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Author Topic:   150 Sport Power
billsa posted 06-30-2004 09:03 AM ET (US)   Profile for billsa   Send Email to billsa  
I am looking at the 150 sport and considering power options
I have seen it rigged with either a 60 hp two cycle or a 60 hp four stoke. The dealer says that the 2 cycle is lighter and therefore should push the boat a little faster; the four storke is heavier but will be more economical and quieter. There is a substantial premium for the four stroke. Can anyone let me what your experience has been either way. Also how does the boat handle a 1-2 ft chop? Thanks
sportroyalwulf posted 06-30-2004 09:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for sportroyalwulf  Send Email to sportroyalwulf     
I have a 150 sport with a 60hp four stroke. I am very happy with the setup. Clean quiet and reliable. I can't really compare to the two stroke as I have not seen or been in one on the 150 sport. I have been it at least 2ft chop on lake michigan and am more than satisfied with the handling and stability. You do have to use some good sense in such situations. I have been in much stronger winds and waves on a large inland lake. On that day I had waves breaking over the bow. I felt much more comfortable in these conditions with the BW than previous experiences with similar sized tin can boats.
Legobusier posted 06-30-2004 11:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
After owning both two and four stroke engines, I don't think I'll ever go back to a two stroke. The four is sooooo much quieter and more smooth. Add to that the economy issue and it's well worth the $. You can hardly hear my Honda 90 running at idle - the tell tale stream hitting the water makes more noise than the engine.

(NOTE: I am comparing with older two strokes and have heard the newer ones are actually quite good)

tombro posted 06-30-2004 12:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     
I have the 2 stroke Merc, purchased on my 150 Sport last July. Runs quick, never had a 4 stroke, so can't compare. As far as seaworthiness, I run into the Atlantic around Sandy Hook, NJ, and often out of Manasquan Inlet. Have had it out in some good chop (try a busy day in the Point Pleasant Canal on a ripping ebb tide), and it handles it at least as well and probably better than most boats in its class. Always feel very safe in it.
One point about motor selection: I see a lot of people looking for what they can expect at WOT, which is something I very rarely do. I have always run all of my boats (this one included) in the comfort cruising range of 18-22 knots, as dictated by sea conditions. So, the matter of the size of the motor is moot, as long as it's powerful enough to 'loaf' a bit at cruise. The 60 2 stroke can do this on the 150, cruising 18 kts @ 3200 RPM by the GPS. This is with me, my wife and daughter aboard. The 4 stroke would be more economical, quiet and easy starting, I imagine, with a similar speed curve.
poker13 posted 06-30-2004 03:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for poker13    
I think I remember other forum members said another difference is the 2-stroke is carbed and the 4-stroke is fuel injected.
Moe posted 07-01-2004 09:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
One to two foot chop is a good day for our 150 Sport on Lake Erie. It's a little much to run wide-open on, but we can run about 80% throttle (4800 rpm) and not feel it at all. You have to start slowing down for 1-3'. By 2-4', if you don't slow down more, you're launching off any wave about 3' or larger, and depending on what part of the boat hits the following wave first, it can hit pretty hard, so we partially stand to allow our legs to absorb the impact.

We've been out in 3-5' twice, anchoring once in it for a little bottom fishing. 3-5' is wet and slow, and not a lot of fun, but we've never felt unsafe. Since small craft advisories are out at that point, we've decided it's just too much like work to go out in that.

The EFI is turn-key starting, no choke, no fast idle, with instant perfect idle, no stumbling when cold, and can idle all day, almost silently, without fouling plugs. With it, the four-stroke is getting us 35-40 miles per tank, according to the charts (we don't have a speedo or GPS yet). I believe the guys with the carbed two-strokes are getting 26-28 miles per tank.

The other reason for getting the four-stroke is that we'll have this boat a very long time, and were concerned that small inland lakes, particularly those that are drinking water aquifers, might one day outlaw outboards that aren't three-star rated, like has happened at Lake Tahoe. If you aren't going to be on small inland lake, this isn't an issue.

