" with a heavy duty buffer with a foam pad. The buffer will flash the wet wax off and leave a hard protection. Remember, you are polishing in the end and you don't have the time or muscles to match a good buffer.
posted 05-20-2004 11:12 PM ET (US)
You remove the wax with a foam pad? That doesn't sound right to me.
I have a Porter Cable RO polisher. A foam pad is used to apply wax, a faux sheepskin pad is used to remove it.
The faux sheepskin only works when the wax has dried, otherwise it will get too gunked-up.
I'm going to experiment plenty with this on my own, of course, but can you describe the process (and equipment) you use in detail?
posted 05-21-2004 08:46 AM ET (US)
Tried something a little different this year.
Always used Collinite fleetwax #885 paste, but this year switched to the #925 liquid. I like it better, now that I've used it.
I have a 1988 25' Revenge Walk-thru. There is so much non-skid on this model!!
Almost the entire forward deck, pulpit, gunnels, and all floor surfaces. Believe me, that's a lot. And being 16 years old, and stuck on a mooring, in a saltwater world, there tends to be lots of oxidation on the non-skid, as well as smooth surfaces.
This year, I think I found the perfect combo.
First, I used Softscrub w/ bleach, a section at a time, let it sit for 3-5 minutes and a thorough rinse, and let dry. That did a great job cleaning the non-skid and removing oxidation.
To apply the liquid collinite wax, I used a small Rubbermaid 4" foam roller, (these are simply small paint rollers for detail work). I found the 4" roller, really helpful and fast!!
To load the roller, just pour a small amount of wax onto a paper plate, and roll the roller absorbing the wax. Then simply apply to any of the surfaces on the boat, smooth or textured (like the non-skid). It really worked well on the non-skid. Let the wax dry, and polish it off.
For smooth surfaces I used the faux lambswool pad on a buffer.
On the textured surfaces, I used a T-shirt over a brush, and polished off by hand. (Really not bad)
I think the results have been the best yet. The liquid Collinite really makes a difference. It actually changes the color of the fiberglass, back to the "desert tan" and adds a beautiful patina and depth. While working with it, you can see the dramatic difference from the area completed, and areas not done. (I guess that's the point....Duh..)
I used this method on the 25 and the 13' Super Sport.
The interior of the 1987 13' looks so fantastic.
With the wax protection, the cleanup after use is just a breeze.
posted 05-21-2004 10:19 AM ET (US)
Where can you buy the 925 liquid. I've looked at a few places and haven't been able to find it?
posted 05-21-2004 10:53 AM ET (US)
Try www. collinite.com
posted 05-21-2004 05:47 PM ET (US)
Your best price is going to be Shoreway Marine, in Berlin NJ. 800-443-5408 Same for 3M Finesse-it II in Qts.
I've been recommending the #925 Pure Boat Wax liquid over the Fleetwax for some time now. Glad you discovered the "real truth"!!!
I clean non-skid by using Meguiars #44 on a rough towel pad, rubbing in the 3 directions of the non-skid grooves, and polishing off BEFORE it dries.
Liquid Fleetwax is good for an interim touch up, when you first begin to notice the shine going. It has mild abrasives in it, and when applied with a buffer will quickly bring the boat back up, without having to go to the full #44 job again. Forget PASTE Fleetwax. It's a bear to work with
posted 05-21-2004 07:05 PM ET (US)
I bought a half-gallon of Collinite's No. 920 (cleaner) and a half-gallon of Collinte's No. 870 (wax) at BoatU.S. for right around $90.00.
I don't remember the exact price of each (can't find the receipt), but the wax was more expensive than the cleaner.
You'll could probably get it cheaper somewhere else, but I don't live somewhere else.
Larry's right. The paste is really hard to work with, but it sure looks great. I've never used the 870, so I'm anxious to try it.
Thanks, macfam, for the great advice. It never dawned on me to try a paint roller. My Conquest is covered in non-skid, also.
posted 05-24-2004 12:19 PM ET (US)
You guys are right about not leaving the No. 925 wax on too long.
I waxed my Montauk outer hull and left it on overnite. Big mistake. Very tough to get off and the shine was no better than last time when I left it on for 5 minutes.
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