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Author Topic:   Motor Support for Trailering New 150 Sport
disneycaber posted 05-18-2004 07:01 AM ET (US)   Profile for disneycaber   Send Email to disneycaber  
Just took delivery of my new 150 Sport! Thanks to everyone who offered advice and answered my many questions.She's a dream come true!

As I suspected, the hilly terrain and bumpy roads where I live threw the 60HP 4 Stroke around way too much for my comfort. I know that I need to get a support bracket of some type. I've looked at all the catelogues and supplier web sites for the various options but they fail in their descriptions to give me the detail I need to choose the right one. Either that or I'm just missing it. My quandry is that my trailer is the new swing tongue, all bunker style. It has no rear roller. The square, horizontal bar under the transom has a three lense light fixture and a single verticle hole centered. All the products seem to be designed to utilize the non existant center roller. I also don't want to remove the light bar. How do I attach the bracket to the trailer? Do I need to somehow buy and install a roller? I can't see a bracket connection point with a light lense in the way. Can anyone suggest a solution or am I in fact missing something? One more thing, the engine movement is also being allowed by play in the steering linkage. The motor turns freely both ways just a few inches but the steering wheel doesn't move when it does. A bracket should take care of this but is the linkage play normal?

Thanks in advance.

jimh posted 05-18-2004 08:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If the steering allows several inches of play in the motor it sounds like it is rather loose. Perhaps you need to rig a line to secure the wheel so that it does not rotate. This should help prevent the motor from turning. When I tow my SPORT 15 on the highway, I run the bow mooring line back, pass it through the steering wheel with a loop around the edge, then tie it taut to a side rail. This locks the steering wheel in place and prevents the motor from turning

I would not install a roller just to rig to a motor support bracket. There must be some better method available off-the-shelf for attaching the end of the engine support bracket to the frame. Perhaps someone can suggest a different product/model support arm.

Moe posted 05-18-2004 08:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Congratulations on your new 150 Sport!

I use a Fulton Performance Products MBKRT motor support:

As you can see in the picture, at the boat end, you can use either a roller cradle, or a U-shaped piece of metal that goes underneath the rear crossbar of the trailer.

Here's the bracket on my 150 Sport EZLoader trailer:


A better look at the trailer end of the bracket follows. Note the pin that is pulled out to release that end. Also note that the support is telescopic (see where the outer tube slides on the inner tube). Also note where I brain-farted and almost drilled the hole for the U bracket on the back of the trailer crossmember instead of on the bottom.


Here's the soft V-cradle end the motor sits in, next. Note the slot in the outer tube where there are shock-absorbing pieces of foam compressed.


It is NOT normal for your motor to have that much side to side play. At the rear of the motor (the cowling release lever), there should be less than an inch of side to side movement. Maybe there's an adjustment for this on the Teleflex steering box. Hopefully someone with experience with them can chime in.


Moe posted 05-18-2004 08:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Jim, I understood that the motor is moving side to side without the steering wheel moving.

sportroyalwulf posted 05-18-2004 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for sportroyalwulf  Send Email to sportroyalwulf     
I have a 2003 with the EZ_Loader trailer. I have a no name transom saver that is similar to one sold by Cabela's. It is tubular and has a good deal of adjustment. With no back roller this unit has a bracket that I was able to mount to an existing hole in the trailer frame. I have had good luck with mine and it holds the motor very steady.

Moe posted 05-18-2004 05:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
I bought mine locally, but Boaters World has the Fulton support:



jimh posted 05-18-2004 10:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Yes--Any movement of the motor without the wheel moving means too much slop in the steering. On my hydraulic steering there is less than 0.25 inch of slop.
Milepost43 posted 05-18-2004 11:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Milepost43  Send Email to Milepost43
Just bought this "wedge" for the 225 on my new 220 Dauntless. Also, got the steering stabilizers. Both work great. Never did like having motor "tied" to the trailer.
skred posted 05-19-2004 08:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
Disneycaber, I had the same problem considering a support for my motor: the trailer lights were in the way. A friend suggested his "time-honored" solution: I have a 2 or 3-inch square piece of oak, about 15 inches long. I raise the motor enough to slip it between the bracket and motor, and lower the motor firmly onto it. The motor is normally centered, and I used a small bungee looped through the steering wheel to the console rail to keep the motor from moving left or right. Worked like a charm. If you're concerned about bouncing enough to lose the wooden block, you can use a simple ratchet tie-down rope from the motor to the trailer fram. I still use that oak piece on my 90 Honda/Dauntless 16, but the no-feedback steering keeps the motor where I point it, so no need for the bungee.
disneycaber posted 05-19-2004 09:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     
I'm learning that there are three schools of thought on motor stabilizing. The first is to use the trailer frame as a connecting point, the second is to add a device between the motor and the mounting bracket and the third is a device on the hydraulics of the power trim. So I guess I'm still a little confused. Once I solve the excess steering linkage movement problem (which is still a open issue that I need help on)I feel that the engine will continue to move too much. I also see opinions that BW transoms are more than capable of supporting a tilted motor while trailering without worry of damage.There also seems to be a convenience factor to be considered (a secondary consideration in my opinion).

Questions for Moe: (1)Have you seen any sign that the foam cushioning used in your support is wearing out? The West Marine web site has a product review feature on this item and one user reports premature failure of the foam shock absorption.
(2)On my trailer there is a single bolt in place through the horizontal bar and the rectangular black plastic piece that on your trailer looks to be held by two horizontal bolts. With a longer bolt do you think I could use the same for mounting the bracket you have ( if I end up going that route?)


Moe posted 05-19-2004 10:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
I wasn't aware West Marine carried that model, and was surprised at the price difference between them ($47) and BoatersWorld ($30).

I read the reviews, and here are my comments.

I agree the instructions are POOR. You'll note in my picture that it appears I have the tension set all the way up on "5" but that isn't the case. I had to guess at where the scale sticker went, and obviously guessed wrong. With no tension, it starts on "3" on the scale.

I haven't seen a decrease in the springiness of the cushions, but I only compress them a little with the down tilt switch. I could see them become permanently compressed if they were left over compressed, but if they're tightly compressed, they aren't going to give to absorb shocks. But I also take the support bracket off over winter to store the motor vertical, as well as loosen the bow and stern straps to take the tension off the boat.

I don't believe you should put the support bracket mount on the back side of the rear crossmember where the boat keel could hit it when loading. I almost did it that way until I realized the potential for damage. Here's how I did it (your lights are added to the drawing.

This gets it out of the way AND puts the bracket down lower from the transom.

Divedog posted 05-19-2004 10:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Divedog  Send Email to Divedog     
Thanks for your comments. I've been following this thread trying to decide the best way to go for my 170. I like the wedge idea. It's similar to what I used on the outdrive of my I/O Searay. I'm ordering one now.
CU FISHN posted 10-08-2007 10:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for CU FISHN  Send Email to CU FISHN     
I'm in the same boat as disneycaber. Well not really but I just bought a 150 Montauk with the Merc 4stroke 60. The BW dealer told me I didnt need an outboard support. The Merc manual states that the motor needs to be supported(not by the uplock). I contacted Merc to make a purchase and they refered me to EZ Swivel. My trailer like disneycaber does not have an aft roller and is outfitted with runing lights. I refuse to go with wood and without proper support. What did you decide on disneycaber?
jimh posted 10-09-2007 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
You are three years late with your question.

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