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Author Topic:   Raising console on Montauk
WT posted 02-09-2005 01:34 AM ET (US)   Profile for WT   Send Email to WT  
Has anyone raised their console on their Montauk 170?

If so, any recommendations?

whale tauk posted 02-09-2005 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for whale tauk  Send Email to whale tauk     
I'm watching this thread as I'm also interested. I'm pretty sure it's feasible, I'd just like to hear the details (like you). I think a few have done it on Outrages.

whale tauk

WT posted 02-09-2005 10:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
I know another Montauk 170 owner that would like to raise their console too. I find the steering wheel position uncomfortable (too low) while riding around in rough seas.

I'm taking my boat into the dealer next weekend, I'll ask if they have either lifted consoles or added tilt steering.

Perhaps another option is to install a larger console from different BW model?

erik selis posted 02-10-2005 03:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     

Great topic!!! I desperately want to raise my console in my 170 Montauk. I have been thinking of ways to do it but haven't had the time yet to really concentrate on the details. I am thinking of of a machined and welded aluminium frame with holes that match the existing holes in the console and deck. It would need to be at least 5 inches high and powder coated in the same color as the console. The corners could be bent with a large radius to match the console base. I just need to sit down, take some measurements and take (make) the time to make a drawing.

I'm very curious to other peoples ideas.


BTW, the console for the 180 Dauntless would be perfect for the 170 Montauk IMO

Chick da Barba posted 02-10-2005 07:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chick da Barba  Send Email to Chick da Barba     
I am in the early stages of "shopping" for a new Whaler to replace my 130 Sport. I want a center console boat so I can stand while operating to alleviate some of the back pain issues from sitting in the 130. The next logical step seems to be the 170 however the low console height is just not comfortable for someone who is 6'2" and does not have arms as long as a chimp. At every boat show since the 170's debut I have discussed this issue with Whaler factory reps who have admitted they were aware of customers complaints about the console height. This issue may be the "deal breaker" in purchasing this particular model. I don't particularly care to spend a lot of money on a new boat and then start taking it apart to make modifications.
Is Boston Whaler listening?????
mikeyairtime posted 02-10-2005 09:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
Look at my thread in Modifications/Performance titled "heat bending StarBoard" for my plan to raise my console. Basically a 6" starboard spacer bent to the shape of the bottom of the console attached to the deck with the origional mounting holes and then attached to the console with splice plates. The only real problem may be the length of the steering cable. Everything else seems long enough.
kingfish posted 02-10-2005 09:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Not familiar with the console on a Montauk 170, but I have raised the console of a Classic Montauk 4-1/2" (and raised the RPS 3") without having to extend any lines or cables. I moved the battery to the sole underneath the console floor, placed in a battery box anchored to the sole, then hinged the front of the console for easy access to it. I used solid teak blocks to raise both the console and the RPS. Changed the geometry way for the better on the Classic, but as I said, I'm just not familiar with the 170.


erik selis posted 02-10-2005 10:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Mikeyairtime, have you tried heat-bending the starboard yet?
I am also wondering how you would connect the console to the spacer-frame. If this frame uses the same holes to get attached to the deck wouldn't the console be resting on top of the spacer instead of sliding over the spacer? The attachment holes of the console are running horizontally and IMO the console needs to slide over the spacer-frame over a length of approx. 1-inch.(except at the helm section) I also think the bottom rim of the console needs to be supported so sliding over the spacer and attaching the screws may not be enough. At least that's how I see it. I'm not at home to check this on the boat so I could be totally wrong although that's the picture (in my mind) I have in front of me at this moment.

John, isn't the Classic Montauk console open at the front and the back near the deck? The new Montauk console is completely sealed off at the bottom so one would need something to go all the way around. Again, this is just my opinion.


mikeyairtime posted 02-10-2005 12:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
erik, the spacer would be made of 3/4 StarBoard and the console would sit on top of the spacer, not slide over it, and then 3 splice plates made of StarBoard (one all the way across the front and one all the way along each side)would bolt the console to the spacer on the inside of the console. Now if you were to unbolt the console from the splice plate and leave the splice plates connected to the StarBoard spacer the console would slide over them. Maybe that helps you see what I'm talking about in your minds eye. I spent hours pondering and staring at that center console, both inside and out, and that's what I came up with. I have yet to experiment with bending the StarBoard.
LHG posted 02-10-2005 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for LHG    
For me, the Montauk 170 console would be a deal-breaker for a 170 purchase. Regardless of a person's height, I believe it is too small ergonomically and in it's scale to the boat. It would make a great center console for a 150 model, which would also be a nice Whaler offering.

