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Author Topic:   Dauntless 16 Shakedown
skred posted 05-10-2004 08:02 AM ET (US)   Profile for skred   Send Email to skred  
Frustrated with the fickle weather here in Milwaukee, and after actually believing the weather man, I let a perfect Saturday go by. So, yesterday (Sunday) In spite of T-storm warnings, etc., my son, daughter & I launched the Dauntless 16 in Lake Michingan at Milwaukee. Less than 100 feet from the dock, the skies opened up. Undaunted (n.p.i.), I donned my rain jacket and headed out. The boat handled like a dream: very smooths, and the Honda 90 was so quiet on startup, I thought it hadn't started. With two on the pilot seat and one in the stern quarter seat, it took about 5 seconds to plane, and was noticeablly nose-high prior to plane. once up she really took off. Naturally I forgot the gps - but I'd estimate 32-36 mph. 15 minutes of rain and wind cooled my enthusisam, so we docked to wait out the storm. A while later we left with sunshine on our backs. I noticed a bit of that porpoising I read about here, but when I trim down a bit, it disappears. I must agree that a foil, or tabs, would really help this boat's performance. One technical question: the water telltale stream on the 90 Honda would not show a stream when used with a motor muff at home, but in the lake, the stream appeared normal. There were times, however when it was just a dribble... The overheat warning never came on, and the engine felt and acted normal. Is there a thermostat at work here or should I have the water pump checked?
Took her out thru the breakwall and hit the 3-4 footers for a few minutes, and am totally impressed: super soft ride (even at high speed) and totally dry ride. Engine runs at 5850 rpm WOT with the 3 of us and about 20 gallons of fuel. I'm a totally happy Whaler owner!
AQUANUT posted 05-10-2004 10:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
I work at a honda/yamaha/mercury dealership,
I P.D.I. motors can happen easily..that the volume of water being forced into the intake is not sufficient enought to properly circulate thru the engine,
When I fail to see water from the tattle-taleafter a period of time that I feel a thermostat controlled motors thermostat should have opened; I shut her down.

water pressure can vary greatly from place to place...municipal..and the same for wells and pressure valve settings for them. 20-60 psi.

point sure the ear muffs are completely covering intake grate, water is full on, and thermostat has had time to acquire the heat neccessary to open..
I suspect due to the fact that it functioned properly in the water..your in good shape with no water pump issues.

so it is with many outboards..most have thermostats..

Florida15 posted 05-10-2004 10:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for Florida15  Send Email to Florida15     
But he said even on the lake there were times that the stream was just a dribble. That doesn't sound normal, at least not with any outboard that I've ever owned.
skred posted 05-10-2004 01:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Thanks for the replies. It is correct that - at times - there was little or no water from the telltale. The engine never overheated, however, and I ran it WOT for several minutes at a time. There's no clogging in the lower unit screens. I'm going to push a stiff weed-whacker monofilament down the tube to insure there's not a partial obstruction. It would seem to me if there were a thermostat problem, the overheat indicator would come on, and/or the built-in limiting circuitry would slow the engine down. I am checking with my dealer to see what their mechanics think.
skred posted 05-10-2004 01:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Aquanut: Perhaps you could help me on another question: I'm trying to find out which prop I have. It's black-painted aluminum, 3-ablad, and the only numbers I can find on it are 510J8.... Any ideas?
Florida15 posted 05-10-2004 02:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for Florida15  Send Email to Florida15     
Skred, that's a good idea to clean out the tube. I had the stream stop on an outboard I used to have and I just cleaned the fitting with a wire and blew out the tube and that fixed it. It had some tiny pieces of what looked like gravel in there clogging it up.
skred posted 05-10-2004 02:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
FL15: Right. The dealer said to detatch the telltale tube from the thru-cowling piece and run the engine with a muff again. He's found that if there's a bit of stone or some such in the tube, it can't pass thru the fitting. Also said to push something thin thru the cowl fitting in case something got stuck in there. Gonna try that tonight.
Chesapeake posted 05-11-2004 10:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
skred: What year is your Dauntless?


Moe posted 05-11-2004 11:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Have you pulled the prop and looked on the back side of the hub? It's a good idea to pull the prop on a new boat/motor anyway for a couple of reasons. You want to check and make sure the shaft is greased. It's also a lot easier to see how it comes off and goes back on in the garage than it is on the water (assuming you'll have a spare prop).


skred posted 05-11-2004 01:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Chesapeake: it's a '99 Dauntless 16. Moe: I haven't pulled the prop yet, but I'm going to do that tonight. The dealer had gone over boat/motor completely, and his reputation is excellent, so I'm sure it's greased, etc. But when I gave him the only number I could find "510J8", he had no idea what prop it was. I may be an non-honda prop, but Michigan Wheel numbers dont't match. Hope there's a number hidden there somewhere. By the way, I discovered the engine is mounted all the way down, in the top hole on the bracket, and when I extend a straight-edge from the hull to the cav plate, the plate is at least 1.5 inches below the hull line. You'd think that after all the discussion here, I would've checked that earlier. I just read a really good post on how to raise it easily in the garage, so that's next.... Considering how well it performed Sunday, it's gonna be a real treat to see the improvement after height adjustment.
jimh posted 05-11-2004 04:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
What do the abbreviations





Moe posted 05-11-2004 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
npi = no pun intended

pdi = pre-delivery inspection

Legobusier posted 05-11-2004 05:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
What year is the Honda 90? Mine (a 1998) has a full stream tell-tale whenever it's running either on muffs or in the water - both hot and cold. Themostat does not seem to have any effects on the tell-tale.

Sounds to me you have a partial clog or something of the sort.

Buckda posted 05-11-2004 05:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
I deciphered n.p.i to mean "no pun intended"

But you'd have to be pretty darn intelligent to figure out what PDI stands for.

Laughing Out Loud


Buckda posted 05-11-2004 05:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Sorry...obviously, I DNR (did not refresh) my browser fast enough.



skred posted 05-12-2004 08:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Attaboy, Dave! Well, guys, since the pun was flagrant - I thought the abbv. was o.k., IMHO.... :)
The Honda 90 is a 1999 also - original to the boat back when we weren't locked in.
Tube might've been blocked, but when I detatched it at the top, I didn't notice anything obvious falling out. I did blow in the tube and it's clear - I can hear the air at the other (pump?) end. Had an appointment, so I didn't get to muff the motor yet. I would think that if it were a pump issue, I wouldn't have been able to run WOT for the 5 or so minutes, or, for that matter, the hour or so of slow-no-wake cruising we did. Thanks for all the responses. Sorry, Jim - I just couldn't resist the abbreviations...
skred posted 05-17-2004 08:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Well, the cooling telltale mystery is solved, thanks to all the advice here. I had read somewhere on this site that too much water pressure on a motor muff, could cause the pump to stop or perhaps the pressure could damage the pump. Yesterday, I started the motor with the muff on and very low water pressure, and gradually increased it eventually, a normal water stream appeared, at almost maxmum water volume through the hose. My city water pressure is easily over 10 gpm. I guess there was just not enough water volume/pressure at low flow rates I was previously using.

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