Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
|Author||Topic: Bottom Paint|
posted 04-13-2005 04:44 PM ET (US)
We are finaly getting close to retiring in the Florida Keys and buying a Montauk this fall. I have been pricing lifts, lift installation and the necessary dock work and finding them quite expensive. I am now considering painting the bottom of a new Montauk as an alternative. My questions to the experenced members of this forum are as follows:
1. How does bottom paint affect performance (speed at WOT, cruise, and gas mileage)?
2. I have been told bottom paint affects resale value. Would this be a big deal in a saltwater environment such as the Keys?
3. If I install a transom mount transducer, how will leaving the boat in the water affect its performance?
4. Are there other corrosion issues or issues to the boat I should consider?
5. If my plans are to leave the boat at the dock for 7-8 months, then put it on the trailer and possibly use it elsewhere the remaining 4-5 months, should I be considering using a special type of paint?
6. Finally, does anyone know when the new EFI versions of the 90 4-strokes will be available on Montauks?
posted 04-13-2005 05:48 PM ET (US)
I too have been contemplating doing the bottom paint thing. I am going to have my local marina apply a barrier coat (actually several coats) then the bottom paint (four coats-sprayed). It is going to be a teflon racing finish. They will sand between all coats, and the performance is actually the same if not better. The local sail club does this treatment. The manager of the service department stated the coating will last at least two years for me, seeing as I will be leaving it in my slip at my marina off of Lake Michigan. It will be trailerable with this coating. Mr. Bennett at Boston Whaler told me that I would definitely need a barrier coat to prevent osmotic blistering if I were to leave it in the water for any amount of time. This time span was explained to me as one week to infinity. The coating application by the marina is around 1150.00 plus a black boot stripe I requested. The manager also told me a recoat evry two years would cost roughly 260.00. I figure, I will have this boat for a long time, and I might as well enjoy it the way I want it, not as some prospective buyer might prefer it. It is much easier to clean with the teflon finish than without. I feel the same about car seat covers. Put them on after they are worn, not offering the next owner like new seats, when I had to use covers on them. There are a good number of owners who prefer a good grade of bottom paint on the boat, due to their future use of the craft also. It is much better than having osmotic blistering patches on the hull. I had it in the water last year for three weeks at a time without bottom paint, and it came clean as new, but was a lot of work. it is a hard decision, but you got to decide what you want and how long you are going to keep it and how much you want to clean it. I had no corrosion or anode wear but I keep it in fresh water. Good luck.
posted 04-13-2005 08:53 PM ET (US)
I retired last year and bought a Nantucket...keep her in a slip off the Potomac from April through December...you have to bottom paint her and there should be no differnece in price or performance if done correctly...There will be when you grow barnicles on her left unpainted hull and also performance!!!
Im in the Potomac and its Brackish water...the Keys will be even more salty! Paint her or pay to fix her later...if she comes out of the water everyday, then you dont have to...more than a few days and your playing with disaster!
Ive heard all that stupid stuff about resale value going down on a painted hull for Whalers too...but look at the prices of Whalers!! there not going down, there going up!even the used ones with paint on them!
I have a transom mount transducer on my Nantucket...wont effect her at all:)
Don't know about the engine...ask your dealer...
posted 04-13-2005 09:04 PM ET (US)
I am doing the same for my 98 Conquest 23 in SF. Here are things I'm considering:
Use an epoxy barrier coat. On Fiberglass Remove all surface contamination using a Fiberglass Surface Prep, flush with fresh water. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.
Mask about 2 inches above the waterline. You can get this by placing the boat in calm water for a couple of days to form a scum line. Apply enough barrier coat to reach a final Dry Film Thickness of 10 mils. This usually takes 4-5 coats but the amount of paint is more important than the number of coats. Andygere on this site suggest you feather to only 2 coats of epoxy barrier paint all the way to the masking so there is not a heavy step where the paint and fiberglass meet. This is what I plan to do.
Use an ablative antifoul bottom paint. If you plan on hauling the boat periodically, make sure you use one that can be hauled (Micron CSC comes to mind), but check with a local boat shop because in the Keys you will have to protect against barnacles as well as algae and weed. 2-3 coats are best if you plan on renewing every season or so. Your local boat shop will know what works best.
posted 04-13-2005 11:02 PM ET (US)
Here in the Great Lakes we like to keep our Whalers on their trailers, so we tend to avoid bottom painting them. In salt water areas it is more common.
I don't think it affects the speed much. It will affect the resale slightly if your buyer was someone who did not plan on needing bottom paint. It can always be removed.
SONAR transducers may need their own anti-fouling paint. A special formulation is generally recommended for them.
Your question about the effect of sitting out of the water for several months on the bottom paint is a good one. Perhaps an expert can answer it.
posted 04-14-2005 12:22 AM ET (US)
I wish I had the money back I spent on bottom paint.
I could literaly buy a new Montauk170 with it.
I owned a 47ft hatteras charter boat out of Whale Harbor in the florida keys back in the late 80's.
to have it hauled out and repainted every 2 years cost right at 20,000.
my point is if I could have not done it..I would have..if your boat will sit in the water more than 10 days..the marine growth will start to attach itself.It really gets a grip in a short time in the keys..especially in summer.
thats why offshore racing boats use it
posted 04-15-2005 10:24 AM ET (US)
If your going to use and ablative paint here's a trick use a different color for your first coat so that when you start to see this color you'll know it's time to repaint. Also go easy with the power washer you'll just blow the paint off the hull.
posted 04-16-2005 12:32 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone for your replies. I will definitely take your advice and do the bottom paint right.
We plan on buying our Montauk from the local dealer in the Keys, providing of course they give us a reasonable deal. I may have them do the bottom paint initially, then touch it up myself as needed.
Does anyone have experience with dealer applied bottom paint? I would hate to find blisters on the hull when I pull the boat, because the barrier was not applied properly.
posted 04-16-2005 01:34 PM ET (US)
Depends on the dealer. Some, will just sand and prime the boat. I would specifically request an epoxy barrier coat (Interlux 2000 or equivalent). That's what I'm putting on my Conquest.
With the barrier coat, this is typically a 2 day job as you need 4-5 coats (10 mils total thickness) of the barrier for it to be fully effective. The first coat of anti-foul should be put on while the last barrier coat application is still soft (holds your thumbprint, but doesn't lift off) to allow for proper bonding. It's temperature sensitive, so at 75 degrees that's between 5-7 hours after the last coat.
As you can see, the process needs to be timed.
Info on barrier coats can be found here:
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.