Currently, I think the Dauntless 18 console is Whaler's best looking, most traditional console, and the height and size are also perfect for a 170.

As a Boston Whaler console raising originator, I have looked at the 170 console design, and the raised area of the boat floor under it, and don't think it can be raised very easily, or in good design, except perhaps by someone skilled in fiberglass fabrication AND design. I also think it would need to come up about a foot for proper scale. It's that small, and that makes a homemade fabrication even more difficult!

If I were a 170 owner, I would remove the console and sell it, probably here or on E-bay. As I said, it could have a nice application in a 150, or even an older customized 15. I would then buy from the factory either a CPD standard Guardian console, a Classic Montauk console, which could be raised on teak or mahogany blocking, or a Dauntless 18 console. The net cost might be reasonable. In either case, a 1 foot longer steering cable is probably going to be needed.

BW should offer the Dauntless 18 console in the boat as a "Super console" option, like they used to do on the 22 and 25 Outrages.

Chick da Barba posted 02-10-2005 02:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chick da Barba  Send Email to Chick da Barba     
Good post Larry! How do we Email this thread to Chuck Bennett at Whaler?
Goosedog posted 02-10-2005 05:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Goosedog    
Has anyone seriously investigated the possibility of replacing the factory 170 Montauk console with another Boston Whaler console, as LHG suggests? I would love to replace mine with the 180 Dauntless console - if possible, within reason, and not cost prohibitive.
WT posted 02-10-2005 05:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
From Boston Whaler customer service:

I'm afraid Whaler does not offer any taller consoles that will fit onto the
Montauk hull design...sorry.
The Montauk console fits perfectly over a raised section of the inner hull
(basically designed for that console).
I checked the 180 Dauntless console measurements and unfortunately, this
would have much to large of a footprint to fit securely onto the raised
All of the other consoles are actually larger than the 180 Dauntless...
The only other way (that I can think of) is to have a very good fiberglass
man build it up for you. That is the good thing about fiberglass...just
about anything can be done, it just depends on how much time and/or money
you have.

WT posted 02-10-2005 05:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
Sorry, here was the question to Boston Whaler:

I own a 2004 Montauk with a
90 hp 4 stroke. Does
Boston Whaler have any
recommendations as to
raising my existing console
or replacing it with
another BW console(180
Dauntless?)?. I find it
uncomfortable to steer in
rough waters because the
steering is quite low.

LHG posted 02-10-2005 06:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for LHG    
That answer makes no sense. They must think we're a bunch of dummies, with no design talent or ideas of our own. Why does any console, of any boat, have to be secured to a raised pad in the floor? That's not the way any previous Whaler console was mounted. Aluminum angles and teak blocking can easily solve that problem, as in the prior Montauk. Maybe it just costs a little more.
bw12 posted 02-10-2005 07:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for bw12    
I see three advantages to the raised portion, or "hump", molded into the deck.

1. It makes it easy to position the console during assembly.

2. The hump can help reinforce the lower lip of the console and thus simplify the construction.

3. The hump can also serve as the floor of the console, instead of using a separate bottom panel a la the classic Montauk. The integral floor would be much stronger and more durable.

The downside would be that larger "optional" consoles would not be able to take advantage of 1. and 2. However, they could still be adapted to the hull albeit at greater cost. Why doesn't Whaler offer the option and let the market decide if it's worth it? Maybe because this is inconsistent with the positioning of the Montauk 170 as Whaler's no frills entry level center console boat.

Moe posted 02-10-2005 07:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Larry, it makes sense if you look at the wood locating diagrams available on .

