posted 05-19-2004 01:26 PM ET (US)        

On the way to the dealer I stopped by West Marine and picked up a Standard Horizon +Intrepid VHF with DSC ($40 mail-in rebate) with flush mount kit, three-foot Shakespeare antenna and rail antenna mount, and a 72 qt. Igloo marine cooler with free cushion (not as nice as the Whaler part but also $350 less). (Boy, this time I really thought that she was gonna kick me out!) I read the instructions for flush mounting the VHF and it said nothing about sealing the hole with any type of caulk. As a former sailor I was always taught that all holes should be well sealed to prevent getting water in the laminate. (Some sailboat repair books go as far as drilling oversize holes, filling them with epoxy and re-drilling the holes so that none of the laminate is exposed.)

Is it necessary to caulk around the area behind the radio’s faceplate or will this just gunk up my shinny new radio? If not, what type of sealant should be used? I had assumed that the radio would have some sort of gasket but I saw nothing like that one the box. Additionally, I plan to fashion a bracket for the cooler out of wood similar to the factory one that is mounted on the front of the console but, if I were to use the generic Igloo tie downs, I would have to drill into the sole. How do you properly seal holes in the sole and gunnels that are foam-injected so as not to get any moisture into the laminate? I have heard that the foam can absorb water over time. Is this correct?

posted 05-19-2004 01:48 PM ET (US)            

On the Igloo corners, I covered the bottom of them with 3M 4200 sealant, trying to get it so that when screwed down, a little would ooze out the edge. I then wiped that off with denatured alcohol. I don't count on the screws in the cockpit sole to have a lot of strength with no backer board underneath.

I only used two of the corners to keep the cooler from rocking in one direction, and the throwable cushion behind the cooler between it and the wall behind it to keep the cooler from rocking in the direction the tie-downs were pulling in.

I strongly advise getting the new factory 170 cooler mount that attaches to the console, rather than the cleats that mount to the floor, or using the Igloo corners.

posted 05-19-2004 01:55 PM ET (US)            

If you drill cooler mounting holes into the cockpit sole, be sure to line them up with the phenolic backing plates. Your owner's manual should have a diagram of backing locations, or you can download one at www.whalerparts.com . If I recall correctly, the recommended method is to drill and tap as if it were aluminum, then install stainless machine screws. I'd be sure to use enough 4200 on the screws and on the bottom of the cooler cleats to ensure that you get no water intrusion in the floor.

Two more hints I picked up along the way- if you use a jigsaw (aka sabresaw) for the radio cutout, use a blade with very small teeth and cover the fiberglass with masking tape to minimize gelcoat chipping. For holes, drill them with the proper bit, then use a larger bit to slightly countersink them; that prevents the screw from causing gelcoat chips (which can sometimes be surprisingly and distressingly large!) when you run it into the hole.

Good luck making your first hole. It took me two days to work up the nerve to drill and jigsaw the console for that radio!

posted 05-20-2004 09:28 AM ET (US)            

I agree with Bob (Marlin) above about 3M 4200 for sealant and adhesive, but I also want to go a little bit further with part of a question I sensed you were asking. (In fact I want to go a little bit further whether you were asking it or not.)

posted 05-20-2004 09:53 AM ET (US)            

You make an excellent point. I remember thinking about that when I installed my radio, but now I can't remember whether I did anything about it our not. I guess I'll have to pull the radio back out and check, darn it.

posted 05-20-2004 10:21 AM ET (US)            

It is the voice of experience (which is how I learn most things) - I ruined two FM radios before I realized what was happening. I had thru-mounted a VHF radio directly above the FM unit, the face seal didn't work as well as I thought it would, and I hadn't sealed off the raw edges of either opening. Water was entering behind the face plate of the VHF, migrating downward through the console laminate, and toasting the innards of the FM radio.