Hope this helps,
--
Moe


billsa posted 07-01-2004 10:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for billsa  Send Email to billsa     
Thank you for the timely responses, they have been helpful.
It seems that most folks that go with the four stroke seem more than satisfied with their choice. I have not done any boating for 15 years, and the four stroke outboards were pretty much unheard of back then. I have set up a demo with the dealer and he is going to take me out in both set ups so that I can see for myself. Thanks again for the help and if anybody has anything else to add it would be appreciated.
disneycaber posted 07-04-2004 02:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     
We've had our 150 Sport w/ 4 stroke 60hp for six weeks now. Yesterday we spent 6 hours on Long Lake in Maine. The conditions were 1' to 2' wind blown chop with the addition of mucho wake activity from loads of holiday boat traffic. I'll have to admit that while we never felt unsafe,the ride got a little rough at times. When we encounted the wakes of boats meeting from three directions at once when needed to throttle back to avoid going airborn. (it's the landings that get ya) No regrets on the 4 stroke either. It's quiet, no smoke or odors, no need to add oil to the gas and superb MPG. We still have gas in the tank after all day yesterday.
billsa posted 07-08-2004 10:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for billsa  Send Email to billsa     
Demo-ed both setups today and was impressed with the performance of each motor. One thing that a I did notice was that the when putting the four stroke into gear the engine made a noise (clunking) that I would not consider normal. The noise went away after a few seconds or when you applied the throttle. The salesman agreed that the noise was unusual and was going to have it checked out. Has anybody else ever experience/heard of this before?
Jarhead posted 07-08-2004 01:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jarhead  Send Email to Jarhead     
This probably isn't going to help you with a 60hp 4s but for what it's worth...

My '03 25hp 4s Mercury slips into gear as easy and quiet as you please but it's normal for my '03 115hp 4s Mercruy to clunk going into gear. A swift shift is recomended and helps with the clunk. However, the clunk is just that, a clunk. It lasts just as long enough for the gears to engage (perhaps a 1/2 second). What you discribed as lasting "for a few seconds or when you applied the throttle", isn't normal. Probably just needs a shift linkage adjustment.

Hope it works out Okay for ya. :)

Moe posted 07-08-2004 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
If the four-stroke had a stainless prop and the two-stroke didn't, you'd hear a harder clunk when it got in gear, and you may hear a rattle at low speeds. Stainless props are heavier and more prone to do this.

billsa posted 07-21-2004 07:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for billsa  Send Email to billsa     
Picked up our 150 sport this past weekend.
Went with the 60 hp efi four stroke; runs quiet, strong, and without any smoke. Very pleased with our choice.
Thanks to everyone for the sdvise.
I want to install a dive ladder on the transom and noticed in the wood placement diagram that came with the boat that there is no wood in the transom where I would like to install the ladder. Anybody have any advise, I am hesitant to just mount the ladder without a wood backer or tru-bolting.

Moe posted 07-21-2004 10:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
If you got a 2004 150 Sport, make sure your wood locating diagram is for the 2004. Whaler extended the wood in the transom out to take a swim ladder. Contact Whaler if that's the case.

Those with earlier 150 Sport models use various solutions.

Bob Wallace used a 2-step Armstrong dive ladder, short enough to store between the boarding steps on the transom, and through bolted the bracket in the transom.

Some have used the 170 swim platform with just screws into the transom, and had no problems. I wouldn't do that unless I could through bolt it. The problem is that there's no place outside the wood where you can through bolt. The boarding step starts just outside of the transom notch, and the gunwales curve in the corner where they meet the transom.

Another solution might be one of the hang-over the gunwale type ladders. However, most have 11" wide hooks that are too wide for the tops of the gunwales, causing them to lean backward. Garelick makes one with 7" hooks that fits the 150 Sport gunwales pretty well.

I'm either just going to use the motor anti-ventilation plate to climb aboard if needed, or might eventually get the 7" Garelick or mount a dive ladder just outboard and lower than the port side stern eye.

--
Moe

billsa posted 07-21-2004 10:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for billsa  Send Email to billsa     
I actually bought a 2003 (used); saved a considerable amount. The diagram is for the 03.
Bass Pro Shops sells a pontoon boat ladder that have narrower hooks that should fit the whaler.
The ladder is quite large and I am not excited about having it take up space in the boat.
I have used the cavatation plate on the outboard so far
and it works OK for myself my son and daughter, the wife has not tried it yet and we are going on keys vacation next week.
Moe posted 07-21-2004 11:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
From what I read, the pontoon ladder at BPS is designed to slip over 1" railing tubes and it does not have standoffs to keep it away from the side of the boat. I sure wouldn't trust the 7/8" railings on the 150 Sport to handle the weight of ladder and boarder.

For the 3 step 7" hook ladder, check out part number 387795 at West Marine or BoatUS.