Unlike the 17 classic, where there were large sheets of plywood under the deck area around the console and cooler, in the 170 there is no plywood in the deck around the console to screw these blocks and angle into, only narrow strips of plywood standing on end behind the vertical faces of the raised portion. See for yourself:

Montauk 17

170 Montauk (2002)


LHG posted 02-10-2005 08:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for LHG    
I guess you guys are telling me they don't make'em like they used to, and that cost savings rule the day, at the expense of flexibility. I guess that's why the classics just won't die.
Moe posted 02-10-2005 11:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Actually, Larry, they are still making them like they used to, at, I'd guess, an even higher price now than they used to, for those who are willing to pay for the flexibility. You buy them from the CPD. But from what I see here, most folks who like them as they were, aren't willing to pay the price, and buy used. Those of us buying the newer, affordable Whalers are the ones keeping the marque alive.


erik selis posted 02-11-2005 03:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
I agree with you Moe.

Mikeyairtime, thanks for the explanation. Your idea should be feasible if you can get the starboard bent the way you want. Like all good ideas, the simple ones are the best.


Chick da Barba posted 02-11-2005 07:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chick da Barba  Send Email to Chick da Barba     
What about Whaler modifying the console mold to correct an obvious design mistake? At a minimum the height can be changed without modifying the footprint.
TexasWhaler posted 02-11-2005 09:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for TexasWhaler  Send Email to TexasWhaler     
If Boston Whaler(Brunswick) is smart, they've got people that lurk around this forum and take note of these ideas and discussions. There are a lot of good ideas being brought up here.
Moe posted 02-11-2005 10:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
TW, Whaler does monitor this forum, and they have made many changes in production in response to discussions here. For the 170, that's been stern cleats, backing for a kicker in the transom, and a couple of other items. OTOH, they've obviously chosen not to address others, such as more horsepower. Given that classic Whaler consoles have had to be raised for some owners over the years, I doubt this is one Whaler will respond to.

I'm no woodworker like some here, but if the 170 console height was too low for me, I'd build a four-sided box out of 3/4"-1" thick wood, with the dimensions such that I'd have to rabbit a notch on the inside of the box half the wood thickness in order to fit over the raised deck portion. At the top, I'd then rabbit a notch half the wood thickness on the outside for the console to fit over. The width of the wood used in the box would be the height I wanted to raise the console. Given the radiused corners, the box corners would also have to be radiused.


kingfish posted 02-11-2005 10:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
I recognize I'm intruding on the Post-Classic forum and I am admittedly not a Post-Classic owner, so please feelf ree to ignore my comments - my wife does that all the time...

I am trying to visualize the conditions being described regarding the console base for the Montauk 170, and I think I've got a pretty clear but not complete mental picture developed. I agree with Moe about the sort of box that might be built (BTW Moe, it's "rabbet"), but I think another thing worth mentioning is that I've found the space below the console floor of a raised Classic Montauk and Outrage console to be a handy place for all sorts of stuff; storage, etc. Is there a separate floor in the console for the Montauk 170? If so, then the current "dead space" volume would be increased by raising the console and thought might be given to accessing that space. If not, then access is already there, and there's just more of it, and never mind...


mikeyairtime posted 02-11-2005 11:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
The reason for the low console on a 170 is so it will fit in a garage. They won't change that.
TexasWhaler posted 02-11-2005 11:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for TexasWhaler  Send Email to TexasWhaler     
Can't you then put risers under the garage? ;-)
WT posted 02-11-2005 11:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
Perhaps another reason for the low console is for drivers to see over the console while in the seated position.
Moe posted 02-11-2005 11:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
You mean like this, WT?

Imagine this console and wheel 6-12" higher.

whale tauk posted 02-11-2005 11:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for whale tauk  Send Email to whale tauk     
I've used a plastic/high density foam material in 3/4 inch that may work for a "box" like Moe describes. It handles like wood in terms of cutting, drilling, tapping and planing but it's inert and it's white. I used some for car door speaker spacers and it seems fine when it's wet. It seems a bit heavier than teak, denser like oak. I'll round up the specifics of this material asap.
I've never considered myself that tall (6'1") but I feel TOO tall in the 170 almost all the time, especially when it's a bit rough.

whale tauk

TexasWhaler posted 02-11-2005 12:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for TexasWhaler  Send Email to TexasWhaler     
cool photo Moe!
Is that anyone we know?

Moe posted 02-11-2005 12:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
That's from Barney's website, TW.