Sadder but wiser...

posted 05-20-2004 10:23 AM ET (US)            

Thanks for all your suggestions. I will keep them in mind when I attempt the installation, hopefully this weekend. I bought a tube of 3M 4200 at my local boating supplies store yesterday and will head for the hardware store today to buy blades, tape, etc.

On the subject of cutting tools, would an angle grinder with a cutting blade be better than a jigsaw? I agree that a high-speed tool will minimize chipping on the edges but the grinder is a frightening tool!

BTW: I took the boat out yesterday for the first time. What a rush! I was afraid that a thundershower might roll through but by the time we got to the ramp the sun was shinning and the sky was clear with a few high clouds. I was so exited that I almost forgot to call Boat US to activate my new insurance policy! Thankfully, I called them on my cell from the marina and they hooked me up right away.

I was hesitant at first since I haven’t driven a motorboat in like forever, but once I got the feel for the boat I was a lot more confident. We ran for a little over an over alternating speeds and not exceeding 3500 rpms like the book said. On the way back I eased her up to 4500 since we had passed the hour mark and it felt like we were flying! (Well, for an ex-sailor anyway.)

Overall, she performed like a champ, accelerating smoothly and getting on plane quickly. The ride was smooth even in the slight chop that was building as the wind picked up on our way back to the marina. I wasn’t sure how to trim the motor and kept it all the way down for most of the time (any advice?).

posted 05-20-2004 03:47 PM ET (US)            

The MotoTool has a very small foot print compared to a jig
saw, making it easier to use in confined places.

Be sure to compare radio location to where your knees are
when driving. I've got a buddy who had the dealer install
the radio and they put right where his knees are. You can't
hear it under way, and you bang your knees on it.

posted 05-21-2004 10:18 PM ET (US)            

The lower part of the console is very easy to cut through, as it is only 1/8 fiberglass. I was surprised by the addition of 1/2 plywood behind the 1/8 of fiberglass on the vertical section just above the cup holders.

By adjusting the depth of the dremel router tool cut, I made several passes to get through the material.

I mounted a Standard Horizon Eclipse+ by my right knee, just clear of the control. Two 6 in speakers near the bottom corners and the AMFM CD behind the cup holders.

posted 05-25-2004 11:56 AM ET (US)            

Thanks for all great input. I completed the project this weekend and everything went surprisingly smoothly. (Murphy says that a project like this normally involves sweat, blood, tears and cursing, not necessarily in that order.) I was meeting some friends for a cruise in the afternoon and completed the entire project in about 4 hours including a trip to the boat shop for supplies. I got so exited drilling holes that I went ahead and mounted my Garmin GPSMAP 76 to the console.

For some pictures of the boat and the installation go to:

http://photos.yahoo.com/iportalatin

I only had two problems: (1) Even though I masked off a large are of the console, I still scuffed the area under the installation with the back end of the jig saw’s “legs” (see close up of the VHF in the photos). I need to try buffing the area with rubbing compound but it doesn’t seem like it is going to come out. (2) I could not screw the antenna all the way down into the mount. I think I can screw it down some more but it is hard to get leverage on the antenna’s smooth base.

posted 05-26-2004 05:13 PM ET (US)            

I haven't had any problems with the location of the spare tire but I don't mind getting my feet wet. (Maybe I should since the water in the Potomac doesn't look that great. My wife will have nothing to do with it.) I guess that if you wanted to walk on the trailer it might be problem although it is pretty secure and it would be okay to walk on as long as you don't step on the bolts (Ouch!).

This is the location where the dealer mounted it. I talked them into throwing it in as a "freebie" because I've never understood why trailers are sold without spare tires. I wouldn't travel very far without a spare tire. The best thing about mounting the tire in that location is that it is protected from UV rays by the boat, which can deteriorate the rubber. Hope this helps.

posted 06-16-2004 12:31 PM ET (US)            

However, I must admit... Those Nantuckets sure look sweet and have plenty of space for goodies in the console... What about that new that 205 Eastport... Must resist two-fooitis... :-)