posted 05-17-2004 08:08 PM ET (US)        

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For those of you who fish with your 170 Montauk, here is a little tip I would like to share, but first let me tell you why you might need it.

On my last outing, we caught a Wahoo that promptly emptied his stomach contents in the back of the cockpit. I thought we picked up and tossed overboard all the half digested fish and other chunky bits. We then used bucket and brush to wash the blood and slime that was everywhere. Naturally it all drains to the bilge and gets pumped overboard. At the boat ramp we soaped and washed the boat. The next day it was aromatically clear we had missed some. Upon further inspection, this time with flashlight and mirror, I found that some of that wonderful chunky stuff had managed to enter the rigging tunnel and the space under the starboard step through the hole that the bilge pump hose and wiring passes through. It took several hours of cleaning and flushing to get rid of the smell.

Now the quick fix. Get one of those stainless steel screen type kitchen sink strainer, 3-1/4 inch size, from the home improvement or hardware store. Bend a half circle notch in the rim to clear the pump wiring. Cut a hole (approximately 1-3/8 inches diameter) in the screen in the appropriate place to match the hose location as it passes through the hole in the bilge. Remove the hose and clamp from the pump and pass the strainer rim first onto the hose. Reinstall the hose and clamp to the pump. Push the strainer all the way starboard and hold in place with zip wire ties. It won't keep the blood and slime from getting in but will keep any solids out.

posted 05-17-2004 09:02 PM ET (US)            

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this is how I addressed this problem months back.

I took a split boot simular to the one in the slpash well over the steering,throttle,shift cable and powercables/fuel line.
the difference being, a split boot can be installed without sliding anything thru the center or disconnecting anything...it is a 4" diameter with 6 stainless steel self tapping screws. a little clear silicone on the overlap..done... sealed...waterproof.

posted 05-17-2004 09:17 PM ET (US)            

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Aquanut

I considered using a boot but wanted any water entering through the open end of the rigging tunnel under the console or fuel line hole under the seat to have a way out.

posted 05-17-2004 11:17 PM ET (US)            

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thats a very good point....I failed to point out that i completely sealed my console with one exception..the door which has slots in it on the montauk170....I was not wanting mildew to grow on my life vest,,I took and removed the fire ext holder..recaulked..caukled the speakers I installed, took my dash panel out to install hour meter, recaulked...
I was also worried about water and condensation on my 300 buck cd player which is automotive..but in a marine enclosure...[heavily caulked...]
and there is a seam on the bottom of the console where it affixes to the deck..there are two aft inside of the console....I even shrinkwrapped the tacklebox that had an open back insdie of the console....had to make it whaler tight...lol

but very good point, I see ya were using your noodle..
happy whalen

posted 05-18-2004 02:51 PM ET (US)            

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Aquanut - I'm impressed with your waterproofing scheme. How did you seal the fuel line hole? Have you opened the access under the starboard stern step recently to see if it's still dry? Water is pretty tenacious and seems to get in somehow.

cape_rover - With the total cost of parts under $3 and modification and installation time under an hour longevity was not the primary goal. Here in Hawaii, we get to fish all year round (ocean conditions permitting) so I will follow up if the strainer doesn't last too long. I do think that even if the stainless is a poor grade, my boat is kept on a trailer and gets a good wash down after every trip so it should still last a long time.

posted 05-18-2004 11:33 PM ET (US)            

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I use alota of silicone...clear....boatlife specifically.

on rare ocassions I will use 5200 in black or white...

and even rarer,,I will use 101....this is if oil is present on the surfaces I am trying to bound....101 is recommended for sealing/bonding teak decks...{they are usually full of teak oil}

but I used just silicone..it is easy to cut if changes are neccessary later on