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Author Topic:   130 bow light
GeneNJ posted 09-01-2004 09:26 PM ET (US)   Profile for GeneNJ   Send Email to GeneNJ  
I tried to disassemble the light to get to the bulb but the assembly seems to be glued? to the boat. I have the two screws removed and cannot move the assembly by using reasonable force. Any suggestions before I take a putty knife blade to the task?
captbone posted 09-01-2004 10:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
I had a problem with the lights on my 130 sport also. I would remove the switch and check that first! Those switches are junk and rust on the inside and could be the reason for no bow light. I would take the 20 minutes to pull that switch apart and clean it. If it is not a problem now it will be in the future anyway. I was really pissed to see that BW used such cheap switches on a such an expensive boat. The switches are junk!
dittybag54 posted 09-01-2004 11:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
Gene; stop, don't pry anything? Is this a Sport 130? I assume it is, so you have a probably have a plastic light right? I think it is a Perko. You should only have to remove the one screw that faces aft. Then you gently pry the chrome plastic piece up. You then should see the red and green lense and if it looks like a one piece of round two color plastic then you likely have the same light as me. The two screws inside aft are mounting screws. The lense rotates! to remove it. Rotate it a 1/4 turn or so and see if it comes up. If you try to pry it it will break. Since I don't know for sure which light you have, move with caution as this might not fit your situation. I just took mine apart to figure out how to do it and it looked like you would pry at that little notch up front; you could a little I guess after rotating the lense. So many things look like they come apart one way and it turns out to be wrong. Hope this helps. The safest thing to do it it seems different is email me a picture of it or better yet I could do that to you. Let me know.

If yours looks different you could also call Whaler next week after Frances moves thru. Sure hope it misses that whole area as my family lives near the plant and in Orlando.


dittybag54 posted 09-02-2004 12:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
To be sure on this; what year boat? We will look the part number up. I am going to go ahead and take pics of the assembly just in case you want them.
dittybag54 posted 09-02-2004 01:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
Went on and checked numbers; Part number for combo nav light for 130 Sport looks to be the same, back to year 2000 model. Number is 906172. Have pictures to send if you want or need them. Just hated to think of the base being unsealed from the deck when it did not have to be.
dittybag54 posted 09-02-2004 01:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
Yep, me again for a record four in a row. Since don't know your model year, wanted to let you know that it does seem the light part number is different on the '04. Trying to do too much at once tonight.
bye bye
GeneNJ posted 09-02-2004 11:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for GeneNJ  Send Email to GeneNJ     
dittybag54: Thanks for all the help, the boat is a 2002 and I believe you have the same light. I'll go out and try your suggestions for rotating the lens, I didn't try that approach yesterday.
GeneNJ posted 09-02-2004 12:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for GeneNJ  Send Email to GeneNJ     
You guys are the best. Turned lens ccw to release it, what a cheap plastic setup for a bow light. Thanks dittybag, save me from a real disaster with a putty knife. After lifting the lens, the third screw is visable. Thanks captbone, the switch was the culprit but at least I know all about the bow light setup.
dittybag54 posted 09-02-2004 01:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
Good deal Gene, I was in a hurry last night trying to post before a putty knife incident. If mine goes out, I know now to check the switch first, which normally would not suspect.
Royboy posted 09-02-2004 04:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Royboy  Send Email to Royboy     
My 2000 Sport 13 had the same problem. Turned out to be the switch (after I broke the bow light and had to replace it with an identical CHEAP perko number for $15.). BW really missed the boat on the lighting; it's junk as far as I'm concerned. anyway, wish I had known of this site at the time, I could have avoided breaking my bow light.


GeneNJ posted 09-02-2004 05:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for GeneNJ  Send Email to GeneNJ     
Royboy; Welcome to the site, wealth of info and some strong personalities. As I expect this light will soon become useless, can you tell me where you purchased the replacement?
Royboy posted 09-04-2004 12:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for Royboy  Send Email to Royboy     
I bought it at West Marine but they had the same light at Boater's World too. And yes this is a great site.


Seattlerocket posted 09-08-2004 12:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for Seattlerocket  Send Email to Seattlerocket     
OK now I have one more question. I have a bow mount trolling mortor on my 2002 130 that blocks the starboard side and I would like to totaly remove the bow light and install a raised one to be leagal.

Any ideas? I have tried to remove it before and failed. with this new info I will try to remove it again to see what happens

HuronBob posted 09-08-2004 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for HuronBob  Send Email to HuronBob     

any chance of your posting pictures of your trolling motor mount for us to look at... I'm considering it on a 2004 130....



Seattlerocket posted 09-08-2004 01:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Seattlerocket  Send Email to Seattlerocket     
here ya go

photos of a bow mount trolling motor mounted on a 2002 130

HuronBob posted 09-11-2004 03:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for HuronBob  Send Email to HuronBob     
Seattle, thanks for posting the pictures...I appreciate it...


dittybag54 posted 09-28-2004 06:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for dittybag54  Send Email to dittybag54     
Just to clear things up about who makes the light on the Sport 130. It is not a Perko, as stated but is an Attwood. That makes perfect sense seeing as Brunswick owns them.
Don't know why I thought it was a Perko but in doing research today on LED lights discovered my mistake. Precedures for dealing with the lens remain the same.
Aucilla posted 08-12-2012 04:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Aucilla  Send Email to Aucilla     
My bulb just dissolved and the 2001 Sport 130 is showing some age. So, I am replacing the bow navigation light and the pole light, and the switch (which I've cleaned a couple time), and the 12 volt socket while I'm at it. Here is what I'm getting:

jimh posted 08-16-2012 08:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Those links will probably be dead links in a few months since they are on a for-sale website. Perhaps you can describe in a narrative what your solution was so that the information will be available in the future.
Aucilla posted 08-16-2012 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Aucilla  Send Email to Aucilla     
Sorry. I sort of botched that post.

For the 130 Sport, a 2001, I got the following parts which seem to match the original equipment fairly well. I am in the process of swapping things out. As for the bow light, which I am working on now, I will say that the replacement I got will require that you drill two new holes to afix it to the bow. But on mine, the footprint of the replacement light covers the old holes too.

I got an Attwood Three-Position Off/On/On Push/Pull Switch, a Marinco 12V Receptacle (Blk Plastic), an Attwood 2-Mile LED Articulating All-Round Light (replacing the "anchor light"), an Attwood Round Base for Straight Pole Light (replacement receptical for the anchor light), an to replace the bow navigation light I got an Attwood LED 1-Mile Deck Mount Navigation Bow Light currently for sale at

Aucilla posted 08-19-2012 11:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for Aucilla  Send Email to Aucilla     
The Attwood switch turned out to be a bust. The top panel, upon which the connectors are attached, is a cheap, thin plastic. I gave an obviously too-hard twist to the screw driver, but one that should have been just fine with a decent piece of gear, and the connector twisted right out. I ended up finding a Cole Hersee three-position push pull switch locally, and although it cost three times as much it is obviously much sturdier and is working fine.

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