Note the flipped version of the above picture on his web page header.

macfam posted 02-11-2005 02:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for macfam  Send Email to macfam     
I need to know how many people are using their 170 Montauks in their garage......
Moe posted 02-11-2005 02:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Did you actually mean "use" in the garage? ROTFL! I guess some of us snow and ice bound Whaler owners might admit to sneaking out there in the dead of winter, slipping behind the helm, and firing up the GPS in simulator mode, to get a fix. :-D


erik selis posted 02-11-2005 02:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
John, here are a couple of drawings that may make things clearer.

Raising the console with a frame or a box will automatically increase storage space under the console.


kingfish posted 02-11-2005 03:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Thanks Eric-

I think I get it now - there's apparently no "sub-floor" in that console.

Man, that's a nicely detailed set of drawings for the Montauk 170 console - way more than I ever saw for the classic consoles.


Moe posted 02-11-2005 03:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
John, if you look at the wood locating diagram, you can also see the plywood backing that the battery sits on in the raised portion of the cockpit sole:

I agree that these drawings are wonderful resources.


Goosedog posted 02-11-2005 05:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Goosedog    
If BW does change the design of the 170 console, it would be much appreciated by existing 170 owners (at least this one) if they also offered some type of bolt-on adapter kit to raise the pre-change consoles.
Moe posted 02-11-2005 09:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
I see money to be made here... for someone with the right tools and materials... and a 170 to tear apart, measure and fit, before Spring.


Jimm posted 02-15-2005 06:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
I've actually thought of selling my 170 because of the console height problem. I'm close to 6'3" and in rough water I just can't reach the throttle or wheel at a point where I'm "in control". Now if you're reading this Mister BW don't think -"oh he'll move up to a Nantucket and we'll have another sale". There's a new 184 McKee (also doesn't sink) with a larger console, larger fish box, twin bait tanks, more storage, raw water wash down and a few other goodies that's about 10K less than the Nantucket. Love the 170, but............
Chick da Barba posted 02-16-2005 02:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chick da Barba  Send Email to Chick da Barba     
There has been a lot of talk about raising the console but perhaps a simple fix might be to just raise the wheel and throttle a few inches. If you look at the 17' Edgewater wheel ( there is a close in shot of what appears to be an extended shaft and bezel behind the wheel. Perhaps a modification of this nature would take off the curse. Parts may be available from Teleflex. Also the throttle could be raised by installing a teak or starboard block beetween the console and bottom of the shifter. Sometimes a little can mean a lot. This may be the "KISS" method.
seasicknes posted 02-16-2005 02:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for seasicknes    
this will still make the 170 still fit the garage !
This is a good idea.


Moe posted 02-16-2005 02:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Would this work?


Chick da Barba posted 02-16-2005 04:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chick da Barba  Send Email to Chick da Barba     
Looks like it will work. It would have to be matched up against the factory installation to see the overall change.
The tilt option alone might be of some benefit.
mikeyairtime posted 02-17-2005 09:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
Boaters world sells a 22 degree helm kit that fits the steering on the 170. If you mount it upsidedown it makes the wheel more vertical raising the wheel about 2". I've got one on my 170 and I'd still like to raise the console.
WT posted 02-17-2005 09:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
mikeyairtime :

Any pictures of your steering setup?


Jimm posted 02-17-2005 09:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
Anyone know how much the stock steering cable can be stretched. I'd look but mine is under the covers.I think Moe's idea of the Starboard "riser" would work. Thanks
mikeyairtime posted 02-17-2005 12:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
No I'm not digital camera equiped. Go into Boaters world's catalog and find the 22 degree helm bezel. BTW when did the StarBoard riser become Moes idea?
andygere posted 02-17-2005 02:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
That helm is stock on the Dauntless 16 (at least it was in '99). Perhaps an owner of that model could take some measurements with the wheel tilted up vs. down and post here. Keep in mind, I think there are some differences in the consoles on the 170 Montauk vs. the Dauntless, so measurements need to be complete for this to be of any use.

By the way, the tilt helm is quite nice, and really makes stand-up driving of the Dauntless more pleasant. I'd take the measurements myself, but my dad's Dauntless is 3000 miles away, in winter storage. He's only 500 miles from it.

timsr posted 02-17-2005 07:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for timsr  Send Email to timsr     

Have looked in the Boater's World catalog but can't find that 22 degree helm kit. Can you provide a part number.


