Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
What are these clamps called?
|Author||Topic: What are these clamps called?|
posted 02-22-2005 05:26 PM ET (US)
While I had my batteries out on my 23 Conquest over the weekend, I looked around the battery shelf to see why there are rust stains under the battery. Found the rust coming from the clamps holding down the remote oil tank. The clamps were rusted very badly.
I spent yesterday and today looking for a better replacement but came up empty. Tried OSH, Lowe's, and West Marine. None of these places ever saw this type of clamp. Before I try to fabricate something with starboard, anyone know what these types of clamps are called and perhaps where to by some better ones? Preferably make of stainless steel.
Here's a picture of the remote oil tank I have. You can see the braket is held down by these two clamps.
posted 02-22-2005 06:03 PM ET (US)
Those little clamps are perhaps the cheapest, most poorly designed Mercury part I've ever seen. Mine completely rotted away, along with most of the screws used to mount them. I threw away the entire thing and fabricated a new tank mount for my Outrage Cuddy out of teak. Your best bet may be to fabricate some replacements out of Starboard or a simlar plastic, or have a place like Tap Plastics make them for you. Alternatively, a metal working or machine shop might be able to make some replacements out of stainless steel, but it would probably be expensive.
posted 02-23-2005 08:13 AM ET (US)
Why not just use a 1" wide nylon battery box strap as used on the classic Whaler battery boxes? That's what I use on my boat and it works fine - the buckle on the strap and the footmans loops are SS so there's nothing to rust or corrode.
Here's a link showing the strap on my vro tank:
The strap is kind of hard to see...it's to the left of the oil tank fill cap.
posted 02-23-2005 06:05 PM ET (US)
If you want to do it right, take the wire cage that holds the tank to a welding shop and have them sand blast it to bare metal, then weld on a couple of small square mounting tabs. Drill holes in the tabs, then have the hole deal powdercoated. That way, you do away with the clamps completely. BillS
posted 02-23-2005 06:24 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the suggestions. At this point, I really don't want to invole any steel fabricators at this will cost big bucks. This tank is in the bilge so it doesn't have to be pretty. Just rustfree and the oil tank mounted securely.
The painted steel frame looks to be holding up just fine. I didn't detect any rust on that part. Only those clamps. Is it just a matter of time before the frame rust too?
For now I just make some replacement clamps using starboard. I have plenty of scrap pieces laying around in my garage.
Then during the next battery replacement moment, I'll take another look to see how things look down there.
posted 02-23-2005 06:36 PM ET (US)
On my Outrage 25, with twin Merc 200 EFI's, hence two oil tanks, I have nicely, cheaply and permanently solved this problem, with no teak, starboard or other homemade details.
Andy is right, it is Mercury's worst detail.
As you mention, the actual frame that holds the oil tank is good, and doesn't corrode. And the rubber bungee nicely holds the tank to it. What I did was to remove the rusted Mercury hold downs and screws, and filled these holes in the boat gelcoat with White Marine-Tex, polished up nicely. Then I went to the hardware store and bought the black plastic wire loop clamps, in the same diameter as the tank bracket frame, I think 1/4". These look like a capital "P" laying back on it's straight side, if you know what I mean. Ancor also makes these. A single screw fastens it down. I think I used about 6 of these, strategically positioned so the tank cradle can't move. Works like a charm, simple, cheap, and no more rust!
Mercury and Boston Whaler should be reading this
posted 02-24-2005 10:13 AM ET (US)
How about using an OMC tank and brackets? No rus problems
with that for me.
posted 02-24-2005 10:42 AM ET (US)
Andy did a great job on his teak rack (he sent me some pics). I replaced my rusted clamps with some that I made out of 1/2" King Starboard.
posted 02-24-2005 05:29 PM ET (US)
Try this site,
page 1343 , bottom
I replace my rusty MERC clamps with 6-8 of these(nylon)w/SS screws with great results a few years ago.
posted 02-24-2005 07:40 PM ET (US)
Ahh...loop straps. I happen to have some of those left over from my car alarm installation days. Got some time this weekend so will work on it.
The mounting location of these oil tanks in the 23 Conquest are a real pain. It was difficult enough getting a screw driver down there to remove the old rusty clamps. Adding up to 6 loop straps might be hard as I have to drill new pilot holes.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll let you all know how it goes.
posted 02-26-2005 07:52 AM ET (US)
just be sure the loop straps you use don't cause a high spot that rubs on the plastic tank. over time, with pounding and vibration, a high spot on the bracket will rub a hole through the plastic tank. Those clamps are probably soft enough metal that you can flatten them down a bit if this might be a problem. billS
posted 02-27-2005 07:26 PM ET (US)
This is a good idea! The Mercury oil tank bracket is cross welded from heavy dia steel wire, so that not all parts of the grid are the same height. If the plastic electrical loops clamps are attached to the lower ones, they will never contact the oil tank bottom.
posted 03-03-2005 01:48 AM ET (US)
Okay got the job done over the weekend. Tried those P shaped nylon loop clamps but didn't have the right size. Also couldn't get enough space to mount enough of them without removing my oil tanks.
So I fabricated clamps made of starboard scraps with the same dimensions. They worked out perfectly. Here's a picture of it.
posted 03-03-2005 02:32 AM ET (US)
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.