The 28" long 2-step dive ladder that comes with clips for storing (on the transom for example) is 597320.

--
Moe

tombro posted 07-22-2004 08:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     
I have a dealer installed 170 platform on my 150 Sport. Gets very light use...and is fine thus far. I like it!
Moe posted 07-22-2004 10:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
I've considered that, Tom, but the only thing for the port side lag screws to go into, on a 2003 150 Sport, is fiberglas and foam. The curved inner corner seems like it would prevent through-bolting the top, or otherwise, I might consider that.

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/Transoms/170.jpg

I guess it might work for lighter people though. :-)

--
Moe

Bob S posted 07-27-2004 10:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bob S  Send Email to Bob S     
Moe, got some more pictures of that 150? What seat do you have in that???

Thanks
Bob

Moe posted 07-27-2004 11:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Bob,
There is but one seating configuration in a 150 Sport. That's a 66" wide thwart seat behind the console, and a 33" wide, hinged, removable seat on the side of it.

I've replaced the 13" Teleflex Ace plastic steering wheel with a 15" six-spoke stainless steering wheel,

Replaced the middle cupholder with a Ritchie F50 compass,

Added a Blue Sea ST fuse block under the console,

Added an electric horn on the front of the console,

Added an Icom 402S below the steering column with a 4' Digital brand model 528 antenna on the upper bimini frame,

Added a Garmin 178C color GPS/Fishfinder on the starboard side of the console. The Garmin NMEA output is wired to the Icom radio NMEA input for DSC calls,

Anchored a 50 qt Igloo ULTRA cooler behind the bow locker using Igloo "corner" braces on the forward side,

Use 4 Rubbermaid containers or a lidless Igloo 32 qt cooler under the forward seat,

Anchored a Thetford 735 Marine Porta-Potti behind the port side of the thwart seat,

Use the 50 qt Igloo ULTRA cooler behind the starboard side of the thwart seat,

Bungie an 11 qt Cool Bubbles bait bucket to the outboard motor wiring harness,

Added C.E. Smith stainless Rod Holders behind the thwart seat,

Here are some pictures of the added stuff:

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/Dash3.jpg

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/FactoryHorn.jpg

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/HornButton.jpg

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/RodHolders.jpg

Here's what we carry (not sure whether to use a 72qt or 50qt ULTRA cooler in the stern):

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/OurGear.txt

Besides all these things, Barb has just finished sewing a red "tent" that hangs from the bimini braces and encloses the Porta-Potti, as well as has room for changing clothes.

Moe posted 07-27-2004 11:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Almost forgot...

We initially had the dealer install a 2nd 6 gallon tank, mirror-image of the factory location.

We added a Mills mooring/towing cover,

http://www.engr.udayton.edu/staff/lriggins/Whaler/150MillsBow.jpg

AND I just installed the new 130/150 Sport inside the transom cleats, which required replacement of the stern eye U-bolts (no pictures).

--
Moe

Bob S posted 07-28-2004 10:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bob S  Send Email to Bob S     
Thanks Moe......you're busy!

Bob

DaveNJ posted 07-29-2004 07:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveNJ  Send Email to DaveNJ     
Wow Moe! You have a lot of $ put into your boat!
Nice job.

Dave

tombro posted 07-29-2004 08:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     
Better save some room for the captain and his 1st mate on that boat, Moe! ^_^
disneycaber posted 07-29-2004 05:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     
Hey Moe, I have the same Mills top on my 150 Sport. Do you have a plan for tying it down to the trailer for highway towing?
Moe posted 07-30-2004 06:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
The only part of the cover I tie to the trailer are the front four tiedown loops tied to the winch post. This makes the front center a little loose and it tends to lift up over the rub rail. The cover really needs a tiedown loop in the center, and I'll probably have one sewn on at the local shoe repair store. The rest of the cover stays down with just the bungi cords in the hooks, and the rear cords tied to the stern eyes.

--
Moe


Barney posted 07-31-2004 10:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Barney  Send Email to Barney     
Moe, What kind of tie down are you using? Jim
Moe posted 07-31-2004 11:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Jim, I just some 1/4" braided rope I had laying around. There are four nylon web loops across the front of the cover.

I run the rope through the center two loops with the ends of the rope running outboard from each one.

Then I run each end of the rope around the winch post, below the winch bracket, and back to the outboard web loop, where I tie it off with a couple of half-hitches.

I'll try to get some pictures once I get the cover back on today.

--
Moe

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