Jimm posted 02-17-2005 09:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
Sorry Mikey! " Give credit where credit is due."
mikeyairtime posted 02-18-2005 09:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for mikeyairtime    
Teleflex Bezel Kit 20 degree (sorry not 22) Catalog #358500080 $22.99 Save yourself a bunch of money. Once you have the wheel more vetical you'll never adjust it back. It makes the top of the wheel higher and keeps the bottom from hitting your thighs. You do have to run the bezel upsidedown which requires redrilling the three hole patern upsidedown but the bezel covers the holes so no one will ever know.
Jimm posted 02-18-2005 03:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
Got a thought that was alluded to prior in this thread. It will save me money and make some for BW. Why don't "they" make an optional console for the 170 which could be ordered with the boat or ordered to be retrofitted to previously purchased 170s. Of course all the extras would have to be included such as longer steering cables (if needed) and etc. C'mon Chuck throw us a bone, it's Friday afternoon!
WT posted 02-18-2005 04:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
I emailed Boston Whaler last week to see if their in-house boys would consider making 20 or so consoles for the Montauk 170 that are raised approximately 4 inches. Also wondering about the price involved.

I'll keep everyone posted.


Backlash posted 02-18-2005 06:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     
Another option for raising the wheel is to replace the standard wheel with a larger one. If the standard wheel is 15" dia., replace with a 18" dia. wheel which would raise it 1-1/2". Don't know if that would help or not.
Marlin posted 02-18-2005 08:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
Andy, your wish is my command. I got down to my 160 Dauntless to check up on things today, and took a bunch of photos and measurements.

To my eye, this console (a 2003 160 Dauntless) looks identical to the 170 Montauk console, though the layout of the ignition and kill switch differs. Maybe some 170 owner out there can take some measurements of their console and see if it matches mine. Interestingly, my layout is different from that pictured for the 160 Dauntless in the 2001 and 2002 catalogs, though those may be early or even pre-production models. If I recall correctly, their layout is the same as the 170 Montauk.


Moe posted 02-18-2005 09:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Those are great, Bob. Thanks!


Jimm posted 02-18-2005 11:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
Backlash, that's a good idea as previously mentioned but my problem is also the throttle (run on sentence coming) in which regard the higher console (let's make it 5 or 6 inches higher, Warren) would solve. Whew!...Jim
Jimm posted 02-18-2005 11:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jimm  Send Email to Jimm     
PS: does anyone know if the consoles come from in house or an outside supplier?
erik selis posted 02-20-2005 04:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Bob, as soon as it stops snowing, I'll take off the cover and take some measurements of my 170 console. Hopefully this afternoon.
Thanks for the pictures, your drawing and taking the time to post this information.


Marlin posted 02-20-2005 10:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     

Those dimensions are all in an archaic unit of measure called "inches". With a little bit of study at a library with a good ancient history section, you'll probably be able to figure out how to turn them into something useful like centimeters. ;-)


kamie posted 02-20-2005 01:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for kamie  Send Email to kamie     
here is a potential place to purchase BW Consoles assuming you don't want to pay BW price for new.

I am keeping an eye on this thread because I would love to raise the console on my 18 but with the t-top that is a non option. I like the tilt steering and might investigate that later this year.

Marlin posted 02-21-2005 03:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
The Teleflex tilt-steering that Moe linked to above does appear to be the part that's used on the 160 Dauntless. I'll see if my owner's manual paperwork has any specific information. I checked the diagram and parts list on , but it only lists a BW part number that's not of any particular use to compare to aftermarket parts.

The info confirms what SteveFC said in ; the 160 Dauntless and 170 Montauk have the same part number for their center consoles (22-J871-00).


Moe posted 02-21-2005 05:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Is the 160/170 steering the Safe-T-II (3 turns lock to lock)

or the NFB 4.2 (4.2 turns lock to lock)

They appear to use the same tilt mechanism but different rotary drives.

Marlin posted 02-21-2005 09:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     

The paperwork that came with the boat includes two sheets from Teleflex. One is the instructions for "SH 915XX Series Performance Tilt System, Tilt Mechanism, 91500 Tapered, 91510 Splined", the other is for "SH 915XX Series Performance Tilt System, No Feedback Helm, SH91526 Single, SH91527 Dual".

The helm part numbers match the NFB 4.2 data sheet, which also says that it's a tapered shaft. Consequently, the specific parts in use for a 2003 160 Dauntless would seem to be:

Tilt Mechanism SH91500
No Feedback Helm SH91529

By the way, congratulations to you for finding anything on the Teleflex web site, I'm not able to find anything of use.


