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Author Topic:   18 DAUNTLESS: Mounting Bow Trolling Motor
lurkynot posted 03-18-2005 11:33 PM ET (US)   Profile for lurkynot   Send Email to lurkynot  
I am about to mount an electric trolling motor to the bow of my 18 Dauntless. What does a typical section thru the phenolic backing board and deck stackup in that area look like? I would like to do this only once and right. Is there a best practice for drilling and tapping or self-tapping?
SteveGMP posted 03-19-2005 09:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for SteveGMP  Send Email to SteveGMP     
I added a trolling motor to the bow of my Dauntless. I mounted a Minn Kota 65PD, 24V. I used an aluminum bracket, plate stock, and then bolted the motor to the bracket. I used stainless steel 7/16 course thread cap screws with a small rubber washer, 3/8 thick, between the boat and the aluminum plate. The rubber washer helps with any small surface variations. I purchased a bottom tap, 7/16 x 13, but found that I had drilled all the way through the phenolic board. This has been very strong. Including an accidental opening of the trolling motor at planning speed. I modified my bow rail by adding two stainless steel flanged unions using high vacuum blank flanges; the flanges ae held together with very easily removable clamps. I also had to add the bow trolling motor electrical disconnect. I actually found some water in the bow after cutting into the bow space for wires.
lurkynot posted 03-20-2005 09:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for lurkynot  Send Email to lurkynot     
Thanks for the reply Steve. How far below the gelcoat is the bottom of the phenolic backer? How thick is that board in your estimate and what length fasteners should I use? Do you have any pictures of your bow rail mod? I have just had a hinged gate added to mine and will gladly forward those results. Thanks for the help.
timsr posted 03-20-2005 03:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for timsr  Send Email to timsr     
Steve is there anyway that you can post a couple of pictures on how you modified the bow rail. I am picking up a new Montauk 170 in a few weeks and want to do the same type of thing you describe with my bow ral.



jimh posted 03-20-2005 05:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I think Chuck Bennett at Boston Whaler Customer Service might be able to help with this.
SteveGMP posted 03-20-2005 06:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for SteveGMP  Send Email to SteveGMP     
I got some images from lurkynot, he added some hinges. It's pretty slick. I am sure he would send them along. He just swings away a short section of the rail. It may be that a middle support was added, I'am not sure about the 2001 bow rail. His set up looks pretty good. I could email you a description of the modification I made if you like.
lakeman posted 03-21-2005 06:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for lakeman  Send Email to lakeman     
I would like to see the pics as well could you post them to a pic link or e-mail them to me.

I have toyed with putting on a transom mount but that is a poor or last resort solution. I

I'm wondering, I have a 2000 Dautless, if we have Identical hulls I know they made some changes in later models but did they make some suttle changes in the 2001. The distance from the bow to water on mine would require the longest shaft they make.

JohnJ80 posted 03-27-2005 06:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
The backing material and position on the whaler bows varies even in a single production run.

You can call Whaler and get the backing wood/phenolic template for your boat based on serial number. I really recommend you do this if you want to avoid surprises.

On my Dauntless 15, there was great variance. in the beginning of the model production, there was much less material. Then the area of the material was greatly increased and was mahgony plywood. After that, it was changed to a phenolic material.

The phenolic is more difficult to work with, but you can drill and tap it and then just bolt it down. Ultimately, it gives a better mount.

I figured this all out when I mounted my trolling motor - it isn't as simple as it looks. Also spend some time positioning the motor - the round bow of the whaler makes it more difficult to mount the motor and have it out of the way. I had mine mounted and then remounted after fooling with it for a while.

Anyhow, you need to call them to get the map.


lurkynot posted 03-29-2005 07:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for lurkynot  Send Email to lurkynot     
Thanks John. Who did you call for this template. I would like to know because I have not yet drilled or tapped any holes. How did you know the actual material used? Did Whaler provide this with this template?
JohnJ80 posted 04-03-2005 03:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
I jus talked to Whaler customer service. Apparently it is a pretty common request.

The material and placement is tracked by boat Hull ID number (serial number) from the transom plate. The difference in material means that you use lag bolts (wood) or machine bolts and threaded hole (phenolic). The phenolic will not take lag bolts - it is just too hard.


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