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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Bow Light Moisture
|Author||Topic: Bow Light Moisture|
posted 09-21-2004 09:50 AM ET (US)
I have a 2003 170 Montauk, The bow light gets moisture in it and causes it not to work. I have to remove the two lens cap screws and give the bulb a simple turn to get it working again. Is there something I can do to prevent this from happening, of course this is always at night and it is only a matter of time before I drop one or both of the lens mounting screws into the bay.
posted 09-21-2004 12:54 PM ET (US)
I have had this a number of times and even sealed the enclosure with silicone to no avail. I just bought a little tube of 'bulb grease' from Walmart [auto dept] hopefully to remedy the situation.
posted 09-21-2004 05:18 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem on my 160 Dauntless with both the bow and stern light within 6 months of being new, and with minimal saltwater exposure.
I know grease specifically for electrical connectors is available, but I just cleaned up the contacts with a pencil eraser then wiped on a thin film of trailer bearing grease. Doubtless there's some good reason why I shouldn't have used that type of grease, but I've done it for years and never had a problem.
posted 09-22-2004 11:35 PM ET (US)
I have one bow light that always wigs out and have to twist it to make it work. I applied the dialectric lube and it actually got worse more often. I heard vaseline works, I guess next I will try KY or replace the unit. :)
|Knot at Work||
posted 09-27-2004 07:51 PM ET (US)
Same boat. I had to have it replaced already.
Waranty but a pain the ass
posted 09-27-2004 11:58 PM ET (US)
Moisture in my 130 Sport Perko light also; am longing for the day when LED's come to nav lights. I really like my trailer lights. Sidenote: Glad you fared so well Jeff but hate about all the base damage; was worried about everybody down there.
posted 09-28-2004 12:54 PM ET (US)
I use Vaseline. It's basically the same as dielectric grease and a lot cleaner. Bearing grease should work fine too, although it's more noticeable than clear Vaseline. Basically, you just want to provide a coating to prevent the metal from corroding. Silicone spray works too, but washes off easier.
Swellmonster - I know you were kidding, but I'll comment anyway. You wouldn't want to use KY since it's water based and would wash off easily.
Dittybag54 - LEDs have already come to nav lights. Check out Perko's website for examples. They're pricey, but I think worth it for a long-lasting boat like a Whaler.
posted 09-28-2004 04:12 PM ET (US)
Thanks ScottS; It seems I have not been paying close enough attention to the nav light world. For a Whaler, especially in salt water environs, LED's do make sense.
posted 09-28-2004 05:42 PM ET (US)
Well, I might have the moisture problem as others but in studying the Perko catalog have discovered the bow light on the 130 is an Attwood not a Perko. Could not find a horizontal mount LED bi-color in the Perko catalog nor any at all at Attwood site.
|Knot at Work||
posted 09-28-2004 09:38 PM ET (US)
posted 09-29-2004 09:54 PM ET (US)
I have those little perkos on my sailboat. I could never keep them working (bought it from a guy who sailed her in salt water). I finally replaced both of them, soldered the wire connections coming up to it and then liberally applied silicon grease over ALL the metal inside before inserting the bulb.
haven't had a problem for 3 years now.
Once the metal starts to corrode, you are screwed. There really is no way to stop it. Silicon paste (plumbers paste for o-rings) is the perfect stuff.
On my whaler, I replaced the perko - had same problems and its only ever been a fresh water boat. I put in the perko removable light on a 9" mast. That seems to work better and have had zero problems with it.
posted 10-01-2004 01:16 AM ET (US)
Vaseline is not the same as dielectric grease. From a
chemical standpoint, vaseline is petroleum based while
dielectric grease is silicone based. From a practical
stand point, Vaseline will migrate around in average
weather, and melt and run off in hot weather. Silicone
grease will stay put.
I've got a buddy who was working on an LED bowlight for his
|Thomas J Stevens||
posted 10-11-2004 07:53 AM ET (US)
On my 2003 170 the bow light appears not to have any moisture in it. The switch seems to have failed. It only stays in the middle position and when put in the third position with the top of the switch down, it will not stay down. It returns to the middle and bow and all around lights both do not work. Anyone heard of any trouble like this? I've used the lights all of two or three times over the 14 months I've had her. Anyway, beside this frustrating problem, I love my montauk!
posted 10-11-2004 08:04 AM ET (US)
Yep, the switch needs to be adjusted or pulled out a little. I've had the same problem. So has WT. He is the one that figured it out. See the thread on "170 Montauk, one year later". Jim
posted 10-15-2004 11:08 PM ET (US)
Good one! :)
As noted above, maybe a dab of silicone would work at the base?
No good 2 part led's worthy of a whaler yet.. I have searched too!
posted 10-16-2004 12:21 PM ET (US)
Does the Nantucket use the same bow light as the Montauck and are there water/corrosion problems with it as well? J
posted 10-18-2004 01:49 PM ET (US)
I took my non-functioning bow light apart last night and it was full of salt water and rust. One of the little ears that hold the lens in place was also broken off. The boat is under warrantee but I'd rather just go by a new cover. I see an Attwood brand mentioned. Anybody have a part number and/or source? The only markings on the light are: 308 A-16 2M.
posted 10-18-2004 02:11 PM ET (US)
Is this it?
Matches up with the Attwood website.
posted 10-18-2004 02:12 PM ET (US)
Should also say is it the Attwood "Pulsar" listed?
posted 10-18-2004 05:49 PM ET (US)
The Attwood 'Pulsar' looks different than what's on my Montauk. I e-mailed Whaler and they sent me back to my dealer. I'll give them a call too.
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