Moe posted 02-21-2005 10:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
That would indicate the URL to Go2Marine is for the wrong helm... at least for the 160 Dauntless. At 3 turns lock to lock, it would have less leverage to turn the motor as easily, and would turn quicker when it did.


Box_Of_Rain posted 02-12-2007 11:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Box_Of_Rain  Send Email to Box_Of_Rain     
Has anyone figured out an easy way to raise steering wheel on a Montauk, this email string is from 05' but I need to do this now...thanks

? tilt steering or

fishinchips posted 02-15-2010 01:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for fishinchips  Send Email to fishinchips     
any done it yet?


imko posted 02-17-2010 02:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for imko  Send Email to imko     

and the bow rail¤t=DSCF0535.jpg

Waccamaw Whaler posted 02-17-2010 09:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Waccamaw Whaler  Send Email to Waccamaw Whaler     
I have a 1993 17' Outrage which I suspect may have a higher console than that being discussed here. I'm 5'9" and love the console height when I'm standing, which I do most of the time. However, when I'm sitting it's too high for me to see comfortably. So, is the RPS too low or the console too high?

The point made above about the boat not fitting in the garage, because the console is too high, has been a problem for me. While I don't store the boat in the garage I do work on it inside when it'stoo cold outside. I have a standard height garage door opening and have had to remove the SS console rail and windscreen along with unbolting the console from the deck and tiping it to get it into the garage.

I currently have some clean up work to do on the hull and I'm going to see if I can get it into the garage without tipping the console. I'm hopeful that if I remove the SS rail, windscreen, then lower the jack, remove everything from on top of the console and possibly let a little air out of the tires I'll make it. It's a pain!

high sierra posted 02-17-2010 10:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for high sierra  Send Email to high sierra     
I raised the console in my 170 4 years ago. I raised it 4 inches. Much more comfortable to drive. Warren it was at the rendezvous 3 or so years ago. high sierra
Chuck Tribolet posted 02-17-2010 10:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet current=DSCF0536.jpg current=DSCF0535.jpg


Chuck Tribolet posted 02-17-2010 10:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Waccamaw Whaler: Since it's OK standing up, the seat's too low.
And I think your problems getting in might be your trailer, not
your boat.


Waccamaw Whaler posted 02-18-2010 12:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Waccamaw Whaler  Send Email to Waccamaw Whaler     
Chuck that's a good thought but it would mean redrilling most of the galvanized support brackets. I also have concern about the amount of space between the trailer cross members and the bottom of the boat. I see the increased potential for gelcoat damage. The boat nests very nicely on the trailer now but I'm going to take a look and see what might be involved vs. benefits or it would even give me enough room. New%20Photos%20040608/Port-Front.jpg

Phil T posted 02-18-2010 07:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Phil T  Send Email to Phil T     
Ron -

The Outrage 17 I console is noticeably taller than the classic Montauk with the addition of the electronics box.

I too find the Montauk and Outrage RPS too low (I'm 6'2"). For my Montauk, I raised the RPS 6" using composite lumber. This will be too high for you and suggest 4 inches given your height.

As for the garage door, I suggest you consider a different ball mount. They sell an adjustable unit that can be raised or lowered. Looks like this:

The video gives you the idea.

You could set it for trailering and when home, drop the trailer jack, drop the ball mount and then lower the tounge.

Hope this helps.

Waccamaw Whaler posted 02-18-2010 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Waccamaw Whaler  Send Email to Waccamaw Whaler     
Phil, my trailer hitch isn't the problem, I can easily take the trailer off the hitch and fairly easily push it by hand.
The problem is, since the console is in the center of the boat, the console doesn't get much lower when I lower the trailer tongue.

When I get it home again I'm going to see if I can push it into the garage if I let the tongue drag on the driveway - after I wrap it with something to give it a little protection. If I can get it low enough so all I have to remove is the console rail & windscreen I'll be content.


kidishi posted 02-18-2010 11:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for kidishi  Send Email to kidishi     
Maybe it wont be enough but have you tried letting air out of the tires on the trailer? you can easily get a couple inches out of them and still have them roll...


Jefecinco posted 02-19-2010 10:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Slip the leading edge of a dolly under the hitch.


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