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Author Topic:   Using a router on the console of the 170 Montauk
MickP posted 04-05-2005 06:28 PM ET (US)   Profile for MickP   Send Email to MickP  
Hello will be taking delivery of my new 170 Montauk in the next few weeks, I have bought a Icom 502 that I want to flush mount in the lower part of the console, I have made a template for the dimensions called for flush mounting the unit, question has anyone used a router with a template to cut out the hole, I know this leaves a precise job with a perfect fit, however I have never used a router on fiberglass any suggestions.
Thanks MickP
Maximus posted 04-05-2005 08:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Maximus  Send Email to Maximus     
It should work...

I used a dremel tool with a tile cutting bit. A dremel may be easier to handle than a router. For a flush mount, you have a good 1/4 inch of wiggle room for errors.

waterguy posted 04-05-2005 09:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for waterguy  Send Email to waterguy     
Dremel! It's smaller than a router and easier to use. You can control the speed and are less likely to slip, causing a nasty mistake.
AQUANUT posted 04-05-2005 10:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for AQUANUT  Send Email to AQUANUT     
I use die grinders and jig saws on a daily basis...duct tape with the line drawn on it instead of jel coat..I believe decreases the chance of chipping
justa boat rigger
high sierra posted 04-05-2005 11:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for high sierra  Send Email to high sierra     
Rotozip works great. Can be found at Sears and others. Like a small router and easier to handle. High Sierra
TBoroos posted 04-06-2005 02:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for TBoroos  Send Email to TBoroos     
I would reconsider mounting it down below, I did it. I can hardly read the digital display, have to bend way down to see it, a real pain in the you know what, not to mention dangerous. Tom
bsmotril posted 04-06-2005 03:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
I have used Routers, Dremels, and Rotozips to do this. Of the three, the Rotozip and Dremel are easiest to use because they are smaller and easier to handle. Most mounting fascias have a lip that overlaps the cut edge, so some roughness or jaggedness of the cut is hidden by the fascia. If that is NOT the case with yours, cut inside the line, and finish to the template line with a rasp, or sanding drum on a drill or dremel. BillS
MantyMonty posted 04-06-2005 03:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for MantyMonty  Send Email to MantyMonty     
I am switching out my Icom 502 with a Standard Horizon Phantom. The 502 was mounted below at knee level. Can't see the channel numbers there. It is easy to forget it turned on down there too, due to it being out of sight. (not that I ever did that twice!)I will be selling my Icom 502 as soon as I get it taken out of the boat. Hopefully next week I can remove it from storage. Otherwise, great radio. The cutout is getting covered by a 7x7 starboard electrical panel. I have the battery charger outlet, the bulkhead fitting for the VHF microphone/speaker and the power trim and tilt switch mounted on the panel. It turned out great. I needed a spot for all the stuff anyway, so I went with changing out the radio. I used a Makita die grinder type of tool, with a ceramic tile bit. It worked great.
Good Luck, have fun.
bsmotril posted 04-06-2005 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
If you are selling your VHF, there is a guy on the marketplace forum looking for one.
MickP posted 04-06-2005 06:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for MickP  Send Email to MickP     
I ran a test cut in 1/8th inch plexiglass using a 3/8" collar with a straight bit, I taped off the perimiter of the cut on the plexiglass to avoid chipout ran the router inside the template resulted in a perfect cut, hopes it works this well on fiberglass!!!!! :-)

Mick P

Backlash posted 04-07-2005 08:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     

I agree with others that a Roto-Zip or Dremel tool is the best choice for this application; however, if there is room to maneuver a full-size router, by all means use one - especially with a template.


John O posted 04-07-2005 09:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
The Dremel has a router attachment.
Chuck Tribolet posted 04-07-2005 08:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Dremel. Router is way too big. Never used a RotoZip, but
it's the same idea as the Dremel and should work.

MantyMonty is right. I have a buddy who has a Montauk 170
with Icom 501 mounted down there. Real hard to hear, harder
to see. I really think the SH Phantom is the right way to
go on a center console boat.


davej14 posted 04-07-2005 10:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for davej14  Send Email to davej14     
There is a jigsaw blade that cuts on the downstroke which would prevent chipouts on the top surface of the fiberglass. The dremel is the best solution however.
Swellmonster posted 04-07-2005 11:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Swellmonster  Send Email to Swellmonster     
Rotozip cut holes in my boat flawlessly!
Backlash posted 04-09-2005 09:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     
Like I said before...a full size router will work fine if there is room to maneuver it. My preference would be the Roto-Zip as it's smaller and easier to maneuver in tight spaces.


Chuck Tribolet posted 04-10-2005 03:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
BTW, the widget that turns a Dremel into a tiny router is
Dremel p/n 565. If you already have a Dremel, you may have
to look a bit to find one. If you are buying a Dremel, get
one that comes with it as part of a kit. It's a BUNCH cheaper
that way.


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